Comme des Garçons Fall 2010 Paris

It's been said a million times, but Rei is just beyond talented. She is, at this point, so flawless and masterful in her skill and still so whimsical in her approach. For clothes that so many are quick to deem as 'messy' or 'silly', they're really anything but. Her designs and the construction of them are executed with an almost mind-blowing level of expertise and precision; she just is so good at what it is she does. This season, through careful construction and seam placement on such overbearing, voluminous materials, she manages to create such a fluid effect within each piece. The silhouette of each piece is so poetically ambivalent, having a simultaneous effect of protection/comfort and at the same time, such precise definition. As always, I am thrilled to see her tartan print make an appearance and lastly, I am mildly (ok, very) obsessed with the footwear.

Comme des Garçons Spring 2010

Two words: fucking perfect. After the incredibly tough act to follow that was her Autumn collection, she’s back with another magical one. It’s hard to really comment on everything or else I’d be here all day, but of course the patchwork is the standout technique here and she’s executed it so flawlessly, so admirably. Amidst the masterful deconstruction and patchworking, there are a ton of great basics and other covetable pieces, which truly make the collection a home run on the whole.

The dresses are beyond beautiful, the trousers are cut to perfection, the shoes are a dream; this collection really thrives in all aspects. I am most obsessed with the trenches. I adore beyond words how she substitutes severe fabrics for very ethereal ones within her structured garments. The idea alone of using these delicate fabrics on outerwear is so precious, and the finished products are almost heartbreakingly beautiful.

The craftsmanship that goes into Rei’s collections is no doubt amazing but what is most touching to me is how she manages to convey and depict so clearly her messages of nostalgia, sentimentality and guarded beauty… it’s really something special.

Comme des Garçons Spring 2004

I know this will always be thought of as ‘the topless collection’, but it was such an interesting showcase of one item, that I love to revisit it from time to time. In addition to fixating the entire presentation solely on the skirts, Kawakubo not only took the pieces to a new level, but sort of out of the bracket of what a skirt traditionally is. A variety of gorgeous half silhouettes made their way down the runway but the most intriguing part is, the bold shapes are only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to these garments. The construction and deconstruction of the pieces is what make them truly interesting, along with the materials used as they allow for manipulation of the fabric and overall shape.

Some of the skirts, which appear from the outside to be comprised of descending tiers, connected to one another… are actually all separated from each other on the inside of the garment. For instance, some layers are only for one leg to go through, and don’t connect to the waist or any of the other layers – so, if someone lifts up even the top tier of your skirt, they’re greeted with a nice money shot. The humor of Rei’s work certainly exists beyond the surface, but aside from amusement, it makes you rethink an entirely common garment in a whole new light.

I figured I could start posting more of my own pieces to go along with some of the older collections I put in here, especially since they’re usually the inspiration for the posts… so here goes.

Last year I was lucky enough to pick up one of my favorite pieces from the collection and was really surprised at the versatility of the piece (it is the all-white version of this one on the runway ). As I described above, each layer is not connected to the one above it, and this one has 2 separate leg holes, so it can look like a pair of bloomers in a way… but the upper thighs and crotch are totally bare, if you were to peek under the first or second skirt layer, in the front or back.

Also, the fabric is very thick and able to be worn in multiple ways; you can lay it flat, as pictured on the photo above, where you can see how it sort of has a deconstructed spiral design to it. Or as seen below, you can “open” the fabric in different ways to create entirely new shapes. It’s a very fun piece but also very thoughtfully constructed.

Comme des Garçons Fall 2005

What better way to kick off the new site than by sharing not only one of my favorite CdG collections, but one of my favorite collections of all time? I often look back on this collection because it covers all of the bases: unique concept, wonderful pieces and execution as well as the unforgettable runway styling and makeup. The theme is clearly that of an unconventional bride and who better to depict to us a little unconventionality than Ms. Kawakubo?

Instead of doing away with every traditional aspect, she expanded on the classic (read: insufferably boring) idea of a bride’s ensemble by injecting a bit of her CdG magic into it. I mean, religion is worthwhile just for the accessories, if for nothing else anyways, no?

