Helena Hörstedt Spring 2009

Swedish designer Helena Hörstedt’s latest collection, entitled Broken Shadow, is as impressive as ever. Her intricate techniques and amazingly flawless execution are an endless aesthetic delight and this collection is absolutely no exception. The silhouettes are always out of this world and powerfully feminine. Her color palette may be black, but there is so much depth within the garments. These pieces are then successfully brought to life by position, light and the thoughtful materials she chooses to use, which compliment her designs brilliantly. I am always blown away at her work, and with each new season’s offering, it’s apparent that she is a major force to be reckoned with. I can only wish her the best of luck as her career is one I’m always excited to follow.

Sandra Backlund Spring 2009

One of my favorite masters of knitwear, Sandra Backlund, has created yet another brilliant collection for S/S 09. It’s always a treat to see new work from her and this is definitely no exception. She is incredibly talented and I love to see the new ideas she comes up with and how she brings knitwear to new heights. As always, the shapes are so interesting, whether they’re voluminous or tight fitting garments. This season in particular, I really like the patterns going on as they create amazing silhouettes. In addition to the unique patterns and compositions within some of the pieces, there are protruding shapes, descending in size, which draw the eye outward and which create dramatic dimensions to the silhouettes. She also always does a wonderful job on the color palette; it always effectively enhances her concepts. The details are really distinct in this collection, they’re so intricate and feminine but still with a futuristic feel. They also overlap in interesting ways within some of the pieces, creating great textures.

Haider Ackermann Spring 2009

I think designers such as Ackermann, Margiela and Rick Owens are so important in the process of reshaping the perception of what is considered sexy and broadening the boundaries of traditional beauty. I admire Ackermann’s vision of a sexy woman; she is confident, strong and comfortable with herself enough to wear clothes which shift the eye away from a traditional ’sexy’ silhouette. Much like designers such as Margiela, he takes a different approach to enhancing the female form, by giving it a strong upper body. In the same token, his overall aesthetic is constructed to be so overtly sensual that the strong silhouettes work incredibly well to enhance that aspect. He strikes the perfect balance between structure and draping and the fabrics he uses are so rich and luxurious. I also appreciate the lack of range he presents in this collection… the look isn’t maybe something you could wear to work, and it’s not for everyone. However, you have to applaud the focus that was put in to creating one concise vision; it shows and the result is phenomenal.

Limi Feu Spring 2009

Another season, another amazing collection from Ms. Yamamoto. I was so pleased to see a lighthearted but conceptual and beautifully done collection from her this spring. The show seemed to be a good summary of her career thus far, yet not retrospective as she brought in many new elements and concepts in addition. There was a significant amount of color, from bright reds and blues, to bold pastels; great accentual pieces amongst the monochromatic scheme of the majority of the collection. She has a knack for constructing over sized garments with such a thoughtful – but not overt – amount of detailing so that they’re still very feminine; they always fall nicely on the frame and avoid looking boxy or masculine. Her clothes are not for the faint of heart, but in the same token are so well thought out and comfortable to wear. Her garments are often really dynamic and multifunctional as many of them include very large pockets, which could hypothetically replace a handbag for many women.

Limi’s styling is beyond refreshing amongst so many other designers who have the same boring, traditional visions of how a woman should look and how she should be clad. I like that not only does she challenge conventional views of sensuality but she also lifts many of the stereotypes and presents her girl in a more playful and nontraditional way. Another great thing is that she casts wonderful models; different heights, different ages and different builds. These women wear her clothes, the clothes are not wearing them. I think this makes a large statement… that her clothes have the ability to speak for themselves, but through the wearer’s voice.

The models wore headphones constructed of faux braided hair, a la Princess Leia, and were seemingly functional as they were plugged into iPods. As usual, she had great androgynous footwear and accessories, such as black-soled boots in a variety of colors, as well as neck ties and suspenders.

Bernhard Willhelm Spring 2009

Bernhard Willhelm killed it once again with his newest collection. It was a bit understated compared to what I was anticipating but, of course, it’s so gorgeous and amazingly well done. I guess it makes sense that during a season when so many designers – from lesser known to some of the biggest design houses – are having their way with vibrant colors, patterns and silhouettes, that the master tones his aesthetic down a bit… meanwhile further perfecting the things that he’s known best for. The outstanding shapes and silhouettes were there in full effect, in true Willhelm form.

