stray souls

fur fur Fall 2010

2010-03-29T10:33:00.003-04:00

Fur fur is always so lovely and so nice to see. Although I personally really liked the presentation from last season, it was obvious that it really put a lot of people off from actually seeing how good her individual pieces are so this season it's great to see them highlighted a bit. As usual, her construction is totally amazing; each piece looks like a dream within itself. The headpieces are so adorable as well and are the icing on the tiered and gathered cake that is the entire collection. Her style is derivative without a doubt but she injects so much uniqueness and consistency within it that it becomes her own type of magic each time.

Comme des Garçons Fall 2010 Paris

2010-03-09T19:26:00.005-05:00

It's been said a million times, but Rei is just beyond talented. She is, at this point, so flawless and masterful in her skill and still so whimsical in her approach. For clothes that so many are quick to deem as 'messy' or 'silly', they're really anything but. Her designs and the construction of them are executed with an almost mind-blowing level of expertise and precision; she just is so good at what it is she does. This season, through careful construction and seam placement on such overbearing, voluminous materials, she manages to create such a fluid effect within each piece. The silhouette of each piece is so poetically ambivalent, having a simultaneous effect of protection/comfort and at the same time, such precise definition. As always, I am thrilled to see her tartan print make an appearance and lastly, I am mildly (ok, very) obsessed with the footwear.

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2010 Paris

2010-03-09T19:00:00.001-05:00

Another constantly references her own past work, but this season was a full-on assault of early Demeulemeester goodness, and I love it. Undeniably and heavily drenched in a 1990's overtone, the collection is really tough and sexy but incredibly polished on the whole. True to form in the cycle of fashion, some of the elements here are so dated, that seeing them again after such a long absence, makes them look so fresh and appealing all over again. The accessories... just wow. No one can work a rooster feather like Ann (why does that sound dirty?) and the braided harnesses, necklaces and those gloves are infinitely appealing. Overall, I think this is such a successful revamp of early Ann and goes above and beyond with all of the newer elements she's managed to marry it with.

accessories

2010-03-09T18:49:00.000-05:00

TAO Fall 2010 Paris

2010-03-06T12:39:00.006-05:00

Tao is such a gem, not only within the CdG universe but in her own right entirely. Her style is very derivative, very Japanese but her signature design traits are so distinct that they speak so loudly, making her work instantly recognizable. In this collection, she does an amazing job at showcasing her unique abilities, such as the restrictive gathering, the skewed proportions and the unapologetic clash of colors, patterns and materials. Each piece of hers is so incredibly thoughtful and is a world of interest in and of itself and especially because of that, I am loving the runway styling; the heavy layering and general unusuality of the combinations just reinforce how powerful and fearless her vision is. I have such admiration and respect for her talent and always look forward to seeing what she'll grace us with, and couldn't be more thrilled by all of the beauty she's graced us with this season.

Junya Watanabe Fall 2010 Paris

2010-03-06T12:24:00.009-05:00

Highly reminiscent of his Fall 2006 showing, Junya delivers another military-inspired collection, which is packed with one of the things he does best: outerwear. While FW06 was much more aggressive and rougher around the edges, it seems Junya took a much more polished and less amplified approach. The pieces are practical but still embody a ton of interest due to his mind-blowing construction skills and overall detailing. Junya's talent for creating jackets which are simultaneously flattering, appealing and functional is uncanny and it's nice that it's the focal point of this season. In addition to the outerwear, the skirts can't go unmentioned, as the range of shapes and lengths is fantastic. Aside from the furry Ugg boots which are obviously not pictured here, and the Jersey Shore tans, I really enjoy this collection. It's not the most magical or outrageous presentation we've seen from him but there's no denying that the clothing is beautiful and impressive, as always.

Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2010 Paris

2010-03-06T12:19:00.009-05:00

Thankfully, this is not in the same vein as his Spring offering, which - and this pains me to say as a Yohji worshipper - was just not amazing. It wasn't BAD, but it was the first season I wouldn't sacrifice a limb to own most of. This season he is definitely back to his old self, without having actually returned to anything too familiar; it's quintessential Yohji... but at the same time has fresh techniques, proportions and the air of simplicity and confidence that we've come to expect from him. The pleating is amazing and I just adore the subtle deconstruction and the asymmetrical ease of it all.

Haider Ackermann Fall 2010 Paris

2010-03-06T12:19:00.008-05:00

Haider Ackermann is just good... no bones about it. His vision is so distinct and his technique has evolved into something that can only be described as masterful. Instead of trend-hopping or going through an obvious metamorphosis each season, as I've said about a million times before, I much prefer designers who slowly nurture and progress upon their own special and unique vision and who could be a better example at this point of this than Haider? He is just spot on, from the cuts themselves to the level of intricacy that the collection descends into. I mean, lace effect laser-cut leather? It's just too beautiful for words. Everything here is simply so thoughtful, so impressive and exceeds all expectations without throwing us for a loop. In the end, these are empowering clothes women will want to wear and feel amazing in, which is what it's all about.

2010-03-05T12:11:00.007-05:00

I was looking back through some of Richard Serra's sculptures recently and noticed immediately that they reminded me of something I'd seen since the last time I'd looked... the bracelets from Rick Owens S/S 10 collection. They are nearly identical in shape and structure to Serra's works, particularly the one pictured above. I can't be positive that Rick intentionally derived inspiration from Serra but if so, I definitely think he did well at translating and conveying the structures into a wearable medium. And if not, it's an interesting and striking comparison, none the less.

Rick Owens Fall 2010 Paris

2010-03-04T14:34:00.004-05:00

My favorite kind of Rick is the old school, pre-Paris Rick, when his work was very raw and unapologetic... so, needless to say, I am loving this collection. It's so fun to see him make a dive back into his old graphic, severe style that gained him so much notoriety initially. This collection's look is so primal; like lemur priestesses, who would also kick your ass in a dark alley. I could do without the tights and some other things but I appreciate them because it reinforces the shameless confidence that the collection gives off as a whole. The fur pieces are nothing short of gorgeous and I really like the effect of the adorned pieces as well... and it pretty much goes without saying that the outerwear he shows here is, always has been and always will be amazing.

Sharon Wauchob Fall 2010 Paris

2010-03-04T14:33:00.002-05:00

For some reason I am surprised by this collection, despite the fact that there's nothing relatively new here as far as Sharon is concerned. I guess it just feels really fresh and current, meanwhile tying in all of the sensibilities and distinct talent that she always encompasses. She's really pulled out all the stops, technique-wise, but keeps the collection as a whole very concise and cohesive. The color story is simply beautiful; rich, earthy tones paired with the severe black. The construction on everything is really just impeccable, from the structured outerwear to the intricate workings such as the weaved leather. Overall just a really great collection for the moment, perfectly executed with wit and plenty of integrity.

Dries Van Noten Fall 2010 Paris

2010-03-03T14:57:00.006-05:00

While Dries is a master at mixing prints, combining unusual patterns and materials, all the while accomplishing it in such an effortless manner - what I really love is when he strips down to his basics like this, which he hasn't done in quite a few years. Sometimes I feel the busyness of his recent collections really overshadowed the core of what makes him just so good; it's the proportions, the ease, the deceptively simple pieces... all of which are cut to absolute perfection and topped off with the perfect detailing accessories and styling. To say I'd love to own and wear most of this is a total understatement... it's just gorgeous.

Limi Feu Fall 2010 Paris

2010-03-03T13:38:00.002-05:00

Definitely one of my favorite collections from Limi since she transitioned to Paris a couple of years back, it is filled with masterful, playful, feminine yet severe and just plain covetable pieces. It's hard to ignore the Ann Demeulemeester influence on many of the looks, even down to the styling and similar hats... perhaps a homage of sorts? I'm not sure the intention, but the result is total perfection. Limi's style is always progressing and adapting but her voice is always so strong no matter the theme she's after. The feminine touch that she breathes into the bold silhouettes she cuts, always strikes such an admirable balance, creating an air of simultaneous severity and ease.

Txell Miras Fall 2010 London

2010-03-03T10:42:00.010-05:00

I was happy to learn that Txell showed in London this season as part of a select group of designers and I thought her collection was lovely. It is definitely toned down and much more straightforward than her older work, and while I do miss the geometric overtones and plays on dimension that we have seen from her in the past, this is still obviously a really nice collection with a lot of great pieces, particularly the outerwear which looks fantastic. I love the styling as well here; the proportions are really interesting. Overall, I like it... though it lacks the distinction of her past works but look forward to see what direction she'll be taking in the future.

Antonio Marras Fall 2010 Milan

2010-03-03T00:14:00.011-05:00

A journey through textural landscapes, layer upon layer of luxe materials, embellishments and accessories, Marras' collection is definitely a favorite of the season thus far. His work always oozes such a rich sensibility but with so much depth and the right amount of a quirk factor that it is almost impossible not to covet his pieces and to be in awe of the overall styling and presence. The styling is just utter perfection; the contrast of fabrics, silhouettes and accessories are perfect enhancements to a beautiful collection.

Suzuki Takayuki exhibition

2010-02-14T13:53:00.001-05:00

My beloved Takayuki had a gorgeous exhibition recently in which he worked with Suibokuga artist, Shukoku Tsuchiya, and stylist Shinichi Mita, in creating these garment installations. The trio have reportedly been combining their talents under the group name of TENKI for a few months now. The theme of this particular installation was 'layers' and the artists worked together to combine different elements - the voluminous effect of clothing, incorporated with 2-dimensional art - to create garments that challenge, blur and works toward eliminating the divide that exists between clothing and art. Aside from the philosophy behind it all, it's simply stunning from a visual standpoint. I love the different showcases and concepts within the exhibition and I very much look forward to seeing what they be creating together in the future.

Marc Le Bihan Spring 2010

2010-02-14T12:59:00.000-05:00

From what we can see in these images from his website, Marc Le Bihan's latest collection looks absolutely beautiful, which is, of course, no surprise at all. The original showroom images had these awful peep toe shoes but I am glad newer ones surfaced with much better footwear. I always love his heavy styling of such dramatic pieces; the effect is a multi-proportional dream with so much dimension. One thing I always love about Bihan is that, after the initial impression of a great silhouette, there's so much more visual interest to explore within each look and beyond that, each piece. Would love to get a closer look and feel of these but even just from these images, this may be my favorite overall output of his in a couple seasons, if not years.

Ann D

2010-02-14T12:58:00.007-05:00

I've been breaking these in for a few weeks and I just love them. They are beautiful, but beyond that, they go so well with everything from jeans to dresses. Just thought I'd post this up for anyone who's considering getting these as they're just great and in addition to looks, they're so comfortable as well.

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ETA - OOps... I just went to publish/respond to some comments but I accidentally clicked Reject. and according to Google, there is no way to recover them. >_<
I sincerely appreciate and enjoy responding to comments here so I just wanted to say sorry if you don't see your comment published.

Lots of love to you all.

xoxo

Rest in peace, Alexander McQueen.

2010-02-11T13:55:00.013-05:00

As thousands of others have and will continue to, I just wanted to express a few words on the unfortunate passing of this genial human being. Attempting to put it into words may well be futile, but for the man who's presentations have moved me to tears, multiple times, I will try.

There are aesthetic geniuses, there are undeniable talents... basically, there are a lot of people out there who are good at at expressing their visions. However, it's so rare for someone to possess the ability to articulate it to an audience through an intense and successful visual translation, the way he could. So rare to be able to leave such an impact on the viewers, or in his case, the overall experience-r, because with McQueen, it was never just about making pretty clothes.

In an overwhelmingly superficial, catty and shallow industry, this man put on some of most heartfelt presentations that we have seen, and as of today, will ever see again. Some of them were disturbing, some were pristine, some outrageous and some too poetic and beautiful to put into words - but no matter their tone, they were always so unique, so powerful and so magical. He provided us unique experiences, installations and conveyed moods and visions that took us to another place in time, entirely, which is a talent far and above what most clothing designers can only dream to possess.

