Yohji Yamamoto Y's Spring 2009

Another Y’s collection, another success. As usual, the silhouettes are grand, and while they’re often not as dramatic as YY’s, it doesn’t necessarily mean they’re a step down. Y’s is one of the few labels I have a hard time swallowing when someone refers to it as a diffusion label – because I think the aesthetic is so consistently strong and impressive that it really has it’s own legs to stand on without being constantly compared or downgraded by being referred to as diffusion.

At any rate, these clothes are gorgeous as usual. The dresses and skirts are so beautiful and the fabrics look incredible as well. Everything looks extremely comfortable and the fabrics, delicate or not, drape wonderfully. The trousers are all cut to perfection and I love the color palette for spring as well.

Aski Kataski Spring 2009

How magical is this collection and presentation? I am just in love with it. Last season, I loved the collection as well; it’s always beautiful, though, due to the nature of the aesthetic in general. However, this season’s look book is particularly a delight because unlike last season, these ones are in color. I think the color palette of the clothing really needs to be seen to grasp the full concept. The colors are warm, inviting and so complimentary to the look of the clothes. As far as textures go, these pieces are a dream. Layered or on their own, each garment is rich enough in every aspect to be a stand-out piece on it’s own… yet you can endlessly layer the pieces of this collection and it wouldn’t look overdone. It’s just beautiful overall, there isn’t a bad word to say, really. Collections which are highly themed but not gimmicky aren’t easy to accomplish but I think Aski does it so well. There is such a whimsical overtone to the clothing and when that’s pulled off in a beautiful way, it is a great thing.

The styling is fairly minimal yet it does an effective job at showcasing the clothes. But I think because the garments individually possess so much life within them that that was really the best route. There is something to be said for the fabrics used and also the construction of them; it shows much thought, integrity and is so well edited – nothing is remotely lover the top. I love the way the denim is integrated into the otherwise very organic and earthy palette.

sacai Spring 2009

I am pretty delighted with this collection, although most of it is not my cup of tea as far as my personal style goes. It is, however, right up my alley in terms of all that it accomplishes and for it’s uniqueness. An astounding amount of designers have jumped on the colorful bandwagon recently, which is great in some cases… not so much in others. Anyhow, I think more people could take a cue or two from a collection like this. It is fun, it is light in mood, it is bright and lovely – but it is simple, it doesn’t take itself too seriously and there are a glorious amount of details to be enchanted by.

The humble draping and thoughtful cuts are two of the most prominent aspects of the collection, along with the slightly understated but wonderfully complimentary and charming color palette. I really like the play at asymmetry without going entirely serve… it gives an overall soft edge type of feeling. The pieces are beautiful on their own but also are a dream if you’re someone who loves to layer, like I do.

As far as the materials go, that may be one of my favorite parts of this. While they may not be the most luxurious or high end, I can really appreciate the mix of textures and different variations going on; I think it all enhances well the overall theme.

Nicolas Andreas Taralis Menswear Spring 2009

If you checked out the scoute interview on Mr. Taralis, you read mention of a much anticipated S/S 09 collection from the man. Well, some photos have surfaced… and here they are!

This collection is exciting for me because I think he really has done a great job at showcasing who he is as a designer, with it. Smart and very current clothing for the humbly stylish man – but with enough impressive details to really make it all something special. The sheer blazer and trench? Oh god, I am so in love. Not only are they beautifully constructed garments but a man in a conservative garment that happens to be sheer… that is so lovely. Aside from the sheer pieces, the clothing is just solid from every aspect. Unfortunately this isn’t the kind of menswear I personally can wear because it is too masculine – which is actually a great thing, and refreshing at this point – but I admire every bit of it none the less.

One thing in particular that I admire about Taralis is his dedication to staying “in the now” and designing for the present time. Heaven knows I love a good vintage or futuristic inspired collection but let’s face it… there is something to be said for someone who completely has their own vision and can accomplish a completely current collection, themes and gimmicks aside, and that’s something he can do very well.

If I wasn’t already, these images leave me in utter anticipation of his forthcoming women’s line! I really can’t wait to see what he’ll bring forth. The good thing is we’ve only until March to find out. The time has almost arrived.

Helena Hörstedt Spring 2009

Swedish designer Helena Hörstedt’s latest collection, entitled Broken Shadow, is as impressive as ever. Her intricate techniques and amazingly flawless execution are an endless aesthetic delight and this collection is absolutely no exception. The silhouettes are always out of this world and powerfully feminine. Her color palette may be black, but there is so much depth within the garments. These pieces are then successfully brought to life by position, light and the thoughtful materials she chooses to use, which compliment her designs brilliantly. I am always blown away at her work, and with each new season’s offering, it’s apparent that she is a major force to be reckoned with. I can only wish her the best of luck as her career is one I’m always excited to follow.