Brilliant colors strategically placed and plenty of his infectious hand crafted prints filled the runway, as did an air of maturity. Not to say his aesthetic lacks maturity, but rather the woman he is dressing seemed a bit more refined this season. The clothing is eye catching but perfectly comfortable and has a certain ease about it… a very relaxed feel. The styling was amusing; the models were decked out with Sharpie-esque written words and drawings on their faces and the accessories had a culinary theme. Rarely do I like leggings, but what can I say… he does them right. Also really great thigh high stockings make an appearance as well. Overall, another visual delight from Willhelm.

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2009

Such a surprising collection from Ann this season! I love her but I am so glad she took on a re-invention of sorts this Spring. Her last collection was great, because her work is great, but it was getting to be very same-y without much expansion. She’s really outdone herself here… while breathing much new life into her aesthetic, she’s managed to keep the core of what, for many, Ann D. is all about (which is something many other designers could take a cue from). The color palette is really varied; I’m not the biggest fan of that orange but boy am I glad it’s in there. The stripes are always something I love to see popping up in her clothes because I just love how she works them. Accessories are also super fresh here; the necklaces are absolutely out of this world. The shoes are great although they remind me a bit of the lace-effect Alaia’s… though that isn’t a terrible thing. The menswear is beautiful as well; handsome and a bit refined but with much of her signature quirkiness maintained. Such a great collection… go Ann!

Undercover Spring 2009

I am absolutely blown away by this collection and presentation; it’s by far the most magical, all in all, than I have experienced in quite a long time. The room filled with sterile white mannequins donning sterile white clothing, coordinately colored jewelry and footwear. The walls are decorated with massive, mysterious UC photographs and provide a perfectly haunting vibe to the clothing. The collection may be all white but there is certainly no lack of beauty or brilliance. Each garment has mass quantities of thoughtful details to the point where I can barely get over it, it’s all just so lovely. Silhouette-wise it’s also a grand slam; not too fitted and not too loose.

I can’t applaud the presentation enough. Usually I’m not thrilled about showroom presentations to begin with – let alone ones with mannequins – as they usually do a large disservice to the collection, but this one is truly a treat and it all works so well. Honorable mention has to also go to the adorable cycloptic creatures perched on the mannequin’s shoulders… they’re so cute to begin with and the fact that they’re wearing such beautiful jewelry makes them all the more endearing.

There aren’t enough good things to say about this collection. Jun Takahashi is absolutely brilliant and if that fact wasn’t set in stone before, it sure is now.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2009

Although I adore his autumn shows, Yohji’s spring collections always seem to be my very favorite. There was a lot to live up to after last spring’s show and he definitely came through with this one. The black and white color palette always suits his work perfectly as there’s so much brilliance in each piece, that sometimes adding color is almost a distraction from his amazing work. Pale, haunting makeup on the models do all to enhance the great vibe of this show. Light, thin fabrics make the clothes wonderful for warmer weather and do much for the potential of layering.

His flair for asymmetry is always impressive, no matter how many times I see it in his work, it never gets old. He’s got the ability to do it with such class… it never comes close to looking juvenile. The long white dresses are incredible, in theory and in execution; they’re so new, but so Yohji all the same. I don’t even like sunglasses (save for the L’incognitos) but I can’t deny the appeal of these ones he’s used here… they’re really nice in shape and just interesting overall and not to mention they suit his aesthetic perfectly. The belts are also something to be spoken of… whether in an accentual white or in black, they definitely add a subtle but great statement to the looks.

Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2009 - Anniversary collection

This collection is a riot. It really is. First of all, happy anniversary to one of the industry’s greats! What better way is there to celebrate the most well-known recent works of one of our most beloved (and cheekiest) designers than to have a larger-than-life sized walking cake? We see a showcase of the things he’s been best known for in recent years: the extended and raised shoulders, the humor, the art, etc. I think perhaps it could have been slightly less humorous and he could have possibly put a new twist on some of his concepts – particularly since half the designers in Paris seem to be taking a stab at MMM shoulders – but none the less it’s a joy to look at if you’re a fan of his. The hirsute pieces are absolutely hilarious and I love the backwards styling and all of the props. Here’s to many more decades…

Rick Owens Spring 2009

Oh, Mr. Owens, can you do no wrong? At first glance, this collection may appear fairly minimal – well, in comparison to the last few, at least – but there is so much going on. The subtle variation and expansion of different takes on each look via different materials and detailing is really admirable. The details are truly where it’s at… particularly in many of the skirts, which look as if you could endlessly peel the layers away like the petals of a flower.

What has always moved me most about Rick Owens is his idea of beauty… which is, I suppose, that there should be no singular idea of beauty. He breaks down the conventional concepts of how women should look… but not defiantly. Rather, he demonstrates his own unique vision of a woman, and somehow, she couldn’t look more appealing.

