Monday, March 29, 2010
Fur fur is always so lovely and so nice to see. Although I personally really liked the presentation from last season, it was obvious that it really put a lot of people off from actually seeing how good her individual pieces are so this season it's great to see them highlighted a bit. As usual, her construction is totally amazing; each piece looks like a dream within itself. The headpieces are so adorable as well and are the icing on the tiered and gathered cake that is the entire collection. Her style is derivative without a doubt but she injects so much uniqueness and consistency within it that it becomes her own type of magic each time.
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
It's been said a million times, but Rei is just beyond talented. She is, at this point, so flawless and masterful in her skill and still so whimsical in her approach. For clothes that so many are quick to deem as 'messy' or 'silly', they're really anything but. Her designs and the construction of them are executed with an almost mind-blowing level of expertise and precision; she just is so good at what it is she does. This season, through careful construction and seam placement on such overbearing, voluminous materials, she manages to create such a fluid effect within each piece. The silhouette of each piece is so poetically ambivalent, having a simultaneous effect of protection/comfort and at the same time, such precise definition. As always, I am thrilled to see her tartan print make an appearance and lastly, I am mildly (ok, very) obsessed with the footwear.
Another constantly references her own past work, but this season was a full-on assault of early Demeulemeester goodness, and I love it. Undeniably and heavily drenched in a 1990's overtone, the collection is really tough and sexy but incredibly polished on the whole. True to form in the cycle of fashion, some of the elements here are so dated, that seeing them again after such a long absence, makes them look so fresh and appealing all over again. The accessories... just wow. No one can work a rooster feather like Ann (why does that sound dirty?) and the braided harnesses, necklaces and those gloves are infinitely appealing. Overall, I think this is such a successful revamp of early Ann and goes above and beyond with all of the newer elements she's managed to marry it with.
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Tao is such a gem, not only within the CdG universe but in her own right entirely. Her style is very derivative, very Japanese but her signature design traits are so distinct that they speak so loudly, making her work instantly recognizable. In this collection, she does an amazing job at showcasing her unique abilities, such as the restrictive gathering, the skewed proportions and the unapologetic clash of colors, patterns and materials. Each piece of hers is so incredibly thoughtful and is a world of interest in and of itself and especially because of that, I am loving the runway styling; the heavy layering and general unusuality of the combinations just reinforce how powerful and fearless her vision is. I have such admiration and respect for her talent and always look forward to seeing what she'll grace us with, and couldn't be more thrilled by all of the beauty she's graced us with this season.
Highly reminiscent of his Fall 2006 showing, Junya delivers another military-inspired collection, which is packed with one of the things he does best: outerwear. While FW06 was much more aggressive and rougher around the edges, it seems Junya took a much more polished and less amplified approach. The pieces are practical but still embody a ton of interest due to his mind-blowing construction skills and overall detailing. Junya's talent for creating jackets which are simultaneously flattering, appealing and functional is uncanny and it's nice that it's the focal point of this season. In addition to the outerwear, the skirts can't go unmentioned, as the range of shapes and lengths is fantastic. Aside from the furry Ugg boots which are obviously not pictured here, and the Jersey Shore tans, I really enjoy this collection. It's not the most magical or outrageous presentation we've seen from him but there's no denying that the clothing is beautiful and impressive, as always.
Thankfully, this is not in the same vein as his Spring offering, which - and this pains me to say as a Yohji worshipper - was just not amazing. It wasn't BAD, but it was the first season I wouldn't sacrifice a limb to own most of. This season he is definitely back to his old self, without having actually returned to anything too familiar; it's quintessential Yohji... but at the same time has fresh techniques, proportions and the air of simplicity and confidence that we've come to expect from him. The pleating is amazing and I just adore the subtle deconstruction and the asymmetrical ease of it all.