His collections before and particularly in the early 2000's were inexplicably gorgeous; the concepts were always different, bizarre and beautiful and afterward left such an impression on the viewer. I was personally moved to tears by a few of them, something which another designer has ever evoked in me before or since. Not to knock his work in the recent years, but the level of whimsicality was turned down and he seemed to gravitate toward a more futuristic and flashy approach. I wasn't sure why the evolution, but it was clear that while his visions shifted, his passion, volume and determination to articulate his vision never seemed to waiver.

While it's no secret that the most deeply creative people are often the most tormented, it is absolutely tragic when the world loses these special souls, who's creations touch so many lives. McQueen, like many, was probably filled with an inescapable darkness and terror, which can only be soothed by a few special people we are fortunate enough to cross paths with in life. Once those people are taken away from our lives, it can become impossible, and pointless, to continue the struggle of living.

On this sad day, as cliche as it is, I can only hope that he has finally found the peace that he deserves. His work will always live on, his presentations and vision will always remain unmatched and his legacy will continue to bless and haunt all who encounter his brilliant creations. May his soul finally be free.

in the depth of winter, i finally learned that within me there lay an invincible summer

2009-12-23T23:58:00.007-05:00

happy holidays to you all. may 2010 bring much peace and happiness to your lives.

xoxo

Ode to Saint Roversi

2009-12-19T23:38:00.003-05:00

Aski Kataski F/W 09.10 pieces

2009-12-19T03:40:00.003-05:00

Another one of my favorite 'newer' designers, Katsuhiro Makino, also has the great ability to produce pieces that are a world of intrigue on all their own. I am never really a fan of his lookbook images - not because the styling isn't great and not that the pieces don't always look covetable - it's just that they leave the viewer with only a vague 'feel' for his overall style... and not a chance to really admire his pieces for what they really are.

The organic feel, plus the celestial overall designs, it's really special. I adore his color palette and his craftsmanship; his pieces feel honest and have such a slight of hand quality that I'm so attracted to. They are not over-the-top at all or shocking aesthetically, but the amount of magic that lies within the materials, detailing, proportions - it's enough to leave one in awe. I hope that the brand will start seeing a surge in retail interest soon, much like I do with Takayuki's.

Suzuki Takayuki S/S 10 pieces

2009-12-19T02:54:00.008-05:00

Though the styling on his collections is always special and does a nice job of showcasing just how amazing his work looks layered upon itself, sometimes Takayuki's work is best admired in a solitary manner. He is a rare soul; it is few and far between when a designer comes along and has such an undeniable enchantment, dripping off of their every garment.

While I'm a huge fan of the element of protection within clothing, the vulnerability and delicate overtones in Takayuki's work are eternally endearing and comforting in their own right. The fabrics and techniques he employs are thoughtful on every level, yet emit such a dreamy ease. His pieces feel amazing on the skin and look gorgeous when layered... but the most special aspect is that even in their solitude, the garments tell their own eloquent story.

Anne Valérie Hash Haute Couture Spring 2004

2009-12-18T14:56:00.006-05:00

Much like the Kokosalaki post, this one is a testament to the genius AVH unveiled to us in the past. Her S/S 10 collection was pretty nice, but it's still such a far cry from the poetic, billowing yet restrictive clothing she's shown us in seasons such as this S/S 04 one. I mean, it's truly a dream; perfect silhouettes, brilliant textures, flawless proportions and the heavenly styling.

I always wonder if the switching of aesthetics and if the shifting down their overwhelming creativity is a conscious one or just a natural progression for the designer. I understand all too well the need to shed an old skin and move in a new direction, so perhaps it is trite to question the switch in a designer's output. Even if she never revisits this style, I guess I can only appreciate and be thankful to be able to look back upon the collections like this that she's graced us with.

creo en los fantasmas terribles, de algun extraño lugar

2009-12-18T13:05:00.002-05:00

limi, limi, acne, yohji

Sophia Kokosalaki Fall 2002

2009-11-03T00:01:00.001-05:00

Ms. Kokosalaki’s latest collections have left me cold. It’s not that they’re that bad, it’s just that this stuff was that good. Her old collections really captured me – they were so severe, so spot on. Her ubiquitous details, signature shapes, overlapping panels and and just the overall brilliance of her concepts… it was all so directional and unmistakable. I wish I could get my claws on a ton of her older work as the pieces are so unique and relatively timeless. The basic pieces are tailored perfectly and I love the proportions on them… and of course, the geometric dresses and tops are obviously to die for. Perhaps some day she’ll return to making stuff in this vein but if not, it’s always nice to reflect upon anyway.

sacai Spring 2010

2009-11-02T23:59:00.001-05:00

Chitose Abe gets better with each season that passes and it’s pretty exciting to see her signature techniques developing before our eyes. Her talent for de/reconstruction only grows more powerful as time goes on and I love how she is pulling it off with currently. The proportions, details and mix of materials are all so gorgeously odd; she’s combining unlikely patterns and fabrics and while the result isn’t subtle, it is not overbearing either; she’s got a lot of finesse for what it is that she does. Another thing I admire about her is how she seems to keep femininity a priority, by way of her precious detailing and fabrics, despite experimenting heavily with structure and silhouette.

The Dress & Co. Spring 2010

2009-11-02T23:58:00.002-05:00

The Dress & Co. Hideaki Sakaguchi this season is, true to form, a charming mix of outerwear and delicate fabrics. The muted colors are really attractive and just lovely for spring, as are the clothes themselves. I appreciate the effortless combination of superfluity and just the right amount of structure; the ruffle placement is really darling and the jackets have great proportions.

For more information on the designer, please visit his website.

Cruella x Rick Owens

2009-11-02T12:00:00.000-05:00

She immediately flung it off her head but it was fabulous for the moment.

fur fur Spring 2010

2009-10-22T23:55:00.003-04:00

Curiously underrated designer Aya Furuhashi delivers another outstanding collection this spring. I have to mention the presentation first because I think it is adorable; the infinite layers of scattered clothing, as the styling of the collection itself also infinitely layered. I worry though, that the heavy styling does her a disservice as far as most people finding it too busy-looking and therefore they don’t pay much attention to the clothing itself – which is a shame because her pieces are tremendously covetable.

Furuhashi’s immense talent for mixing different materials and textures together is really unique; she has knack for harnessing it all and making everything her own, no matter the theme or presentation. The whimsical silhouettes comprised of beautiful deconstruction, the unusual and beautiful accessories – it’s all so distinct and it’s a treasure to witness the progression of her techniques as each season passes.

Suzuki Takayuki Spring 2010

2009-10-22T23:55:00.002-04:00

If it wasn’t already wildly apparent that this man is pure genius, then hopefully after this collection, it will be. Looking at any one of his pieces always sends me into a string of amorous adjectives and this season is no different, in that regard. His work is so magnificent, aesthetically and beyond. Some brands just have a presence where you’re drawn in directly to the designer’s vision and in Takayuki’s case, that vision is one of utter enchantment.

I like the fact that there is a great counterbalance of structure this season, styled beautifully with the more ruffled and tiered pieces. The belted looks are really beyond fantastic and the silhouettes are insane. He uses primarily organic materials (he’s even got a separate line specializing in organic cotton) and I think the materials he so carefully chooses for his pieces really do them justice as far as providing the clothing with sort of animate qualities.

The cardigan I have by him is really something; though it looked beautiful online and I thought I knew what to expect, when I actually got it I was blown away by the amount of detailing and obvious thought and consideration that had gone into it. His pieces are incredibly detailed but have such an effortless feel overall, they’re a dream really. Anyway I’ll cut the worship short but as you may have guessed, I just adore this guy.

Haider Ackermann Spring 2010

2009-10-09T23:54:00.001-04:00

Haider is just delicious. Clearly one of the only designers who sees draping not as a trend, but as an art form, he is taking his aesthetic to amazing new heights as each season passes. As I always say, I am a total sucker for evolutionary, yet consistent designers. I don’t mind knowing what to expect from someone – in fact, I admire and often times prefer someone who can push themselves to the limit, slowly expanding upon a specific vision. The cheesy expression “like a fine wine” didn’t come of out nowhere, after all.

The silhouettes are stunning and I love the fit of everything. He knows so well how to dress a woman, how to take advantage of her form, curves and allure and how to enhance them brilliantly. The contradictions within his work are really beautiful to me – the hard and the soft, the structured and the fluid, the revealing and the mysterious. So much complexity and thoughtfulness yet the result is so pure. I also like the details in this collection a lot; the unusual overlapping of fabric, the exaggerated and uniquely placed pockets, etc. Basically everything is really nicely done and couldn’t be more attractive, distinguished or divine.

Vanessa Bruno Spring 2010

2009-10-09T23:53:00.001-04:00

Though SS10 wasn’t a ground-breaking season overall, it’s the individual triumphs that will make it a memorable one to me. Such as Ms. Hash returning to form, for example, and let us add another one to the list because this is definitely one of my favorite Vanessa Bruno collections, not just in seasons, but in the last few years. I had really been losing interest with each collection but this one is a total turnaround, which is just fabulous because, well, she is in fact fabulous.

I find the color palette so beautiful, I love these muted tones paired with the crisp white and structured black. There are countless covetable pieces throughout the collection and the styling of the show was perfection, really. She manages off-kilter cuts with finesse, such as the trousers pictured above which I’m in love with.

The accessories are so disarming and feminine and act as a beautiful compliment to the garments, rather than how most designers are leaning toward ultra-severe footwear and jewelry. So not only is this a beautiful collection but it’s definitely a breath of fresh air.

Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2010

2009-10-09T23:51:00.000-04:00

I don’t usually waste time writing about the things that I don’t like, but this surpasses the realm of dislike and is in full-on offensive territory. How little respect does Rosso and his new team have for not only MMM’s fan base but for the man himself? This is supposed to be an improvement on Margiela’s slow-crafted, precise and directional vision? Please.

How despicable that he reckons we are so stupid that he can wipe out Margiela’s essence and sell this gimmicky bullshit and have it be as successful. This is not Diesel, man. They didn’t even manage to get the silhouettes right, never mind all of the precision, grace and integrity that Margiela had. They should have just shut the house down when he stepped down; do we really need to witness another sad slaughtering of someone’s good name, à la Helmut Lang?

P.S. – while I’m ranting here: hey Gareth, please return to what made you so special in the first place. Don’t sell yourself short by becoming a bad gothic parody of Rick Owens. Still love you, though. <3

Comme des Garçons Spring 2010

2009-10-05T23:51:00.004-04:00

Two words: fucking perfect. After the incredibly tough act to follow that was her Autumn collection, she’s back with another magical one. It’s hard to really comment on everything or else I’d be here all day, but of course the patchwork is the standout technique here and she’s executed it so flawlessly, so admirably. Amidst the masterful deconstruction and patchworking, there are a ton of great basics and other covetable pieces, which truly make the collection a home run on the whole.

The dresses are beyond beautiful, the trousers are cut to perfection, the shoes are a dream; this collection really thrives in all aspects. I am most obsessed with the trenches. I adore beyond words how she substitutes severe fabrics for very ethereal ones within her structured garments. The idea alone of using these delicate fabrics on outerwear is so precious, and the finished products are almost heartbreakingly beautiful.

The craftsmanship that goes into Rei’s collections is no doubt amazing but what is most touching to me is how she manages to convey and depict so clearly her messages of nostalgia, sentimentality and guarded beauty… it’s really something special.