Sandra Backlund Spring 2009

One of my favorite masters of knitwear, Sandra Backlund, has created yet another brilliant collection for S/S 09. It’s always a treat to see new work from her and this is definitely no exception. She is incredibly talented and I love to see the new ideas she comes up with and how she brings knitwear to new heights. As always, the shapes are so interesting, whether they’re voluminous or tight fitting garments. This season in particular, I really like the patterns going on as they create amazing silhouettes. In addition to the unique patterns and compositions within some of the pieces, there are protruding shapes, descending in size, which draw the eye outward and which create dramatic dimensions to the silhouettes. She also always does a wonderful job on the color palette; it always effectively enhances her concepts. The details are really distinct in this collection, they’re so intricate and feminine but still with a futuristic feel. They also overlap in interesting ways within some of the pieces, creating great textures.

Haider Ackermann Spring 2009

I think designers such as Ackermann, Margiela and Rick Owens are so important in the process of reshaping the perception of what is considered sexy and broadening the boundaries of traditional beauty. I admire Ackermann’s vision of a sexy woman; she is confident, strong and comfortable with herself enough to wear clothes which shift the eye away from a traditional ’sexy’ silhouette. Much like designers such as Margiela, he takes a different approach to enhancing the female form, by giving it a strong upper body. In the same token, his overall aesthetic is constructed to be so overtly sensual that the strong silhouettes work incredibly well to enhance that aspect. He strikes the perfect balance between structure and draping and the fabrics he uses are so rich and luxurious. I also appreciate the lack of range he presents in this collection… the look isn’t maybe something you could wear to work, and it’s not for everyone. However, you have to applaud the focus that was put in to creating one concise vision; it shows and the result is phenomenal.

Limi Feu Spring 2009

Another season, another amazing collection from Ms. Yamamoto. I was so pleased to see a lighthearted but conceptual and beautifully done collection from her this spring. The show seemed to be a good summary of her career thus far, yet not retrospective as she brought in many new elements and concepts in addition. There was a significant amount of color, from bright reds and blues, to bold pastels; great accentual pieces amongst the monochromatic scheme of the majority of the collection. She has a knack for constructing over sized garments with such a thoughtful – but not overt – amount of detailing so that they’re still very feminine; they always fall nicely on the frame and avoid looking boxy or masculine. Her clothes are not for the faint of heart, but in the same token are so well thought out and comfortable to wear. Her garments are often really dynamic and multifunctional as many of them include very large pockets, which could hypothetically replace a handbag for many women.

Limi’s styling is beyond refreshing amongst so many other designers who have the same boring, traditional visions of how a woman should look and how she should be clad. I like that not only does she challenge conventional views of sensuality but she also lifts many of the stereotypes and presents her girl in a more playful and nontraditional way. Another great thing is that she casts wonderful models; different heights, different ages and different builds. These women wear her clothes, the clothes are not wearing them. I think this makes a large statement… that her clothes have the ability to speak for themselves, but through the wearer’s voice.

The models wore headphones constructed of faux braided hair, a la Princess Leia, and were seemingly functional as they were plugged into iPods. As usual, she had great androgynous footwear and accessories, such as black-soled boots in a variety of colors, as well as neck ties and suspenders.

Bernhard Willhelm Spring 2009

Bernhard Willhelm killed it once again with his newest collection. It was a bit understated compared to what I was anticipating but, of course, it’s so gorgeous and amazingly well done. I guess it makes sense that during a season when so many designers – from lesser known to some of the biggest design houses – are having their way with vibrant colors, patterns and silhouettes, that the master tones his aesthetic down a bit… meanwhile further perfecting the things that he’s known best for. The outstanding shapes and silhouettes were there in full effect, in true Willhelm form.

Brilliant colors strategically placed and plenty of his infectious hand crafted prints filled the runway, as did an air of maturity. Not to say his aesthetic lacks maturity, but rather the woman he is dressing seemed a bit more refined this season. The clothing is eye catching but perfectly comfortable and has a certain ease about it… a very relaxed feel. The styling was amusing; the models were decked out with Sharpie-esque written words and drawings on their faces and the accessories had a culinary theme. Rarely do I like leggings, but what can I say… he does them right. Also really great thigh high stockings make an appearance as well. Overall, another visual delight from Willhelm.