Haider Ackermann is just good... no bones about it. His vision is so distinct and his technique has evolved into something that can only be described as masterful. Instead of trend-hopping or going through an obvious metamorphosis each season, as I've said about a million times before, I much prefer designers who slowly nurture and progress upon their own special and unique vision and who could be a better example at this point of this than Haider? He is just spot on, from the cuts themselves to the level of intricacy that the collection descends into. I mean, lace effect laser-cut leather? It's just too beautiful for words. Everything here is simply so thoughtful, so impressive and exceeds all expectations without throwing us for a loop. In the end, these are empowering clothes women will want to wear and feel amazing in, which is what it's all about.
Friday, March 5, 2010
I was looking back through some of Richard Serra's sculptures recently and noticed immediately that they reminded me of something I'd seen since the last time I'd looked... the bracelets from Rick Owens S/S 10 collection. They are nearly identical in shape and structure to Serra's works, particularly the one pictured above. I can't be positive that Rick intentionally derived inspiration from Serra but if so, I definitely think he did well at translating and conveying the structures into a wearable medium. And if not, it's an interesting and striking comparison, none the less.
Thursday, March 4, 2010
My favorite kind of Rick is the old school, pre-Paris Rick, when his work was very raw and unapologetic... so, needless to say, I am loving this collection. It's so fun to see him make a dive back into his old graphic, severe style that gained him so much notoriety initially. This collection's look is so primal; like lemur priestesses, who would also kick your ass in a dark alley. I could do without the tights and some other things but I appreciate them because it reinforces the shameless confidence that the collection gives off as a whole. The fur pieces are nothing short of gorgeous and I really like the effect of the adorned pieces as well... and it pretty much goes without saying that the outerwear he shows here is, always has been and always will be amazing.
For some reason I am surprised by this collection, despite the fact that there's nothing relatively new here as far as Sharon is concerned. I guess it just feels really fresh and current, meanwhile tying in all of the sensibilities and distinct talent that she always encompasses. She's really pulled out all the stops, technique-wise, but keeps the collection as a whole very concise and cohesive. The color story is simply beautiful; rich, earthy tones paired with the severe black. The construction on everything is really just impeccable, from the structured outerwear to the intricate workings such as the weaved leather. Overall just a really great collection for the moment, perfectly executed with wit and plenty of integrity.
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
While Dries is a master at mixing prints, combining unusual patterns and materials, all the while accomplishing it in such an effortless manner - what I really love is when he strips down to his basics like this, which he hasn't done in quite a few years. Sometimes I feel the busyness of his recent collections really overshadowed the core of what makes him just so good; it's the proportions, the ease, the deceptively simple pieces... all of which are cut to absolute perfection and topped off with the perfect detailing accessories and styling. To say I'd love to own and wear most of this is a total understatement... it's just gorgeous.
Definitely one of my favorite collections from Limi since she transitioned to Paris a couple of years back, it is filled with masterful, playful, feminine yet severe and just plain covetable pieces. It's hard to ignore the Ann Demeulemeester influence on many of the looks, even down to the styling and similar hats... perhaps a homage of sorts? I'm not sure the intention, but the result is total perfection. Limi's style is always progressing and adapting but her voice is always so strong no matter the theme she's after. The feminine touch that she breathes into the bold silhouettes she cuts, always strikes such an admirable balance, creating an air of simultaneous severity and ease.
I was happy to learn that Txell showed in London this season as part of a select group of designers and I thought her collection was lovely. It is definitely toned down and much more straightforward than her older work, and while I do miss the geometric overtones and plays on dimension that we have seen from her in the past, this is still obviously a really nice collection with a lot of great pieces, particularly the outerwear which looks fantastic. I love the styling as well here; the proportions are really interesting. Overall, I like it... though it lacks the distinction of her past works but look forward to see what direction she'll be taking in the future.