Undercover Spring 2010

2009-10-04T23:50:00.001-04:00

For me personally, Jun Takahashi’s sportswear collections are, albeit not as whimsical as some of his others, just as interesting as far as detail is concerned and even more so in their amazing functionality. Granted, one of the parkas from his FW07 collection is probably the most impressive garment I own in terms of its purposeful detailing, custom fabrics, numerous options for interchangeability. So I guess my fascination with that thing probably fuels my excitement toward his collections of this persuasion, but really his active/outerwear is just as thoughtful as any of his other types of pieces.

I love how he consistently cycles his collections, giving each of his aesthetics a season of it’s own to shine, instead of trying to over-diversify with a mix of everything in each one. It’s great not only that he has multiple styles, but for how one never suffers for or due to the other. Not to mention his menswear has been staggeringly good the past few seasons and I am loving how he’s created a cohesion in theme and color palette between the two lines.

This collection is current yet inventive and contains so many fantastic pieces. The progressive nature of his design works so well when he applies it toward function. Undercover’s aesthetic is so untainted, so devoid of trends and outside influence, yet manages to keep it exciting each season, while slowly reworking and refining the key pieces of the brand.This season’s simple presentation is really lovely with the sea of lights as the backdrop. If I had to pick something to replace it’d definitely be those clutches and bring back these bags instead. Otherwise… amazing pieces and proportions throughout, as always, and I am especially loving some of the jackets… which I’m sure are going to be to die for in person.

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2010

2009-10-03T23:49:00.001-04:00

I am loving Ann so much this season for implementing things that dreams are made of – zippers, straps, headpieces, facial bindings, etc… well, my dreams, anyway. Aside from the accessories, there is so much happening within the clothing alone, yet the effect seems effortless. The proportions are nothing short of amazing and the maxi skirts are too perfect. She’s worked with the leather so well here and though there is a lot of it, I don’t find it overwhelming at all. Her choice of a print as well as her use of white couldn’t have been better as they are the perfect contrast to the overall rigidity. Another great element are the jackets which are slightly overpowered by the presentation, but look completely amazing. Overall I really like the sexiness that it exudes while maintaining her usual integrity.

TAO Comme des Garçons Spring 2010

2009-10-03T23:48:00.004-04:00

Add another one on to the list of unexpectedness, but this one is most intriguing to me. As any long time TAO worshipper would be, I was sort of taken aback by the presentation alone. Not in a bad way, it is just so different than her usual runway vibe that it was a definite surprise. Looking beyond the styling, though, you can easily find a number of beautiful pieces and see the complex and inventive spirit that she is known for. There are a lot of nice basics as well as some really stand out pieces, which I’m sure the craftsmanship is amazing on, as always. The best parts for me this season are definitely the range of amazing textures, and of course… the boots.

Junya Watanabe Spring 2010

2009-10-03T23:48:00.003-04:00

A very straightforward collection from Junya this season, but that is not necessarily a bad thing. Practicality can still be exciting, especially when someone of his calibre is performing the task. The man can cut a jacket, that’s one thing we know for sure and this collection is filled with great ones in terms of their flawless structure and no doubt their function. I’m not wild about basic leggings, particularly worn as pants, but Junya is one of the only designers who manages to present them in a way that doesn’t turn me off entirely. It goes without saying that the headpieces are brilliant, but I’ll say it anyway and the shoes are divine as well.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2010

2009-10-03T23:47:00.001-04:00

While Limi asked “C’est un peu de Yohji Yamamoto?” on her SS10 invitations, perhaps it should have been done the other way around! This collection seems like some sort of unexpected homage to his daughter’s work, rather than his own. At any rate, it is sort of nice to see him do such an unexpected collection, though I find it strange in a time where sales are not so great. Interesting choice of detailing as well with the holes and peaked shoulders, which I can’t say I’m the biggest fan of. But overall there are some amazing pieces and I really love many of the proportions involved.

Bernhard Willhelm Spring 2010

2009-10-03T23:46:00.002-04:00

Willhelm is undoubtedly one of the best in the game at working with prints and volume, particularly simultaneously. Decidedly toned down, or perhaps matured from his seasons of the past, this is a really refined BW aesthetic but not devoid of any creativity or execution. His print work is so original and inspired and he always shows us things we’ve not seen before. The patterns he creates, whether by way of dyeing or his progressive knitwear, are truly something to be admired. It is sort of annoying that a lot of people write his stuff off as not being serious, because really, he is such an innovator whose ideas are filled with integrity and ingenuity – and his work totally crushes most others who try their hand in the same aesthetic.

Anne Valerie Hash Spring 2010

2009-10-03T23:45:00.001-04:00

Hands down one of the most pleasant surprises of the day, Ms. Hash is back and seriously on point! I am thrilled she made a return in the same vein as some of her past collections, and not just any of them… this is reminiscent of some of her best works, which is a dream come true to say the least. She’s such a distinct talent and it’s great to see her headed in this direction once again. She’s amazing at creating deceptively simple designs; they’re super practical but also really thoughtful in terms of construction and materials. The only thing I could do without would obviously be the sneakers but they’re easy to ignore since the rest of this is pure perfection, AVH style.

Lanvin Spring 2010

2009-10-02T23:45:00.001-04:00

You’ve got to love Alber Elbaz. Not only for being one of the most adorable creatures I can think of, but for his relentless celebration of the female form and spirit. Sure, there is nothing revolutionary here by Lanvin terms, but it is gorgeous no less. The last few collections were heavily decadent and while this is along the same lines, there are a lot of playful elements mixed in which make it covetable. It’s playful, complimentary and has such a powerful and sexy presence… a sure fire recipe to making a woman feel like a million bucks.

Limi Feu Spring 2010

2009-10-02T23:44:00.002-04:00

Staying true to herself 100% but in the same token, Limi introduces some really pivotal elements this season and it’s definitely an overall win. The classic silhouettes, the styling, her signature flair… not only is it all present, but there is a more polished feel to it all, without having lost any of the fun spirit that makes her work so endearing.

In the midst of this balancing act of maintaining and advancing her look, she goes one step further and unveils some menswear looks like it ain’t no thing. It was only a matter of time, I guess, but I love her nonchalant introduction of the menswear and also how it just blends right in. Some designers’ women’s and menswear are horses of a completely different color, which can be either impressive or detrimental, but I have a soft spot for those who can interchange and translate their signature aesthetic between their different lines.

It is great that she invested in a retail space that doubles as a venue for her shows, not only for sake of personalization but obviously also from the standpoint of frugality. Everything about this season was a smart move by Limi – from the practicality and effortless beauty of the looks, to the thoughtful new ideas; the pieces all fit and the result is a treat for us all.

Rick Owens Spring 2010

2009-10-02T23:43:00.001-04:00

It is probably not surprising to read that I am in love with this, but with good reason, no? Conjuring up a perfect marriage of classic and new concepts, Mr. Owens brings forth a flawless and super fresh Spring collection for us to feast our eyes and wallets on. Well, at least being broke will have seldom looked so good.

He’s shed some new light on his ubiquitous basics by changing up the cuts and shifting even further into a geometrical realm and tastefully evolving away from the fairly formless territory that he was becoming notorious for. He’s always had great structured jackets, but it’s lovely to see the structure and form making a powerful presence in his work as a whole. I guess when the world is on your coattails, it’s as good a time as ever to morph into something even more exciting. The shapes here are so stunning and the silhouettes are wildly intriguing as a result.

The footwear is also really interesting; some brand new ideas, along with some in the same vein of the recent past collections. The thing I like the most is that they strike a nice balance between the ultra dramatic footwear he’s done and something more minimal… but without losing any of the magic that makes his footwear so unique in the first place.

MeadhamKirchhoff Spring 2010

2009-09-22T23:41:00.001-04:00

I’ll admit off the bat that I am biased in my love for this collection, as this is pretty much in the vein of the aesthetic I gravitate toward most and is also how I like to dress… however, I think it’s beautiful from an objective standpoint as well. The gathering and pintucking are my favorite bits, but there are also so many unique details such as the trousers with zippers down the front. The difference contrast between certain fabrics used, plus the brilliant runway styling really grab the attention. I adore the bag so much and how it echoes the design of some of the clothing here as well. Really liking this as a whole and will definitely be picking up a thing or two.

Charles Anastase Spring 2010

2009-09-22T23:40:00.001-04:00

After what was an uncharacteristic, let down of a collection last season, in my opinion anyways, Charles is BACK and as good as ever. This collection screams his name; all of the attributes we know and love from this brand are representing here and intertwined with a bunch of fresh concepts that all come together so beautifully. He has a real knack for designing fresh, young clothing without crossing the line in to tacky/trashy territory… meanwhile keeping it enticing, just in a more modest way… and after all, as far as I am concerned, modesty is beauty. His silhouettes never falter but this season they’re even more enhanced and exaggerated while remaining slightly off kilter, which of course, I love. The colors are to die for as well – crisp neutrals with the splashes of yellow/orange/red-ish tones. It goes without saying that the dresses are amazing, but the outerwear is right up to par with them.

Rodarte Spring 2010

2009-09-15T23:39:00.004-04:00

My favorite kinfolk duo (and fellow anime lovers!), Rodarte, are back and suffice to say they’ve brought along with them a beautiful collection. Darkness for Spring? Yes, please. These ladies are doing remarkable things and I love that they’re cultivating and fine-tuning their trademarks as each season rolls around. I love that their vision never falters, though they bring on new elements and overtones with each collection.

This one is so dramatic and has so much to feast the eyes on that it’s hard to keep your sight on one thing for very long. The textures that are happening within each piece is nothing short of mind blowing! Construction-wise, they are one of the most exciting brands for me – in person, their pieces are intense and unusual in the most lovely of ways and the intricacy is just so impressive.

The rich, deep color story this season was gorgeous as well and I adore their printwork. The contrast of elements in these pieces and how they masterfully overlap, intertwine and marry the different materials within each garment is such a beautiful thing. Truly sensational.

Their influences are always present but they translate and incorporate them with such nonchalance that they only add fuel to the already dramatic and visually orgasmic aesthetic that is the foundation of their label. It is a delight to witness the Mulleavy sisters continually flourish each season, enchanting us all along the way.

Rad Hourani Spring 2010

2009-09-15T23:39:00.002-04:00

Thank heavens for Rad Hourani, this season especially. I am enamored with his directional progression; there’s little better than a designer with an original look that just gets better and better over the years, à la Rick Owens and Hourani is certainly on a similar path. The fact that his work just is what it is and is timeless in the sense that it transcends trends and has a distinct aesthetic, that he’s able to rework his look is showing that he has the potential to be a diligent and consistent force to be reckoned with.

I also applaud, not only the aesthetic progression in terms of detailing and updated versions of his signature pieces, but the fact that the construction and materials he’s using are evolving right along with it. Everything looks so clean and attractive and the different textures, contrasting panels and zipper detailing only further the appeal.

Jeremy Laing Spring 2010

2009-09-14T23:38:00.001-04:00

Carrying over from his very nicely done and well-received autumn collection, Jeremy Laing is back with another one. I am really loving the range of fabrics he chose and worked into this one and the array of detailing that the collection possesses overall. Each piece is something special, when broken down, in addition to them all working as a cohesive unit. Laing’s work always feels so young and vibrant with a nice edge, to me – but it also has so many mature and impressive elements that it makes him someone who’s interesting and well worth following the work of.

NYFW + Gary Graham Spring 2010

2009-09-13T23:36:00.002-04:00

NYFW is a mess this year, a huge mess of tired trends and dated or just completely redundant collections. Not that it’s usually an invigorating fashion week or anything, but this season seems particularly sad. The whole Erin Wasson x RVCA, Alexander Wang, neo-Herve Leger, etc, thing… not only has it been done to death but by now it’s all a bit of a joke.