The fact that she did separates and how they’re layered on the runway is commendable. The standard bridal silhouette isn’t exactly the most intruiging thing in the world and by doing this, she’s opened a whole window of new options as far as both form and function go. Aside from the separates, I also love that there was outerwear thrown into the mix. Rei is always a knockout when it comes to her fabric choices but this collection really exudes a cohesion that some of her others lack, meanwhile being comprised of just as broad a range of materials as her others are.

While what’s on the body of the women is beautiful – the footwear and headpieces are a whole separate heaven in themselves. Firstly, the boots… not only do they look amazing with the garments of this collection, but they’re pretty much the perfect boot, full stop. When it comes to headpieces, if you don’t know this about me already… I can’t get enough of them. These headpieces here are so stunning and are probably equally as interesting as most of the actual garments due to the sheer intricacy and uniqueness of them.

Comme des Garçons Fall 2009

Rei has come through this season like she hasn’t in a while. Revisiting her lighter side, this collection is so wonderfully whimsical, from the entire concept all the way down to the smallest of details. Not that there is ever a lack of thoughtfulness when it comes to her work, but this time she seems to be re-inspired and has come up with some fresh concepts and mixes them with her usual CdG magic.

I think that overall the collection gives off a strong impression of comfort and protection; from the blankets, to the concept of enveloped garments, to the militarily influenced pieces, etc. The fact that she chose tulle as the encasing fabric says a lot as it is a fabric which can be seen as both delicate as well as strong. I think it’s so precious that she’s used it to restrict much heavier layers underneath, creating a veritable cocoon.

The outerwear is fantastic; ranging from more practical, neutral pieces, to more detail-oriented pieces such as the jackets with the contrast piping. Not only is there a real differential in the materials but the range of different types of outerwear is also great. There are both translucent as well as opaque capes as well as a number of different type of jackets – including some to die for cropped ones – varying in cut and construction.

My favorite part, however, has got to be the multi-paneled skirts and dresses which are bound by a sheer layer of delicate fabric, restricting the layers underneath and subsequently creating very slender silhouettes. The concept is so beautiful and the way she’s pulled it off is actually really brilliant, especially how it encases every single thing, all the way down to the jewelry. Not only is the message powerful but it looks so, so gorgeous.

It’s one of my favorite collections from her in a while, without a doubt. She’s really gotten back to her roots here and the theme and execution of this is so enchanting.

Comme des Garçons Spring 2003

I am always left with the feeling of a terrible void after fashion weeks end each season, so I’ve decided that in the absence of new collections, I should post some of my favorite collections of the past. The good thing is, many of them have proved to be timeless, so rather than taking a dated look back, it’s actually nice to see how well they’ve held up with time and it makes me appreciate them that much more. I hope you’ll all enjoy them as well.

The first one I chose was Comme des Garçons’ S/S 03. Rei has always been such a master of her craft and taking a look back really solidifies that. This collection in particular was one of my favorites of hers simply because it does a good job at showcasing some of the things that she did well at the time and ultimately went on to be known for. Her gathering and ruching techniques have always been so admirable and the construction of her pieces is always so unique.

One thing in particular I have always loved about Rei, which is really plain to see in this collection, is that while the techniques she uses are used by many designers, her work always seems so personal. It is never too polished looking, too symmetrical, but rather it is a lovely visualization of brilliant trains of thought… ones which are not restricted by the confines of traditional construction. Her work is just so honest in that regard. The result is that the garments end up telling an intricate story and are able to lead the eye in unexpected places.

Comme des Garçons Menswear Spring 2009

Rei has brought the heat this season as this collection is absolutely a dream. There are so many patterns going on, so many different layers and dimensions of complexity yet it is not sloppy or goofy looking at all. There are many skirts in the collection, and you hardly notice because of the pretty masculine styling of the show. The pants underneath the shorts and skirts look really great. The jackets and blazers are absolutely amazing as well. Very wearable but with so much of Rei’s signature charm and extreme attention to detail. The look I chose to feature above the collage, I chose because it sums up my feelings on the whole collection in one look; impeccable styling and layering, the mixture of extremely different prints which provide so much depth and complexity, the pants under the long, layered skirts, everything. Well done, I’d say. It’s an incredibly wearable collection for CDG but I also think it’s still very thoughtful toward her male market and not patronizingly feminine for the sake of it… like some of the other collections this season.