His color palette, while not a surprise, never seems to get old. The fabrics he uses always tell a story of their own, as well. They’re full of integrity, potential, strength and luxuriousness. I love how he tweaks his silhouette with each season, but that his unique traits undoubtedly shine through. The presentation is wonderful; veiled heads and veiled feet, and nothing but the garment in between.

Bruno Pieters Spring 2009

As usual, Bruno Pieters delivers a solid collection of powerful pieces. I’ll be honest, I was hoping for more of the over sized androgyny that last season had to offer, but that’s not to say this one was disappointing at all. One of the great things about Bruno Pieters is that, while you can definitely look forward to the aesthetic being maintained, you won’t be seeing the same exact thing two seasons in a row. The return to shimmering fabrics was a great one; it really enhances the signature structure and strong tailoring that the brand is notorious for. The silhouettes give off such an empowered feel but remain largely body conscious. I always love the direct presentations, as well… it’s always very no-frills but confident and beautiful none the less.

Gareth Pugh Spring 2009

Paris… Paris is here!

And Gareth is there! It’s Mr. Pugh’s first venture into the world that is Paris Fashion Week and oh my, what a first impression to make. Pugh, who’s known for his boundary-pushing designs and unmistakable exaggerated silhouettes, absolutely WORKED the first day of PFW. First and foremost, he has proved in a large way that he does indeed have the ability to edit and restrain some of the theatrics, but most important – this collection is still undoubtedly his aesthetic. He’s taken some of the muscle out of the theatrics and put it into the detailing and what a fantastic shift it is. With a somehow robotic, Elizabethan samurai look… the pieces are each a work of art in their own right, yet they’re very thoughtful and actually quite body-conscious and have lovely accentuation. The color pallette is divine, but then again I am always a sucker for white/black/off-white, a la Tao S/S 07. There’s not a bad word I can say about this, in all honesty. If you know Pugh, it’s easy to recognize the work and the thought he put in to this one and I applaud it a great deal.

Jil Sander Spring 2009

By far the only collection from Milan worth drooling over… or writing about, for that matter. No surprises there, as MFW is always an endless barrage of tackiness. Raf delivered a stellar collection, in every aspect. Lacking in gimmicks and abundant in integrity, these clothes are simply gorgeous. Sure, it may not be the most exciting presentation in the world, but these are clothes a modern woman would want to wear… coupled with the fact that it’s a collection which is admirably suited to Jil’s original aesthetic. The monochromatic palette and the minimalist, yet powerful vibe make these clothes near perfect. The shoes are nothing short of incredible, which is also not a surprise, but they must be talked about. They are absolutely gorgeous; strong but so lovely in the same token… surely a must-have for all the fellow shoe-loving ladies out there. Overall I thought this collection was probably one of Raf’s best for Jil and that is indeed saying a lot. While I loved the ethereal feel that last spring’s collection had, it was very trendy all the same… however, this one if simply timeless.

Rodarte Spring 2009

The Rodarte duo are really a huge breath of fresh air in the realm of American designers. The few so-called ‘top American designers’ couldn’t come close to these California-based sisters by way of creativity, integrity or just overall fabulousness! The details here are nothing short of amazing; from devastatingly intricate knitwear to the use of contrasting, interwoven chains… there is just so much to admire. The colors are so refreshing and the way they’re worked together is so lovely. This is another show where it’s not a complete 180 from last year’s collection, but instead is an amplified version which has even better technique and construction than the previous one. Aside from the craftsmanship, what I love about Rodarte is the DRAMA… the fantasy element. Fashion should be fun, it should make you feel amazing, and I feel Rodarte really can offer this to women, without it looking like a costume. The clothes are gorgeous but, hello… look at the shoes; they’re absolutely deadly, and I mean that in the best way possible.

Junya Tashiro Spring 2009

Day 2 of JFW has passed and with it, have some more wonderful collections. Predictably, but justifiably of me, Junya Tashiro was by far my favorite from today and it’s easy to see why. With endless amounts of asymmetrical ruching, pale colors and plenty of intricacy, this collection warms my cold heart. The silhouettes are remarkable; bold and brooding shapes created from such precious construction. As always, the presentation is a dream as well… the models have the classic soft makeup and hairstyles, but it’s contrasted well by dramatic, yet pretty, headpieces and necklaces. I was hoping to see some of the crocheting from last season carried over into this one because it was just divine… however, I have no complaints and barely miss the crocheting after seeing the result of this collection, it’s wonderful. Tashiro always delivers and this is no exception.