In a time where finances are so tight that fashion greats such as Veronique Branquinho have to completely shut down their houses and inexplicably talented geniuses such as Yohji Yamamoto’s are also being threatened – it is terrible that this shallow crap is selling like hotcakes and is running rampant on the runways – the place where trends are meant to be set… not regurgitated upon.

At this point, these gimmicky ‘designers’ are basically pulling a Fight Club on their clientele, by selling back to them their own veritable excrement in shiny new packages each season – and according to sales, people are buying it right up. It seems innovation has gone down in priority and I hope that will change.

:straps on Optimist hat:

back to regularly scheduled programming:

Gary Graham is definitely a designer who deserves much more praise and recognition than he’s gotten so far. But in addition to his diligent talent, the feature he just shot for an upcoming issue Vogue (featuring his favorite model Ms. Pivovarova) should definitely help expose him.

I think this collection right here is such a breath of fresh air; from the clothing to the setting – I love to see such thoughtfulness. My favorite aspect is probably the unusual and varying waistlines, it’s a beautiful play on proportions and was furthered beautifully by the great styling. The dresses are all lovely but what really won me over were the structured pieces sprinkled throughout… they add just the right amount of rigidity to counterbalance the whimsical overtone and not to mention the proportions are amazing on them and I love how he uses them to subtly distort the silhouette. All in all, it’s just really well done, attractive and has real subtance, which is something a lot of collections this week are severely lacking. Well done, Mr. Graham!

Chitose Abe x Monclear Spring 2010

2009-09-04T23:35:00.000-04:00

Moncler did well by inviting the amazing designer of Sa cai, Chitose Abe, to design a collection for them. How stunning are these silhouettes? If there’s one thing above all that Abe does flawlessly, it is combining beauty and function and these really showcase that. My usual association with Moncler is the world bulky, but these really break the mold and are actually very pretty and incredibly interesting. They are so in line with her aesthetic, despite the challenge of working with outerwear materials. The pieces will be released for sale next year under the label of ‘Moncler S’ and it’s said that they will be available in black, white and olive.

Rick Owens Furniture

2009-08-31T23:34:00.001-04:00

Rick Owens has created some new furniture for an upcoming exhibit, which will be showcased alongside some of his previous works. He seems to employ many of the same inspirations he does with his clothing, into his furniture. It, like his garments, is very structured and animalistic. I wish I could pop over to check out the exhibit but that’s definitely not happening in less than 2 weeks. But anyone in the London area who stops by – I’d love to hear what you think of it!

Sept. 9th @ Sebastian+Barquet

PS – Rick… when will you come out with a bedding line? I’m trying to sleep on some Lilies sheets!

A Mini Shop / Anastasia Boutique

2009-08-30T23:32:00.000-04:00

As we all know, the US is severely impaired when it comes to shops which carry some of the more obscure brands we love, but fortunately a new one has surfaced, A Mini Shop. They carry some of my favorite labels, and hopefully yours as well, if you like the aesthetic of my blog. They’ve been kind enough to offer you 30% off (as well as free shipping for US customers!) on their array of Yohji Yamamoto, Undercover, Limi Feu, Junya Watanabe and much more, so take a look at what they’ve got in stock when you get the chance.

xoxo

Iris Van Herpen Fall 2009

2009-08-30T23:30:00.000-04:00

Iris Van Herpen is someone who really holds my interest. There are so many different elements to her work and philosophies that I find really beautiful. Her work is obviously brilliant and within it, there is so many different things to admire… her pieces are really a visual feast. The structures are so intricate and the shapes of her dresses are nothing short of divine. The metallics she incorporates are so complimentary; unlike many other designers who work with metallics, they don’t overwhelm, but rather enhance the overall effect.

The fact that she uses leather as the material for such complex and detailed designs is so fantastic. Using a material that basically has a mind of it’s own and will inevitably evolve and for each owner, will have a slightly different outcome… I find it really endearing and sort of selfless to a degree on the designer’s part. To let the wearer complete the process of the evolution of the garment, it sort of reminds me of Marcel Duchamp’s philosophy concerning his works of art – that they were not ‘finished’ until the viewer has come into play. He reckoned that art was incomplete until the viewer got a hold of it and perceived it from their own objective point of view. I always draw the parallel to designers such as Iris who believe in using materials that are not stagnant and which will personalize with each wearer.

I’m probably rambling again but suffice to say I like this lady. She has said she takes on a different technique each collection – and lucky for us all she does a fantastic job at it and we get to see some really progressive, refined and gorgeous clothes from her. Very much looking forward to what her next collection will be like.

Comme des Garçons Spring 2004

2009-08-28T23:27:00.000-04:00

I know this will always be thought of as ‘the topless collection’, but it was such an interesting showcase of one item, that I love to revisit it from time to time. In addition to fixating the entire presentation solely on the skirts, Kawakubo not only took the pieces to a new level, but sort of out of the bracket of what a skirt traditionally is. A variety of gorgeous half silhouettes made their way down the runway but the most intriguing part is, the bold shapes are only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to these garments. The construction and deconstruction of the pieces is what make them truly interesting, along with the materials used as they allow for manipulation of the fabric and overall shape.

Some of the skirts, which appear from the outside to be comprised of descending tiers, connected to one another… are actually all separated from each other on the inside of the garment. For instance, some layers are only for one leg to go through, and don’t connect to the waist or any of the other layers – so, if someone lifts up even the top tier of your skirt, they’re greeted with a nice money shot. The humor of Rei’s work certainly exists beyond the surface, but aside from amusement, it makes you rethink an entirely common garment in a whole new light.

I figured I could start posting more of my own pieces to go along with some of the older collections I put in here, especially since they’re usually the inspiration for the posts… so here goes.

Last year I was lucky enough to pick up one of my favorite pieces from the collection and was really surprised at the versatility of the piece (it is the all-white version of this one on the runway ). As I described above, each layer is not connected to the one above it, and this one has 2 separate leg holes, so it can look like a pair of bloomers in a way… but the upper thighs and crotch are totally bare, if you were to peek under the first or second skirt layer, in the front or back.

Also, the fabric is very thick and able to be worn in multiple ways; you can lay it flat, as pictured on the photo above, where you can see how it sort of has a deconstructed spiral design to it. Or as seen below, you can “open” the fabric in different ways to create entirely new shapes. It’s a very fun piece but also very thoughtfully constructed.

Lenny Pier Ramos Fall 2009

2009-08-23T23:26:00.000-04:00

I love when a designer can really bring forth a presentation that fully encompasses their point of view and leads you into the world that they envision. Many people are great at making clothing but it’s definitely another talent all together, when you can successfully depict the moods you’re trying to convey, but Antwerp based Lenny Pier Ramos can do just that. Originally from Montréal, Ramos nearly became a film maker and also formerly had a progressive accessory line before making the move abroad to pursue his talent for clothing design, at the prestigious Royal Academy a couple of years ago. He has since successfully culminated his influences and been able to hone them all into one beautifully ominous aesthetic.

Strongly influenced by artists such as sculptor Eduardo Chillida, it is quite wonderful to see how Ramos references and draws from such distinct sources, all the while without portraying it in a literal manner. I’d love to check out his some of stuff in person when I get the chance; the construction of and the textures within his pieces are really intriguing and it looks like he’s using some pretty interesting materials as well.

Architectural Clothes Spring 2010 "Bisector Human"

2009-08-23T23:24:00.000-04:00

If you don’t know, now you know… designer Nahum Villasana, that is. This conceptual, complex and very directional design force is just about 23 years old and has an exciting future ahead, to say the least. Villasana is already mastering the art of stacking geometrical forms to create outstanding silhouettes. In a time when so many people seem to be jumping on the all-black train – it is more than refreshing to see someone doing it correctly. The intricate construction and shapes Villasana creates add a sense of immense depth, both literally and figuratively speaking, and thus really sets him apart from other designers.

For more information on this line, please visit the website. As of right now there are no stockists, however you CAN order pieces directly from the designer (and avoid the criminal retail inflation that’s currently plaguing us all, while you’re at it) via his website.

photography by Julio Torres.

Suzuki Takayuki Fall 2009 pt. 2

2009-07-30T23:23:00.000-04:00

I know I already made a post about Suzuki Takayuki’s fall collection, however these new pictures certainly warrant a second. I am absolutely in love with Takayuki, which is surely no secret by now but it’s pretty much impossible not to be. These clothes are about as beautiful as they come and each piece is as thoughtful as the next, all the while, each containing such enchanting details. From the garments down to the shoes and all the way to the brooches – everything is absolutely beautiful.

One of my favorite aspects about his clothes are how they’re a dream to wear either alone or layered. While worn on their own, they look so ethereal and dreamy but while layered, the ascending material of each airy garment veritably drips over the next, like layers of wax down the sides of a candle. His unique vision and how he executes it so romantically is so admirable and lucky for us all, he just keeps getting even better each season.

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2009

2009-07-18T23:22:00.000-04:00

To make a terrible ‘word to the Y’s’ joke or not? Anyways, I thought this season’s Y’s collection was a beauty, but I guess that’s no surprise. I love that function is such a huge part in this line but that the clothes are always gorgeous even that they never look as though they’re from a ’secondary’ line. Lately I have been obsessing over ankle-length shirtdresses so I am beyond thrilled to see the denim one shown here and can’t wait to get my mitts on it. The proportions this season are so beautiful and beyond what I’ve shown in the image above, there are a lot more slim fitting pieces in the collection as a whole, so a really nice range of pieces overall. The footwear is really nice as well, particularly the boots; the black and white docs are gorgeous.

sacai Spring 2010

2009-07-18T23:20:00.000-04:00

Instead of the presentation photos this season, I would really rather show some individual pieces because while Chitose Abe’s overall look is great for sacai – it’s the progress that the construction and detailing has made that is the most admirable thing at this moment, for me anyhow. I have bought some pieces in the past and they’ve been very pretty and also very comfortable but didn’t seem like they’d hold up forever, which is ok since her prices are more than fair. However, in the last year she has really upped the ante; she’s said to have moved to a new atelier and these new creations are beautiful both in theory and in their construction. And although I love how she works with brighter colors in spring – and does impressively well – I think the tones she chose for autumn are perfect here and compliment the techniques she utilizes a great deal. I will definitely be picking up something from this season and I look forward to getting a closer look and feel of the newer pieces overall.

Lina Osterman Fall 2009

2009-07-10T23:19:00.000-04:00

This collection has so many gorgeous textures that I barely know which one to comment on first. Ok, I do… it’s the lace. Most times when I see this get used, it’s usually on a horrible body con dress or something to that effect – but how the designer worked with it here is so refreshing. Speaking of the designer, she is Lina Osterman, a former apprentice to artisans Margiela and Laugesen, who has started this second line of her own as a means to work outside of the confines of her Pudel line. And taking advtange of that fact, she is; as I said before this is just a textural treat and is filled to the brim with covetable pieces. I am particularly in love with the dress and knits. The linear detailing on some of the pieces is something special, and the fact that it is black detailing on black fabric, in turn adds quite a bit of depth and additional texture to the pieces. I think the birth of Osterman’s second line to further her creative endeavors has proved to be a great idea and I can’t wait to see what the future holds for her – and to see what she has for us in the future.

stockists: UK - Tokyo / for more info please visit her website.

Komakino Fall 2009

2009-07-08T23:16:00.001-04:00

Since founding the label Komakino in 2005, husband and wife duo Fe + Jin have been off to a good start, having already collaborated with Levi’s Korea and putting on a few special presentations to show their collections from the last few seasons in places such as London and Tokyo. This winter’s presentation however, shifted them into a new bracket for me. I find their works this season to be less literal with the political overtones – and more so delving deeper into more complex construction and more durable and diverse materials. The range of pieces this season is great as well; lots of nice outerwear with distinct detailing, as well as some attractive footwear. I particularly enjoy the silhouette and their diligence when it comes to attention to proportion and form – it is an attribute that sets them apart from many of the other brands in the same aesthetic category.

