Bernhard Willhelm killed it once again with his newest collection. It was a bit understated compared to what I was anticipating but, of course, it’s so gorgeous and amazingly well done. I guess it makes sense that during a season when so many designers – from lesser known to some of the biggest design houses – are having their way with vibrant colors, patterns and silhouettes, that the master tones his aesthetic down a bit… meanwhile further perfecting the things that he’s known best for. The outstanding shapes and silhouettes were there in full effect, in true Willhelm form.
Brilliant colors strategically placed and plenty of his infectious hand crafted prints filled the runway, as did an air of maturity. Not to say his aesthetic lacks maturity, but rather the woman he is dressing seemed a bit more refined this season. The clothing is eye catching but perfectly comfortable and has a certain ease about it… a very relaxed feel. The styling was amusing; the models were decked out with Sharpie-esque written words and drawings on their faces and the accessories had a culinary theme. Rarely do I like leggings, but what can I say… he does them right. Also really great thigh high stockings make an appearance as well. Overall, another visual delight from Willhelm.
Willhelm is undoubtedly one of the best in the game at working with prints and volume, particularly simultaneously. Decidedly toned down, or perhaps matured from his seasons of the past, this is a really refined BW aesthetic but not devoid of any creativity or execution. His print work is so original and inspired and he always shows us things we’ve not seen before. The patterns he creates, whether by way of dyeing or his progressive knitwear, are truly something to be admired. It is sort of annoying that a lot of people write his stuff off as not being serious, because really, he is such an innovator whose ideas are filled with integrity and ingenuity – and his work totally crushes most others who try their hand in the same aesthetic.