A journey through textural landscapes, layer upon layer of luxe materials, embellishments and accessories, Marras' collection is definitely a favorite of the season thus far. His work always oozes such a rich sensibility but with so much depth and the right amount of a quirk factor that it is almost impossible not to covet his pieces and to be in awe of the overall styling and presence. The styling is just utter perfection; the contrast of fabrics, silhouettes and accessories are perfect enhancements to a beautiful collection.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
My beloved Takayuki had a gorgeous exhibition recently in which he worked with Suibokuga artist, Shukoku Tsuchiya, and stylist Shinichi Mita, in creating these garment installations. The trio have reportedly been combining their talents under the group name of TENKI for a few months now. The theme of this particular installation was 'layers' and the artists worked together to combine different elements - the voluminous effect of clothing, incorporated with 2-dimensional art - to create garments that challenge, blur and works toward eliminating the divide that exists between clothing and art. Aside from the philosophy behind it all, it's simply stunning from a visual standpoint. I love the different showcases and concepts within the exhibition and I very much look forward to seeing what they be creating together in the future.
From what we can see in these images from his website, Marc Le Bihan's latest collection looks absolutely beautiful, which is, of course, no surprise at all. The original showroom images had these awful peep toe shoes but I am glad newer ones surfaced with much better footwear. I always love his heavy styling of such dramatic pieces; the effect is a multi-proportional dream with so much dimension. One thing I always love about Bihan is that, after the initial impression of a great silhouette, there's so much more visual interest to explore within each look and beyond that, each piece. Would love to get a closer look and feel of these but even just from these images, this may be my favorite overall output of his in a couple seasons, if not years.
I've been breaking these in for a few weeks and I just love them. They are beautiful, but beyond that, they go so well with everything from jeans to dresses. Just thought I'd post this up for anyone who's considering getting these as they're just great and in addition to looks, they're so comfortable as well.
ETA - OOps... I just went to publish/respond to some comments but I accidentally clicked Reject. and according to Google, there is no way to recover them. >_<
I sincerely appreciate and enjoy responding to comments here so I just wanted to say sorry if you don't see your comment published.
Lots of love to you all.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
As thousands of others have and will continue to, I just wanted to express a few words on the unfortunate passing of this genial human being. Attempting to put it into words may well be futile, but for the man who's presentations have moved me to tears, multiple times, I will try.
There are aesthetic geniuses, there are undeniable talents... basically, there are a lot of people out there who are good at at expressing their visions. However, it's so rare for someone to possess the ability to articulate it to an audience through an intense and successful visual translation, the way he could. So rare to be able to leave such an impact on the viewers, or in his case, the overall experience-r, because with McQueen, it was never just about making pretty clothes.
In an overwhelmingly superficial, catty and shallow industry, this man put on some of most heartfelt presentations that we have seen, and as of today, will ever see again. Some of them were disturbing, some were pristine, some outrageous and some too poetic and beautiful to put into words - but no matter their tone, they were always so unique, so powerful and so magical. He provided us unique experiences, installations and conveyed moods and visions that took us to another place in time, entirely, which is a talent far and above what most clothing designers can only dream to possess.
His collections before and particularly in the early 2000's were inexplicably gorgeous; the concepts were always different, bizarre and beautiful and afterward left such an impression on the viewer. I was personally moved to tears by a few of them, something which another designer has ever evoked in me before or since. Not to knock his work in the recent years, but the level of whimsicality was turned down and he seemed to gravitate toward a more futuristic and flashy approach. I wasn't sure why the evolution, but it was clear that while his visions shifted, his passion, volume and determination to articulate his vision never seemed to waiver.
While it's no secret that the most deeply creative people are often the most tormented, it is absolutely tragic when the world loses these special souls, who's creations touch so many lives. McQueen, like many, was probably filled with an inescapable darkness and terror, which can only be soothed by a few special people we are fortunate enough to cross paths with in life. Once those people are taken away from our lives, it can become impossible, and pointless, to continue the struggle of living.
On this sad day, as cliche as it is, I can only hope that he has finally found the peace that he deserves. His work will always live on, his presentations and vision will always remain unmatched and his legacy will continue to bless and haunt all who encounter his brilliant creations. May his soul finally be free.