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2009

Such a surprising collection from Ann this season! I love her but I am so glad she took on a re-invention of sorts this Spring. Her last collection was great, because her work is great, but it was getting to be very same-y without much expansion. She’s really outdone herself here… while breathing much new life into her aesthetic, she’s managed to keep the core of what, for many, Ann D. is all about (which is something many other designers could take a cue from). The color palette is really varied; I’m not the biggest fan of that orange but boy am I glad it’s in there. The stripes are always something I love to see popping up in her clothes because I just love how she works them. Accessories are also super fresh here; the necklaces are absolutely out of this world. The shoes are great although they remind me a bit of the lace-effect Alaia’s… though that isn’t a terrible thing. The menswear is beautiful as well; handsome and a bit refined but with much of her signature quirkiness maintained. Such a great collection… go Ann!

Undercover Spring 2009

I am absolutely blown away by this collection and presentation; it’s by far the most magical, all in all, than I have experienced in quite a long time. The room filled with sterile white mannequins donning sterile white clothing, coordinately colored jewelry and footwear. The walls are decorated with massive, mysterious UC photographs and provide a perfectly haunting vibe to the clothing. The collection may be all white but there is certainly no lack of beauty or brilliance. Each garment has mass quantities of thoughtful details to the point where I can barely get over it, it’s all just so lovely. Silhouette-wise it’s also a grand slam; not too fitted and not too loose.

I can’t applaud the presentation enough. Usually I’m not thrilled about showroom presentations to begin with – let alone ones with mannequins – as they usually do a large disservice to the collection, but this one is truly a treat and it all works so well. Honorable mention has to also go to the adorable cycloptic creatures perched on the mannequin’s shoulders… they’re so cute to begin with and the fact that they’re wearing such beautiful jewelry makes them all the more endearing.

There aren’t enough good things to say about this collection. Jun Takahashi is absolutely brilliant and if that fact wasn’t set in stone before, it sure is now.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2009

Although I adore his autumn shows, Yohji’s spring collections always seem to be my very favorite. There was a lot to live up to after last spring’s show and he definitely came through with this one. The black and white color palette always suits his work perfectly as there’s so much brilliance in each piece, that sometimes adding color is almost a distraction from his amazing work. Pale, haunting makeup on the models do all to enhance the great vibe of this show. Light, thin fabrics make the clothes wonderful for warmer weather and do much for the potential of layering.

His flair for asymmetry is always impressive, no matter how many times I see it in his work, it never gets old. He’s got the ability to do it with such class… it never comes close to looking juvenile. The long white dresses are incredible, in theory and in execution; they’re so new, but so Yohji all the same. I don’t even like sunglasses (save for the L’incognitos) but I can’t deny the appeal of these ones he’s used here… they’re really nice in shape and just interesting overall and not to mention they suit his aesthetic perfectly. The belts are also something to be spoken of… whether in an accentual white or in black, they definitely add a subtle but great statement to the looks.

Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2009 - Anniversary collection

This collection is a riot. It really is. First of all, happy anniversary to one of the industry’s greats! What better way is there to celebrate the most well-known recent works of one of our most beloved (and cheekiest) designers than to have a larger-than-life sized walking cake? We see a showcase of the things he’s been best known for in recent years: the extended and raised shoulders, the humor, the art, etc. I think perhaps it could have been slightly less humorous and he could have possibly put a new twist on some of his concepts – particularly since half the designers in Paris seem to be taking a stab at MMM shoulders – but none the less it’s a joy to look at if you’re a fan of his. The hirsute pieces are absolutely hilarious and I love the backwards styling and all of the props. Here’s to many more decades…

Rick Owens Spring 2009

Oh, Mr. Owens, can you do no wrong? At first glance, this collection may appear fairly minimal – well, in comparison to the last few, at least – but there is so much going on. The subtle variation and expansion of different takes on each look via different materials and detailing is really admirable. The details are truly where it’s at… particularly in many of the skirts, which look as if you could endlessly peel the layers away like the petals of a flower.

What has always moved me most about Rick Owens is his idea of beauty… which is, I suppose, that there should be no singular idea of beauty. He breaks down the conventional concepts of how women should look… but not defiantly. Rather, he demonstrates his own unique vision of a woman, and somehow, she couldn’t look more appealing.

His color palette, while not a surprise, never seems to get old. The fabrics he uses always tell a story of their own, as well. They’re full of integrity, potential, strength and luxuriousness. I love how he tweaks his silhouette with each season, but that his unique traits undoubtedly shine through. The presentation is wonderful; veiled heads and veiled feet, and nothing but the garment in between.

Bruno Pieters Spring 2009

As usual, Bruno Pieters delivers a solid collection of powerful pieces. I’ll be honest, I was hoping for more of the over sized androgyny that last season had to offer, but that’s not to say this one was disappointing at all. One of the great things about Bruno Pieters is that, while you can definitely look forward to the aesthetic being maintained, you won’t be seeing the same exact thing two seasons in a row. The return to shimmering fabrics was a great one; it really enhances the signature structure and strong tailoring that the brand is notorious for. The silhouettes give off such an empowered feel but remain largely body conscious. I always love the direct presentations, as well… it’s always very no-frills but confident and beautiful none the less.