Stockists: Tokyo – Hong Kong – London

please visit their website for more information

Givenchy Fall 2009 Haute Couture

2009-07-07T22:05:00.002-04:00

There’s always skepticism surrounding Tisci’s couture collections, but as far as I’m concerned, this one is outstandingly good. I am sure people will nitpick but it is a gorgeous collection and if you’re going to go over the top, this is definitely the way to do it. The heavy gold embellishments are back, yet again – but this time feels new due to his expansive usage of something familiar, creating many new patterns and effects. The clothes all look impeccably constructed, not to mention the designs themselves are to die for. It’s clear there was no stone left unturned this season; everything is so thoughtful and also executed amazingly. From the theme, to the variation in materials, the range of embellishment and detail work, to the presentation, there is so much to admire. bravo Mr. Tisci. :]

Christian Lacroix Fall 2009 Haute Couture

2009-07-07T22:04:00.000-04:00

While Lacroix’s future is sadly uncertain, the circumstantial inspiration certainly birthed a gorgeous collection. Though he pretty much wiped out his typically colorful palette for this – it is still inevitably him. And though the reasoning for the black overtone might be a grim one, I’m certainly not complaining for the time being, because I love a bit of darkness with my Lacroix (ok… with my everything). I adore the restrictiveness of it all and how understated yet phenomenal most of the pieces are. I love practical couture because the magic is in the details. The way he works his embellishments here is gorgeous and I really love the lustrous fabrics he used as well. The lack of accessories and humble headwraps on the majority of the looks is perhaps also a reflection of the times, but by the same token, looks stunning. Lacroix certainly made a point this season, as well as some gorgeous clothes… here’s to hoping he’ll be gracing us with many more collections.

Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme Spring 2010

2009-06-29T22:02:00.001-04:00

Perhaps one of the most practical and smart, meanwhile undeniably appealing, shows of the season, Yohji’s Spring collection is definitely a great one. Not only because I’m insufferably biased when it comes to the Yamamotos, because that doesn’t always apply to YYPH collections (sometimes I just don’t like them), but because this is a really good Spring collection – especially for a time when we’re all looking to spend our money a little bit more wisely. I like the lack of a runway show and the humble presentation, the practicality and ease of the clothing. Aesthetically speaking, the collection is fantastic in this right as well; lovely silhouettes on overall comfortable looking outfits, comprised of loads of gorgeous basic pieces.

Damir Doma Spring 2010

2009-06-29T22:01:00.001-04:00

I applaud Doma’s efforts to break out of his drapey-drape zone a little bit this season. While I still think he really needs to add a bit more structure and functionality to his works and incorporate some different materials as he progresses… this collection is definitely a move in the right direction. The Ann D-esque orangey red was a surprising twist to this season and I also like how he showcased some pattern work this season as well. He also showed a much wider range of pieces this season which is also great. Looking forward to what he’s got in store for us in the future!

please visit us @ scoute.org for detail images from this show and others. <3

Maison Martin Margiela Menswear Spring 2010

2009-06-27T22:01:00.001-04:00

The menswear collection that Margiela bestows upon us may have a completely different aesthetic from their womenswear lines but they’re equally as great. There are few houses that can cut a jacket like Margiela do – whether for the severe womens line or for their more relaxed menswear and this season is filled to the brim with gorgeous ones. Cream and white is, of course, one of my favorite color combinations and I have been overjoyed at the amount of collections which utilized the combo this season; it is such a good look, particularly when coupled with other muted tones. I am so in love with the huge floral brooches as well as the dye work on some of the trousers aand jackets… can’t wait to see them close up. Maybe this stuff isn’t for everybody but the Margiela man is so sexy to me and I think this collection is just about perfect.

Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Spring 2010

2009-06-27T21:59:00.001-04:00

Wasn’t sure what to expect from Ms. Ann this season, but as per usual, I love it. I admit, I was expecting something heavier, more intricate, given the roll she’s been on with both lines over the last seasons, but I was really glad to see that it is a pretty stripped down and definitely something a bit different. I mean a bunch of shirtless men, who is complaining? So on to the clothes which are there – the jackets look beautiful . The accessories are so amazing… I love these (what appear to be) leather headbands and I am pretty much dying over the thin, silver harness pieces; they look so good styled with structured pieces. Though I love when she goes over the top, it’s collections like this which prove that you can strip it all down to the essence of Ann and it’s still going to be great.

Rick Owens Menswear Spring 2010

2009-06-26T21:58:00.001-04:00

As per usual, thank heavens for Mr. Owens. It’s very recognizable collection yet still filled with many new and unexpected elements as well. Hmm, where to start? I guess with the vests, since they caught my eye first. The geometric cuts of the vest look great and provide a nice contrast to the less rigid pieces when styled together. It pretty much goes without saying that his outerwear and footwear are always very distinct and I adore how he’s transformed them for this season. The boots look to die for and I like that he switched up the silhouette of his ever-so-coveted trainers.

In fact, I’m glad most of his signature bits are switched up a bit from the past few seasons. I am thrilled he incorporated a lot of new materials, including drkshdw-ish denim into his main line. How long can one keep slgihtly altering the same few key pieces… especially while a ton of other designers are on his coattails, riding his trends? I definitely applaud this turn that he’s taken and I definitely think it’s for the best. His aesthetic just “is” and always will be – so, subsequently, there is no detriment in trying new things.

Dries Van Noten Menswear Spring 2010

2009-06-25T21:57:00.002-04:00

Day one in Paris and not too much to write home about, overall. Balenciaga was drawing far too many “influences” from others, Julius was along the same lines, Juun J. continues the struggle to live up with his hype and continues fail miserably – you get the idea. But then there was Dries!

There are so many amazing pieces here and the color palette is stunning. While I generally adore his nerdy, romantic and slightly quirky aesthetic and not to mention his notoriously amazing print work… I love the relaxed formality of this… it is comfortable but nothing looks sloppy; everything is so sharp. The relaxed fit and air of ease of it all is so beautiful for this season. Outerwear is amazing also, I love the materials and shapes of the jackets. Proportion-wise, for me, Dries is always a dream and this is no different; the awesome silhouettes are subsequent to his perfect cuts and the shapes they create.

His work doesn’t show the ugly ambivalence of trying to balance trends and frills along with his vision – because he doesn’t. This is especially relieving in a time where designers are increasingly rehashing and borrowing from one another’s concepts. With Dries, we don’t have to look at his works meanwhile making correlations or comparisons with other designers, or to wonder if there’ll be an entirely new look each season or anything like that. And without these distractions, we’re really allowed to simply enjoy his work for what it is… and what it is is refreshing and consistently good.

Matthew Ames Spring 2009

2009-06-24T21:56:00.001-04:00

I saw a couple of preview images from this last year on Ms. Pernet’s blog, but hadn’t seen the full lookbook until now. And I know it’s menswear time but I just had to post it… I am in love! Based on the initial images I’d seen, I assumed it was going to be a lot of minimalist, draped, slender-silhouetted looks, but the range of shapes here is nice and varied. I am dying over how the fabric is gathered and bound, as it completely stops the draping from engulfing the form of the wearer’s body. There are so many designers doing excessive draping, but it looks like crap unless it is done according to the form underneath. Ames really did a lovely job on this, not only with the silhouettes and effects but the actual pieces look brilliantly crafted and the fabrics look great as well. Can’t wait to get ahold of some of this stuff.

Jil Sander Menswear Spring 2010

2009-06-21T21:54:00.001-04:00

I like this collection a lot. Given Raf’s output over the last year or so, I was dreading neon color blocking over otherwise gorgeous suits or something like that – but this time we got just the gorgeous suits (as well as some non-invasive prints), so thank you, Mr. Simons! Speaking of the prints; they are a bit odd but I think they’re lovely. I love the simplicity of everything here. And while, sure, the collection is pretty boring overall, I think Raf is a little bit stuck between a rock and a hard place there. When he steps out of the box, it’s been about a 50/50 chance, in recent times, that it is either going to be a really good… or a really bad thing, so he’s a bit damned if he does, damned if he doesn’t, in that way. But personally, I’m so glad this time he stayed true to Jil and himself simultaneously this time – because the stripped-down essence of both of their styles together has always been such a beautiful marriage. This collection has that; it is minimal, it is tailored impeccably and the colors are perfection.

Undercover Menswear Spring 2010

2009-06-21T21:10:00.002-04:00

Milan, menswear, Undercover, day 1… what? Usually Milan is slim pickings and especially during menswear so you can imagine my delight at UC being thrown into the mix. Mr. Takahashi did a nice job of delivering the usual goods, while making it all very Milan-friendly; tons of his signature outerwear coupled with an endless stampede of narrow cu blazers, slim trousers and other various smart attire. A worthy successor to his intense and brilliantly dark winter collection, this one’s got lovely color palette in a range of muted tones, really nice plays on proportion and as always with Jun, a ton of practical, functional and inventive pieces. Lovely!!

Katsuya Kamo x Junya Watanabe FW09

2009-06-13T21:08:00.001-04:00

Though I posted this actual collection before and lauded about Kamo’s work before, but the more time that goes by since this showing, the more admirable it becomes. As is no secret, he is consistently brilliant, everything he touches turns to magic and he always takes whatever theme he’s collaborating with to the next level, but for this collection in particular, I really found his concept so special.

The way that he incorporated classic painting techniques into his makeup work here and subsequently created optical illusions on the models faces is so next level. When you look at the placement of the shading on each model’s face, they are all unique, veritably mophing their blank expressions into an array of emotions. The hair is so intense as well and I love how it mimics the designs themselves, surrounding the entire body save for the face like molten rock.

Anne Valerie Hash Spring 2003

2009-06-12T21:06:00.000-04:00

I don’t usually post HC collections but this one is definitely one of my all time favorites. It is basically perfection. Not only had Ms. Hash had less than a handful of shows by this point in time but you’d never really know it by looking back on these works now. I think a lot of times couture is just so over the top and is couture for the sake of being couture… but when a designer makes couture basics, it is really special to me. Sometimes less is much more; it is easier to find the special details without all the frivolous overkill. AVH recieved a lot of Japanese designer comparisons in the beginning and this was one of the collections where she undeniably came into her own. I love how she kept certain trademarks and quickly learned to edit out the unnessecary elements of her work. At this point is when we really got the pleasure to learn who AVH really is. Everything here is just right; very practical but also very special and unique pieces.

Y's Red Label Fall 2009

2009-06-12T21:05:00.000-04:00

Took me long enough to post this one, I suppose. The last few months have gone by too quickly. Aside from the garments with text prints, which I only included one of above, I really am smitten with this collection. The reasons are obvious, surely… she successfully was able to take the Yamamoto silhouette and really craft it to be her own version for this label and I was beginning to look forward to her output a great deal. Unfortunately, it was been going around that Ms. Suzuki has in fact resigned from the Red Label and subsequently – but so unfortunately – NONE of this gorgeous collection will be seeing the light of day as far as actually going into production and then to retail.

I’m unsure of her reasoning, as it was by word of mouth that I learned of her departure, but while she will be missed as designer of this label, I really hope that she will continue to have some sort of output for us to gawk at because her work is stunning and also I’d love to see what, at this point in her career, she will come up with when not under the confines of someone else’s brand.

Undercover Spring 2005

2009-06-03T21:01:00.000-04:00

While we all know I am pretty Undercover-obsessed in general, there are 3 collections that sit high above the rest for me. One is the recent SS09, the other is the unforgettable FW06 and the other is this stunner here. “…but beautiful”, the second edition to be exact.

I collect pieces from these 3 collections whenever I have been able to over the years, and while say GuruGuru is much more in line with my usual ‘look’, these But Beautiful pieces are always the most precious, whimsical and fun to wear, compared to the other collections. And never has a name been more apt; the perfect way to describe these pieces really is, “strange… but beautiful”.