I’m really looking forward to Somarta as well… surprise, surprise! :p

Kiminori Morishita Menswear Spring 2009

How adorable is this collection and presentation? Tremendously, yes. Following the current trend of feminizing the male persuasion, Morishita pulls off this idea in an endearing and sweet way… rather than the more popularized objectifying, turning-the-tables type of way which other designers have this season as well as in some of the F/W 08 shows, such as Ms. Miuccia’s. I love the frivolous aspect of it all, and I even love how that is barely counteracted by anything flashy or rough; everything looks so delicate, soft and lovely.

Morishita did one of my favorite spins on the leggings under pants trend this season, for sure, using these opaque and neutral tones. I really like how they are more like tights than leggings in some of the looks; in fact those are my favorite. Paired with the ribbon-tied mary jane type of shoe, these socks look so cute, especially paired with these versatile blazers and short pants. There are so many ideas here it’s hard to tap into them all without absolutely rambling, especially since I don’t have anything negative or critical to say! I adore so many of the concepts, from the use of leather, to the themes and all the way down to the fabrics and palette.

Suffice to say I really like this one and think the nail was hit on the head. The presentation and styling of the collection are adorable, yes… but don’t let that overshadow the fact that there are many incredible individual pieces in here to be found as well.

Somarta Spring 2009

The last day of JFW was an amazing one, mostly due to Somarta, brought to you by the amazing Tamae Hirokawa. She may have studied under the legendary Issey Miyake but she’s developing her brand so well on her own now. The trademarks from each season carry over, but the new ideas also keep popping up. The umbrella skirts are simply amazing in this collection… the construction is flawless and it gives such an incredible play in volume. The exoskeleton looking knits are by far my favorite thing; so organic and so futuristic and forward-thinking at the same time, just really stunning. As always, Somarta’s presentation was such a treat also. A year ago, for SS08 we saw dark, tribal face paint, mimicking her trademark tights/bodysuit/gloves patterns… this year the models are donned with awesome headgear and body shimmer, adding to the overall direction of the clothing. Everything is perfect, can’t wait to see what Ms. Hirokawa has in store for us in future seasons.

Véronique Branquinho Menswear Spring 2009

Véronique delivers a solid, wearable, well-executed and appropriate collection for this spring / summer, which would seemingly be the point… yet not many designers manage to get it all quite right. More impressively, she pulls off all of the aforementioned feats meanwhile incorporating most all of this season’s hottest runway trends. We see stripes, plaid, the infamous pants under shorts and one bold accent color. Thankfully, no two toning or color blocking here which adds to this collection’s refreshing qualities. If I were a guy, I’d be all over this like white on rice. It is so flattering and so now, but at the same time, classic and also forward-thinking. I adore the silhouettes. Everything is just very well done… go Véronique!

Comme des Garçons Menswear Spring 2009

Rei has brought the heat this season as this collection is absolutely a dream. There are so many patterns going on, so many different layers and dimensions of complexity yet it is not sloppy or goofy looking at all. There are many skirts in the collection, and you hardly notice because of the pretty masculine styling of the show. The pants underneath the shorts and skirts look really great. The jackets and blazers are absolutely amazing as well. Very wearable but with so much of Rei’s signature charm and extreme attention to detail. The look I chose to feature above the collage, I chose because it sums up my feelings on the whole collection in one look; impeccable styling and layering, the mixture of extremely different prints which provide so much depth and complexity, the pants under the long, layered skirts, everything. Well done, I’d say. It’s an incredibly wearable collection for CDG but I also think it’s still very thoughtful toward her male market and not patronizingly feminine for the sake of it… like some of the other collections this season.

Richard Chai Menswear Spring 2009

I didn’t realize Mr. Chai was showing in Paris this season but I am thrilled he has and I love this collection! Everything about it is great, there is so much good in it that it’s hard to choose where to begin. As seen in the first photo above the collage, the model to the left of Richard Chai has on this divine white shirt and there are a few other similar ones here and there throughout the collection… I think those were my favorite pieces. The button downs are also superb and have really subtle yet intriguing details. I love the overall textures and the fabrics used; the mixture of textiles really makes the collection dynamic amongst it’s mostly subdued color palette. The pants are simply hot… the cut of them are so nice and I love how they’re rolled up and provide just the right amount of volume to create these lovely silhouettes in this collection. One of my other favorite pieces is the long cardigan which I may even consider getting in the future. It’s pretty much the ideal over sized cardigan, all the way down to the buttons. The styling is really exceptional in this showing as well, I thought… just good all around!