Gareth Pugh Spring 2009

Paris… Paris is here!

And Gareth is there! It’s Mr. Pugh’s first venture into the world that is Paris Fashion Week and oh my, what a first impression to make. Pugh, who’s known for his boundary-pushing designs and unmistakable exaggerated silhouettes, absolutely WORKED the first day of PFW. First and foremost, he has proved in a large way that he does indeed have the ability to edit and restrain some of the theatrics, but most important – this collection is still undoubtedly his aesthetic. He’s taken some of the muscle out of the theatrics and put it into the detailing and what a fantastic shift it is. With a somehow robotic, Elizabethan samurai look… the pieces are each a work of art in their own right, yet they’re very thoughtful and actually quite body-conscious and have lovely accentuation. The color pallette is divine, but then again I am always a sucker for white/black/off-white, a la Tao S/S 07. There’s not a bad word I can say about this, in all honesty. If you know Pugh, it’s easy to recognize the work and the thought he put in to this one and I applaud it a great deal.

Jil Sander Spring 2009

By far the only collection from Milan worth drooling over… or writing about, for that matter. No surprises there, as MFW is always an endless barrage of tackiness. Raf delivered a stellar collection, in every aspect. Lacking in gimmicks and abundant in integrity, these clothes are simply gorgeous. Sure, it may not be the most exciting presentation in the world, but these are clothes a modern woman would want to wear… coupled with the fact that it’s a collection which is admirably suited to Jil’s original aesthetic. The monochromatic palette and the minimalist, yet powerful vibe make these clothes near perfect. The shoes are nothing short of incredible, which is also not a surprise, but they must be talked about. They are absolutely gorgeous; strong but so lovely in the same token… surely a must-have for all the fellow shoe-loving ladies out there. Overall I thought this collection was probably one of Raf’s best for Jil and that is indeed saying a lot. While I loved the ethereal feel that last spring’s collection had, it was very trendy all the same… however, this one if simply timeless.

Rodarte Spring 2009

The Rodarte duo are really a huge breath of fresh air in the realm of American designers. The few so-called ‘top American designers’ couldn’t come close to these California-based sisters by way of creativity, integrity or just overall fabulousness! The details here are nothing short of amazing; from devastatingly intricate knitwear to the use of contrasting, interwoven chains… there is just so much to admire. The colors are so refreshing and the way they’re worked together is so lovely. This is another show where it’s not a complete 180 from last year’s collection, but instead is an amplified version which has even better technique and construction than the previous one. Aside from the craftsmanship, what I love about Rodarte is the DRAMA… the fantasy element. Fashion should be fun, it should make you feel amazing, and I feel Rodarte really can offer this to women, without it looking like a costume. The clothes are gorgeous but, hello… look at the shoes; they’re absolutely deadly, and I mean that in the best way possible.

Graham Tabor Spring 2009

I just came across this designer recently and had to make an entry about him and his work. The man himself seems really interesting, drawing his inspiration from archeology. From the aesthetic properties to the emotions the process invokes for him, he’s created his S/S 09 line based around this root of inspiration. I really adore the techniques used, the fragmented design and the sort of deconstructed, decaying aspect of it all… it’s well done and I think it gets the point across really well without being completely unwearable. The fabrics he uses are great and I think there is something to be said about the cuts and lines as well.

Better his words, than mine, though… here is what he has to say about this collection:

“I’m really fascinated by the anthropological aspects of archaeology—what the heritage cultures leave behind and how we collect that knowledge through the traces they leave. At some point, all civilizations (even our own) are reduced to cultural fragments. Those that come later are only left with silent partial objects and they have to create the story around them.”

Check more of his stuff out at: grahamtabor.com

fur fur Spring 2009

Much to my delight, the Spring 2009 Japan Fashion Week is upon us! Some of the brands to show on Day 1 were mintdesigns, mercibeaucoup, Mikio Sakabe and more. The one I adored the most, however was fur fur. Designer Aya Furuhashi showcases a whimsical but strong collection full of natural, earthy tones which give an overall really warm and comfortable effect. The styling is just amazing; layers upon layers of gorgeous fabric, flowers and stunning details. The clothing is extremely well constructed. Most of the individual pieces are oversized and drapey, yet not shapeless or overwhelming, even amongst the heavy layering in the presentation. The accessories are also made out of lovely flowers, including some great headpieces and incredibly elaborate necklaces. This collection is definitely an aesthetically pleasing treat and the craftsmanship is just as admirable… very well done.