As we all know, Takahashi is a master of contradictory design, we’ve seen it so many times from him and it’s always done with such class, even if there’s also a heavy dose of irony or cheekiness involved. However, sometimes he just puts out a really dreamy collection which has all the elements of strange – but also an incomprehensible beauty that will both puzzle and entice us… but mostly the latter. This collection always really stood out for me in that way; it is just gorgeous, despite all of the oddities. The fact that all of the clothes, no matter how unusual – are completely practical and 100% functional. I have found from wearing some pieces. that the deconstruction work is mostly on the surface and does not ‘interfere’ with the garment’s form, from the wearer’s point of view.

The fabrics of this collection are one of it’s strongest attributes; it really feels like revisiting your childhood room, finding forgotten nightgowns, old doll clothes and a bunch of memories… reinvented into something you can wear as an adult. The runway styling is completely amazing as well as Kamo's genius hair. That aside, though, these pieces posses so much unexpected detailing that every single one is a work of art all on it’s own.

Aski Kataski Fall 2009

2009-05-24T20:54:00.002-04:00

For the fall Aski Kataski collection, designer Katsuhiro Makino did what he does best – a wonderful job of encompassing his signature elements which carry over from one season to the next and marrying it with a new theme. The harmony between the fantasy and utilitarian aspects is done with such grace and executed so well, it’s really a dream to look at.

Aside from how beautiful the clothes look, their function, which is arguably more important, is just as impressive. Not only well made but clothes that are really meant to be worn. And yes, while this should be the case for every designer, what makes Makino’s work that much more admirable is that he often uses textiles from 60+ years ago and miscellaneous antique materials to create his pieces. It is nice when people restore or reinvent things instead of always leaving the past to be just that, the past. I appreciate that this designer thrives on nostalgia but meanwhile makes the nostalgic materials all his own by creating something entirely new and beautiful.

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2004

2009-05-19T20:47:00.000-04:00

There are about a million reasons to mull over this particular collection of Ann’s but most of all because it is so good. What prompted me the most, though, were the countless parallels between her FW09 collections (both the men’s and women’s) and this FW04 one. While most of her work, over time, clearly carries over from season to season, all the trademarks we’ve come to expect and love… the similarities between the two are pretty prominent. Who knows if it was intentional or not but either way, it’s sort of neat to draw parallels between the two.

And I know that I always say it, but I really adore designers who have a long-standing, distinct and recognizable style to their work, because I think that is where true creativity lies – in being able to expand and perfect upon a unique vision without hiding behind the superficial world of creating collections around industry trends. There are few people who have done so little altering to their general aesthetic as Ann has in all this time… but for as much as it looks similar at a quick glance, there is so much that has changed within.

The FW09 collections may well have had some pony hair boots instead of leather only, and they also may have had imperious furs and haughty knits and an overall air of luxuriousness… but this one has the same base designs – just minus the frills. There is just something about Ann’s work from this point and previous to it, that makes it stand up just as well. So, while her current work might technically be more refined and posses a new-found urbane air about it, (and is no doubt gorgeous)… it was the raw, disorderly and tousled aspects of her earlier work, that you can see here, that really made me fall in love with her initially.

Amongst this deliciously neutral color palette filled with gathered and bound garments amongst a sea of structured pieces, all of which layered and styled to perfection, it’s the heavy dose of rickety disobedience that gives it that extra energy that appeals to me so much. There is not a ton of fur but what fur is there, is used wisely and provides a nice extra texture, in combination with the matte fabrics and the masterfully placed leather bits, which appear with such lovely effulgence in the right light.

This is sort of unrelated to this specific collection but one thing about Ann in general, that kind of cracks me up, is how she has decidely chosen equestrian boots and black leather gloves as the only consistent accessories that matter, for ages now (and can it really be argued?!)… but when she decides to actually do jewelry – she comes at us with the most insanely intricate and decadent necklaces/earrings known to man.

Comme des Garçons Fall 2005

2009-05-13T20:44:00.000-04:00

What better way to kick off the new site than by sharing not only one of my favorite CdG collections, but one of my favorite collections of all time? I often look back on this collection because it covers all of the bases: unique concept, wonderful pieces and execution as well as the unforgettable runway styling and makeup. The theme is clearly that of an unconventional bride and who better to depict to us a little unconventionality than Ms. Kawakubo?

Instead of doing away with every traditional aspect, she expanded on the classic (read: insufferably boring) idea of a bride’s ensemble by injecting a bit of her CdG magic into it. I mean, religion is worthwhile just for the accessories, if for nothing else anyways, no?

The fact that she did separates and how they’re layered on the runway is commendable. The standard bridal silhouette isn’t exactly the most intruiging thing in the world and by doing this, she’s opened a whole window of new options as far as both form and function go. Aside from the separates, I also love that there was outerwear thrown into the mix. Rei is always a knockout when it comes to her fabric choices but this collection really exudes a cohesion that some of her others lack, meanwhile being comprised of just as broad a range of materials as her others are.

While what’s on the body of the women is beautiful – the footwear and headpieces are a whole separate heaven in themselves. Firstly, the boots… not only do they look amazing with the garments of this collection, but they’re pretty much the perfect boot, full stop. When it comes to headpieces, if you don’t know this about me already… I can’t get enough of them. These headpieces here are so stunning and are probably equally as interesting as most of the actual garments due to the sheer intricacy and uniqueness of them.

Yoichi Nagasawa Spring 2003

2009-04-30T20:42:00.000-04:00

Nagasawa has been on my mind lately after pulling out an old piece of his from my closet the other day. Though he did get ample recognition in the time he was most prominent, and was much appreciated as a successful and boundary-pushing designer, he is not really mentioned much nowadays in comparison to the other Japanese designers from the same pivotal era, I am not sure why.

I guess I have just always assumed that because he took a more mature approach to his work, that he lost much of the ambivalence and aspiration that his work formerly exuded. Whatever the reason, made some great pieces when he was in what I would consider to be his prime. Oh well… I guess none of that really matters but I always seem to find something to complain about, isn’t it?

Getting down to the collection itself; this particular one isn’t groundbreaking or anything, but I have always been really fond of it, none the less. I enjoy the manipulation of the fabric a great deal and the cohesive progression of the dyed pieces. One thing I enjoy best about his work at and before this point was the focus on form and deconstruction, which is I suppose what he ultimately shifted away from.

What I have always found most endearing about this collection is the descent of everything from the dye itself, to the actual fabrics which descend to morph into another fabric with a seamless transition. The strappy legwear is such a sweet complimentary contrast to the clothing. I really love the styling as well; it shows off well the ease of the pieces and how lovely his designs were.

Boudicca Fall 2002

2009-04-05T20:34:00.001-04:00

One of fashion’s most underrated labels, Boudicca, have my respect for a ton of reasons, but mostly, of course, because their clothes are and always have been stunning. The duo, who are also partners in love, have always persisted diligently toward their dream while remaining independent and staying true to themselves. Everyone wants to be able to succeed with their dream in life, but how Zowie and Brian have found their path – despite shunning many corporate sponsorship opportunities – is truly something to admire.

While they’ve had more conceptual and extravagant collections than their Fall 2002 showing, I really wanted to post this one as it’s a personal favorite… possibly for the very reasons I just stated. I love their ability to bring dark and enchanting fantasies to life within their pieces and to give a very theatrical feel – but I also adore this collection for it’s harnessed fury, so to speak.

All of their signature elements are there but it’s the modesty that really adds the extra allure for me. Their cuts are always severe and clean and in this collection, we’re really allowed to focus on that. Not to say there is a lack of detailing, but rather the amount of detail is perfect. The geometric detailing works so well with their sharp designs; I love the peel away effect on some of the pieces in particular and particularly how the panel underneath is completely contrasting. The asymmetry is also fantastic as it’s done so well. And finally I have to mention the black on black work is lovely also; the contrasting textures add a lot of depth and volume to the silhouettes.

"Wearability"

2009-04-02T20:32:00.005-04:00

‘Wearable’ is a word thrown around far too often in the realm of fashion and I just have to say how absolutely ridiculous I think this is and how annoying it’s become. Of course some things actually are unwearable, such as really brittle couture gowns or things equally as perishable, but the majority of things are indeed wearable despite an unusual surface or silhouette. Technically, everything can be worn; the whole point is to look deeper than that.

I guess it breaks my heart a bit when I see someone call a collection as a whole ‘unwearable’ solely based on their impression of the runway presentation and styling being outrageous, without even a deeper look to try to grasp the clothing itself. Is this as deep as we are looking now? I mean, it doesn’t take a genius to realize that something can be outrageous, overly dramatic, overly embellished, ridiculous, whatever… and still wearable. None of the aforementioned adjectives which describe the aesthetic alone should ever be considered synonymous with the actual feel, function and quality of the item itself.

Something can look absolutely uncomfortable or very strange, but for the wearer, is completely comfortable due to the thoughtful construction and materials of the item. If books shouldn’t be judged by their covers, then neither should all clothing. There’s an entire school of designers out there currently who are specializing in modifying the human silhouette but also put an equal amount of thought into what is inside/underneath. I worry sometimes that if this term is too loosely used, that the designers in question could be pigeonholed despite their relevant talents.

Since Gareth Pugh seems to be the designer du jour who’s being widely dubbed as creating unwearable clothing, I’ll use him for my example. When people say his work belongs only on runways and museums, I have more than a sneaking suspicion that these people haven’t actually worn or even handled his clothing. His runway presentations may be very severe – but his clothing is much more impressive technically than his reputation eludes to. I’d like to try to show how disarming the majority of his pieces actually are, off the runway.

I’ve had this jacket since about November, if I remember correctly, and I’ve found that I wear it about once per week on average. As you can see – this unwearable beast is simply just a short, embellished blazer. The embellishments are attached to only the outer (of 3) layers of fabric. These triangles are indeed pointy to the touch – but don’t effect the movement or anything of the piece. They’re solely decorative and don’t interfere a bit with the functionality whatsoever.

^ Here is what I mean about not being able to really judge, based on a quick glance at the exterior. As seen above, the blazer is lined with Gareth’s signature star print. Also, the sleeves have a different lining in them, which is more smooth to the touch, as you slide your arm in. It is a shame that some people are missing the amount of thought and creativity put into these garments.

Here are a couple of the other Gareth things I have got, if you’re wondering about the more basic pieces. I adore them all very much and I wear them very frequently. If you have any questions, please ask, as I have rambled enough, unprovoked. :p

xoxo

Undercover SS09 "Grace" photo book

2009-03-27T20:29:00.000-04:00

Out of respect, I don’t feel right scanning the entire book or even high-res of the individual photos. However, it is too precious not to share to some degree, so I selected a few of the photos/pages to post in here as a small preview for those interested.

Txell Miras Fall 2009

2009-03-27T20:27:00.000-04:00

The criminally underrated (and very adorable) Ms. Miras is back with her winter collection and what a beauty it is! She’s been gravitating toward the more conceptual side of things as of late and upon seeing this collection, I am even more excited for the ride ahead. What is particularly exciting is that her style is delicious to begin with and she’s successfully managed to start incorporating entirely new concepts into her work – but meanwhile managing to keep every single, solitary bit of her essence. These are tested and true signs of a visionary and I only hope she’ll have all the success she deserves.

On to this collection itself, which is entitled – wait for it – “Framing”. Perhaps not the most imaginative name, but at least it’s certainly descriptive as nearly every garment either contains a frame or is, in itself, a frame for the wearer. The accessories mimic the theme, too, as the models donned hollow, square pendants.

