Sophia Kokosalaki Fall 2002

Ms. Kokosalaki’s latest collections have left me cold. It’s not that they’re that bad, it’s just that this stuff was that good. Her old collections really captured me – they were so severe, so spot on. Her ubiquitous details, signature shapes, overlapping panels and and just the overall brilliance of her concepts… it was all so directional and unmistakable. I wish I could get my claws on a ton of her older work as the pieces are so unique and relatively timeless. The basic pieces are tailored perfectly and I love the proportions on them… and of course, the geometric dresses and tops are obviously to die for. Perhaps some day she’ll return to making stuff in this vein but if not, it’s always nice to reflect upon anyway.

sacai Spring 2010

Chitose Abe gets better with each season that passes and it’s pretty exciting to see her signature techniques developing before our eyes. Her talent for de/reconstruction only grows more powerful as time goes on and I love how she is pulling it off with currently. The proportions, details and mix of materials are all so gorgeously odd; she’s combining unlikely patterns and fabrics and while the result isn’t subtle, it is not overbearing either; she’s got a lot of finesse for what it is that she does. Another thing I admire about her is how she seems to keep femininity a priority, by way of her precious detailing and fabrics, despite experimenting heavily with structure and silhouette.

The Dress & Co. Spring 2010

The Dress & Co. Hideaki Sakaguchi this season is, true to form, a charming mix of outerwear and delicate fabrics. The muted colors are really attractive and just lovely for spring, as are the clothes themselves. I appreciate the effortless combination of superfluity and just the right amount of structure; the ruffle placement is really darling and the jackets have great proportions.

For more information on the designer, please visit his website.

Cruella x Rick Owens

She immediately flung it off her head but it was fabulous for the moment.