The theme is particularly interesting because as far as I see it, framing can either be seen as protection or exploitation. The encased feeling of being isolated, protected from harm’s way, can make a frame a very safe thing. On the other hand, frames can also be largely exploitive – restricting and make capital of their subject.

I love the dresses with the strap(s) hanging; things like that are a dream for layering. The construction of her clothes is so good. She uses relatively delicate materials and manipulates them pretty hard – but all the while, the garments look so effortless. She doesn’t go crazy with combining textures but she is very good at using fabrics with enough differentiating qualities, so that they successfully add depth within her black-on-black looks.

Somarta Fall 2009

2009-03-26T20:25:00.000-04:00

Tamae Hirokawa may have gained notoriety by being ‘the chosen one’ and having been taken under the personal tuition of master Issey Miyake, but she’s carving a place all her own in the fashion world. Decidedly toned down compared to the last few seasons, this collection makes perhaps an even more powerful impact, as it emanates strength and a distinct and mythical beauty.

Trading in a lot of the flair, she seems to have done some serious editing work – not that her clothes seemed to even need it – but the result is indeed gorgeous and gives her work more of a decadent feel overall; the colors, the fabrics, it’s all very rich in tone or texture. Her signature patterns are usually the focal point to a great degree but this season, you’re left to appreciate the sheer beauty of her pieces. I think the ability she has to combine textures so severely, without it looking messy or overbearing, is really special.

The accessories are amazing, but aren’t they always? Yes, but let’s do some redundant gushing anyways. The jaw guards are so, so stunning and I really hope they go to retail. The stockings are a familiar thing, but they look so fresh every time. As do the bodysuits, body stocking, gloves, et al.

While it wasn’t the focus of this collection, her signature pattern is still prevalent as ever and the approaches she took toward working it in this season is really admirable. For instance, the pattern is often on a sheer, light fabric, but we see garments here where she’s translated the pattern via embroidery on opaque pieces instead. She’s also got a design company, Soma Designs, which focus on applying her signature patterns onto products, installations, furniture and more. She was even invited last year by Toyota, to make-over their Compact IQ model.

There are so many more things to mention here but I know I have a tendency to ramble on insufferably about my favorite designers, so I will keep it short. I love the collection, I love her and I look forward to her future more with each passing creation she unleashes on the world.

The Shinmai Creators Project

2009-03-26T20:21:00.000-04:00

The Shinmai Creator’s Project is sure to breathe a bit of new life into JFW, meanwhile giving some relatively up-and-coming designers some fantastic exposure. The organization is set to become an annual affair, after this year’s success and will be featuring five new designers and their work, at Japan Fashion Week each year.

The requirements were: that the designer’s experience does not yet exceed the time of 10 years and also, of course, they must have a strong interest in and passion toward Japanese design and manufacturing… and of course, recommendations from highly notable sources, such as professors at prestigious fashion academies. The winners were to show their designs in a special presentation at Japan Fashion Week, this year.

So, in the end, five winners were chosen out of a slew of designers – 52 brands, from 34 schools, in 17 countries, to be exact. On the selection committee were such reputable folks as Nobuyuki Ota (who is the now president of Issey Miyake Inc.), Valérie Toranian (Elle France’s editor in chief)and many more.

The brands/ designers chosen were Sachio Kawasaki (Japan), Nima by Nima Taherzadeh (Iran), Shida Tatsuya by Tatsuya Shida (Japan), aéthéré(e) by Ly-Ling Vilaysane & Adrien Escarvage (Switzerland, France) and Donna Sgro (Australia).

While I wasn’t in love with all of the designers’ work, the majority was definitely great. I wasn’t feeling Donna Sgro or Nima, so I am not going to post them up on here, because I’m just discriminatory like that.

However, I am really glad that these three, who’s work you can see below my rambling, are getting such exposure and they all definitely brought their A-game for JFW. I think they fit so well among the existing Japanese design aesthetic and hope they are invited to continue showing in the future.

aéthéré(e) F/W 09.10

I really like their work as it has a strong sense of ease, comfort and movement. In the same vein of Yohji, their plays on volume are really done well. Although this aesthetic, when pulled off correctly, can look mature – so it’s great how they’ve injected a lot of youth into the looks with the cuts and details. I like that the duo didn’t go flashy in any way; the collection is basically devoid of gimmicks and I respect that. The minimal pieces, styled in a heavy way, speaks a lovely message all on it’s own.

Sachio Kawasaki F/W 09.10

Kawasaki’s work is unique and filled with potential. Off the bat, the silhouettes are what immediately grabbed me, but the linear designs are really gorgeous as well. I like the structured silhouettes, coupled with the really fluid designs… he’s managed to create a really gorgeous effect with this. The execution of this is almost alarmingly good for someone with less than 10 years of accumulative design experience, but of course, that’s what makes it so exciting.

Shida Tatsuya F/W 09.10

If ever a designer belonged at JFW, it is this guy. In fact, it’s hard to believe he’s only showing as a guest, in comparison to most of the seasoned designers who show every season. The colors are used so well and give such an impact but you’ll find that things only get more impressive once you look beyond that. I am pretty blown away by a lot of the pieces; the whole aesthetic isn’t something we’ve never seen but the pieces themselves are divine. I mean… long, heavy, draped and bound fur skirts? Oh yes.

everlasting sprout Fall 2009

2009-03-26T20:20:00.000-04:00

Everlasting sprout is always something to look forward to and this season continues in that tradition brilliantly. Muramatsu’s flair for combining rich, diverse textures is always so impressive and this season, the muted color palette he chose is so divine.

It’s impossible not to mention the knitwear straight away… it is absolutely stunning! The range of different knitting techniques is so impressive as well, but it’s how Muramatsu is so creative and unique with them that makes it really something special. There is even a color block knit dress, comprised of contrasting knit panels via different patterns and colors. The chunkier knits, which he builds upon the exterior of are really precious and give off a ‘blooming’ effect, meanwhile – as do all his knits – creating a sweet silhouette.

There isn’t much in the way of outerwear but that capelet is wonderful. I love the pattern and all of the different textures on the piece. Muramatsu is so, so good with the textures; he mixes fabrics so masterfully and while the combinations are often unlikely, the result is always stunning.

As far as styling and presentation goes… well, it’s never run of the mill when it comes to everlasting sprout… it’s always a dream, really. The thoughtful pairing, precision layering and the hair and makeup always tell the story of the designs perfectly. All in all, I love everything; the clothing, presentation and styling are all so poetic and whimsically beautiful.

Suzuki Takayuki Fall 2009

2009-03-25T20:18:00.001-04:00

Simply put, Takayuki is one of the fastest rising stars at JFW, as far as I am concerned. He has been showing there for a couple of years now with his namesake line, and his work just keeps getting better with each season. Of course, I am always a huge fan of people who choose to do things a bit off the beaten path, and Takayuki is the perfect example.

Not only is he notoriously eco-conscious when it comes to his fabrics (he also has a separate line for organic-only garments), but he is a mastermind when it comes to the actual construction and detailing, as well. I love the dark and quirky beauty that his work emanates, particularly coupled with the fact that the fabrics themselves are very airy and ethereal – the combination is truly magical.

While his work is filled with atypical aspects, it’s never weird for weird’s sake or for show. The garments each make sense, and I love how much time has (clearly) been invested into the thought process behind them. The multi-layered and tiered pieces are gorgeous, and the jackets look to be cut to perfection as well.

Above all, however, it is the presentation that is really thrilling. Not only is it original, he really reinforces the sort of decrepit beauty that his work embodies. The garments act as a veritable gossamer to the cobweb feel of the individual installments. On top of the placement and composition – the way the clothes are brought to life, in a way, due to how they’re strewn and bound – the effect is really precious.

mintdesigns Fall 2009

2009-03-25T20:15:00.000-04:00

Tokyo Fashion Week began on Monday and, as per usual, it was off to a refreshing start! Trading in an abundance of gorgeously eccentric rain gear from the Spring collection, mintdesigns is back with another great showing.

The stunning print/pattern work is often what sets this duo of designers apart, as well as the unusual but highly functional materials the pieces are comprised of. The patterns they create are so unique and fun, which is just an added bonus on top of the clothing itself.

There is always such an ease about mintdesigns; they are so effortless. Not only are the clothes fun and unique, they’re also a dream to wear as far as how they play out functionality-wise and how amazingly comfortable the garments are.

As always, the styling is sheer adorableness! Although it is hard to top their last season, which had the models wearing mini-skeletal structures as head pieces, amidst what were probably some of the best rain boots and umbrellas of all time… the headpieces this season are also great. Of course I love the chic sars mask look (who doesn’t?) and how it’s coupled with the veritable barb wire halo.

The shoes, which are vintage-inspired lace up boots with contrasting soles, are really good as well – I like how they’re so different than the million variations of the same type of boot that we’re seeing from most other designers.

Alexander McQueen Spring 2001

2009-03-22T20:09:00.000-04:00

I haven’t done a retrospective entry in a while. I think the Hussein Chalayan one back in January was the last one… and before that I’d been steadily posting one older collection per month. So, time to get back on track, and what better to bring it back with some of Alexander McQueen’s early days in the spotlight?

My level of long-term fangirl-ism for McQueen is up there with my chronic cases of adoration for others, such as Yohji, Miyake, etc. But what sets McQueen apart to the special place in my heart all his own is, without a doubt, his earlier runway presentations and conceptual collections. The sheer panic I felt when he started releasing toned down, princess-y collections with standard presentations… as well as the joy I felt for F/W 09.10, are both direct results of just knowing the sheer power of McQueen’s creative drive. He’s always done things so much differently than others, and as you can see in the visuals accompanying this post – he’s had such an obvious impact on many designs we’re seeing today, from the new breed, so to speak.

I used to worry that if he didn’t return to his initial allure somehow or at least bring it back and incorporate it with the McQueen we’ve come to know today, that his early days would eventually be lost like a footprint after new snowfall… and that would be a tragic thing.

There are a ton of collections from about 10 years ago, give or take, which can show the magical essence of McQueen but there’s one that came to mind as most imperative: Spring 2001.

The presentation is everything McQueen encompasses; it’s dramatic, beautiful, a bit frightening, expressive and really embodies the lovely contradiction of severe fragility, which he’s always done so well. Everything from the psuedo-psych ward setting to the theatrics of the models, is completely awe-inspiring.

Enough about the presentation, because frankly, it speaks for itself. The clothing has to be mentioned as well. Looking at old McQueen collections, I find a lot of stimulation; they’re impressive, so far ahead of their time, so distinct. Also amusing a bit, as you can make sort of a game out of naming off the dresses which newer and more unoriginal designers have since ripped off. :p

The styling is another special element… the hospital headbands juxtaposed with the delicate and elegant dresses mimic the overall theme of a demented, tortured beauty. I love when designers create an entire concept – an entire world – around a collection… and of this, McQueen is undeniably one of the masters.

If you loved this and hadn’t seen it before, go ahead and check the rest of McQueen’s work from the late 1990’s until about Spring 2007. So inspiring.

Undercover Menswear Fall 2009

2009-03-16T20:06:00.001-04:00

Sorry I have been MIA but of course, there is nothing better to return with than an Undercover menswear collection which is on par with his womenswear collection, for a change. Not only on par but they are cohesive with one another and this contains man-friendly versions of some of the best pieces from the womenswear collection, which is fabulous.

There are still notable differences between the collections, of course. For instance this one has a more standard look book style for the presentation. The shattered glass is lovely, by the way and I love it on the backdrop as the shards appear to be suspended. Also… despite the extreme cohesion with the womenswear pieces, this collection also contains prominent elements all it’s own such as the pieces paying homage to the great Joy Division – which is so fantastic, by the way!

I’m sure it goes without saying that the outerwear is fantastic… but it’s fantastic for so many reasons. Usually his menswear stuff has a more outdoors-y, backwoods feel… but not this season. This season, he’s come correct with a broad range of outerwear, from modest to more flamboyant, and it all looks delicious. The capes are so divine and I love that he’s done the gradients for men as well. It’s also great how he’s done a ton of functional jackets, and in addition, a bunch of more formally cut ones.

He’s definitely one of my favs when it comes to cutting a blazer – for both his mens and womens lines – and this collection has a ton of lovely ones. The detailing on them is also pretty breathtaking if you’re into that sort of thing… lots of contrasting panels and unusual fabric combos. Aside from the blazers there are a ton of other stand out pieces as well, such as gradient knit hoodies (!).

Accessories are amazing but not much different from the women’s so I wont babble too much about them. I was so glad to see he used the gloves here also, though… particularly the long ones because that is so hot for a guy. The backpacks though are really nice – but his bags are unconditionally amazing in every little way – so that’s also no surprise. The footwear is great; the range of styles shown is pretty impressive.

Limi Feu Fall 2009

2009-03-11T21:41:00.000-04:00

Add another triumph to the list of great collections for the week, because Ms. Yamamoto has delivered another great one. Significantly toned down, styling-wise… I wonder if this isn’t a response to criticism of her work looking ‘too young’. Perhaps that is not the reason why the styling is so different, but the stripped-down result still makes the point either way: her clothes are well done, her skills are beyond her years and most importantly, women of all ages can wear her clothing and that there are copious styling possibilities.

She shows us that somehow, the vintage-inspired but ultimately simple hair and makeup works just as well – and makes just as much sense – as the Princess Leia headphones or her typically very heavily-layered styling did.

Another high point for me is the fact that this is much more reminiscent of her work from before making the transition to showing in Paris. This collection is less, what is widely seen as, simply Yamamoto… and instead is more Limi herself. The silhouettes are not as over the top, the asymmetry isn’t as severe… but the detailing is seemingly where she channeled most of her energy and amen to that, because I know these pieces will be an absolute dream upon purchasing.

I guess the first element of this collection for me to gush about would have to be her vests. I mean, who can make a waistcoat like this woman, really? I love how she illudes to other garments such as jackets and then uses a halter back so that they’re essentially backless. Her vests contradict themselves and I adore that. Some of her garments heavily contradict themselves and I love that.

The outerwear is pretty fantastic here as well; especially loving the jackets with the additional front panels, eluding to them being layered pieces. The knitwear is fabulous as well, down to the pockets and the piping. Some of the short tulle skirts are a little too tutu for comfort, if I’m being honest, but the longer ones, plus the tweed skirts more than make up for it. The boots are phenomenal, though. I love how they sort of ascend into a thigh high stocking, therefore rendering the boot able to be manipulated, which is fantastic.

Now, the styling may have been toned down but the clothing is as beautiful as ever. I like the difference in presentation as well as how she played around with different types of closures, straps, hardware, etc, also. It seems like she is trying to find herself to some degree and I think it’s translating very endearingly into her work. Whatever the motivation, though… I love her evolutionary process and her clothes are some of the most beloved in my entire closet. And the fact that the ride is essentially only beginning is absolutely tantalizing.

Alexander McQueen Fall 2009

2009-03-10T21:40:00.000-04:00

Whatever it was that reignited the fire under McQueen’s ass this season… let us be thankful for it. I used to look forward to his collections like a kid on Christmas morning and it was always so exciting. However, in the last handful of years, they’ve been on a slow decline… save for Spring 2007 which was amazing beyond belief.

To be honest, yesterday when I was rechecking the Paris schedule for today and tomorrow… for the first time ever, when I scanned by his name, I didn’t even know how to feel. It was sort of depressing, given how, a few years ago my anticipation level and faith in him were off the charts. Not to say spring’s collection was that bad because it wasn’t, but it lacked the severity and drama. It was sort of sitting midway on a seesaw, and this season could have either been really great… or an unfortunate return to the fairy princess madness and thankfully it was not the latter.

The presentation is of course fabulous. The Leigh Bowery references – the makeup as well as some of the design elements – are really great. He really took it and ran with it and gave us all back what we’ve been missing dearly. It’s wonderful to see some of that old rebellion, severity and twisted beauty get injected back into the veins his work.

There are so many amazing dresses and jackets in here that I don’t even know where to start. I am sure the images speak for themselves for the most part, but there is so much goodness going on that I have to mention a few of my favorite bits. First, I am loving how he has done some variations of his older designs by reworking and updating them. Perhaps it’s a big fuck you response to all of the people who were saying that Pugh had essentially replaced him… because there is graphic work going on like we haven’t seen in a long time from him. Or maybe that’s not why at all, but whatever the reason, I am grateful and I am loving it.

As always, his textures are intimidatingly good and the garments are executed to perfection. Another one of the best parts, though, are the silhouettes. We’ve seen them before and they’ve been done astoundingly well then, too, but to see them via a long awaited return, of course, makes them look just that much better.

Undercover Fall 2009

2009-03-10T21:39:00.000-04:00

Well, it’s about that time… that familiar time between frivolously enchanting collections, when Takahashi hits us with one of his collections that scream, “I can do beautiful more beautiful than most designers when I want to… and I can do an amazing and astoundingly functional winter outerwear-based collection better than anyone when I want to”. It may not be as precious, but the magic of Takahashi’s details and the sheer thought that goes into any of his collections is so admirable.

He is indeed the master of high end outerwear as not only are his designs intricate, sharp and amazing, the functionality is just beyond any expectations from a high-end fashion brand. For instance, he uses custom materials which actually deflect rain. The hoods on his jackets are often able to be manipulated due to bendable wire lining the brim, so that you can always fully shield your face. I bought one of the parkas from FW07, which was my favorite of his outerwear-based collections and it’s so impressive on every level that in some ways, I almost look forward to these collections as much as ones such as Guru Guru and Grace.

The fact that the show took place in a frigid Japanese forest says it all, really. These clothes are functional foremost and just happen to have the added bonus of being an aesthetic dream as well. The color palette narrated similarly to a fire igniting and then extinguishing.

I am in love with the gradients; he’s done them on so many different fabrics and even the bags (!!!), which is so good. I love the shoes also although, I will admit that they’re a bit too close for comfort to those flats that Marni did a few seasons back with the contrasting black strap. These ones are bound to be cooler, though, so who really cares? :p

The cloaks are so incredible and I love how they’re styled with the metal helmet type of headgear… which is also an amazing element of the show. There aren’t many dresses but the ones that do make an appearance are totally precious, cut-wise as well as the fabrics, and added a nice ethereal air to the collection.

Accessories, as always, are to die for… the bags, gloves and stockings are all great. The detailing within some of the accessories is so intricate and it’s those little things that make Takahashi so special. Even in an outerwear collection, no element is left behind… everything is thoughtful and perfect down to the last detail.

Hartmann Nordenholz Fall 2009

2009-03-09T21:38:00.000-04:00

I wasn’t sure what to expect from him this season but Nordenholz definitely brought something fresh and lovely to the table. It’s nice to see his great pleating skills, as always. The draping is fantastic as well and looks extra amazing ascending from the precision pleating. I love how in the photos where the clothing blends into the printed background, that the manipulated portions of the pieces are the bits that stand out due to the dimensions.

Some of the silhouettes are really interesting as well and I’m sure the garments move like a dream due to the construction and delicate fabrics. I adore the use of mauve, of all colors… paired with that perfect blue and the neutrals; an unlikely but perfect combination.

One thing that I really like about this as a whole is that while it’s heavy on the draping, it also includes some fantastic structured bits as well. The proportions are also great overall and I really enjoy the skirts in particular… great lengths and fabrics. The tanktops are also really nice; the cuts, as well as how the prints were done on them.

But the best part? The bag. I need to find a stockist for that thing because it must be mine. I will always be faithful to my O.G. Nightingale but I wouldn’t mind cheating on it once a week with that stunner. The shoes are perfect for the collection and pretty cute, generally speaking, as well.

Véronique branquinho Fall 2009

2009-03-09T21:37:00.000-04:00

The ladies are owning Paris this season and Véronique’s collection is no exception. Possibly my favorite from her in a while; I am loving everything, even down to the shoes… and I never like her shoes. This season she seems to have pulled out all the stops and in all the right ways. There is a lot of obvious thought that’s gone in here and the result is a deliciously directional show.

Probably one of my favorite color palettes this season… all of the black and white, paired with the most perfect muted violet… pure beauty! I love all of the structured pieces and they’re so well done. The cuts are amazing and I love the fit of everything. There aren’t a ton of prints but the pieces which have prints are divine. The range of textures is also fantastic, considering how minimal the overall vibe is.

The knitwear is perfect; delicate pieces, topped off with braided detailing. I am also adoring the use of fur… there are so many great shows this season with covetable furs, though I’m sure the price tags will be nothing short of dream-shattering, for most of us. Aside from just the fur pieces, all of the outerwear is so good and I love the length of them.

I can’t go without mentioning the shoes, because usually they’re a matronly nightmare. They’re adorable this season, though. The range of them is nice and the details are fab. I am especially digging the sparkly ones.

Givenchy Fall 2009

2009-03-08T21:36:00.000-04:00

After a few seasons of very busy and heavily trend-conscious collections, Tisci has seemed to strip away the heavily adorned garments and get back to his basics. I couldn’t be happier about this and while I didn’t hate the past few seasons, it was getting a little much. This season is so much better; I love how he has delivered a powerful and dramatic collection without all the unnecessary frills.

The collection looks very ‘now’, due to the Tisci detailing, but what I love the most is how he’s channeled Hubert Givenchy so well and the result is a beautiful thing. He’s done a wonderful job here at marrying vintage cuts with the contrasting elements such as the asymmetrical pieces, bead work and the use of fur.

Not only the use of fur… but the choices of furs he’s used for the designs are magnificent. Not only the fur but hair and feathers as well; the combined effect is something special. Check the video and the way the fur and feathers move – it’s so billowy and precious. I love the contrast of this with the structured pieces. The trousers, by the way, are amazing also and are cut to perfection.

The only thing I am not feeling is the lace interlude about midway through. I didn’t include any of them in the collage so I have to mention that they’re there. One even looks like a lace version of a Spring 2007 Christopher Kane dress… even down to the zipper. This section was odd, but thankfully brief, and the pros far outweigh the cons of this season anyway.

The casting of the majority of the models in the show is another thing that obviously can’t go unmentioned! Some really surprising faces turned up and I love the looks he paired each of them with; a really great element to the show.

Haider Ackermann Fall 2009

2009-03-07T21:54:00.000-05:00

Well, it’s yet another brilliant offering from Mr. Ackermann this season. His clothes are always so sexy to me and this season is no exception. Not only is the color palette deep and gorgeous, it compliments his work so well; the rich tones vamp up the luxe factor a great deal. The way he does sexy is so decadent and comfortable in your own skin type of sexy – without venturing into vulgar or tacky territory.

The Ackermann girl is a strong one, and the medieval theme and detailing here only furthers that vibe. Also the juxtaposition of delicately draped pieces paired with such a ‘tough’ embellishment is really lovely. He is one of the best at gathering and draping but I am loving his progression… he still includes all the things we love him for but it’s obvious that he’s leveling up.

The footwear, like many other shows (not that I’m complaining!), consists of super serious over the knee boots, as well as some other various boots. I am obsessed with how he styles his shows… it’s so clean, so modest and just perfect looking. The hair slicked back and the lack of make up is what I adore because it really drives the point home that, as far as he is concerned, sexy is not synonymous with the words overdone or trashy. I love that, because as far as I am concerned (always have been and always will be)… modesty is beauty.

I can’t stop without mentioning his jackets, though. There is just something about the way he cuts them and the way they fit is total perfection. The materials he uses are always really good, the construction is of course out of this world, but it’s always the details that really seal the deal… just great.