Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2009

Whenever Yohji sees red, we see sheer perfection.

Needless to say, this collection is simply magical, from beginning to end. Right off the back, we’re greeted with the usual: a bunch of understated but flawless, classic Yohji looks. The fabrics for this season are fab. Whenever he works with a more delicate fabric, not only are the details fantastic, but the result of how the garments look in motion is off-the-charts gorgeous.

Speaking of details, this season is no different in that he is, time and time again, one of the masters. In this collection in particular, off the bat I immediately fall in love with the raw, unhemmed edges on some of the pieces, the gathering, the overlapping panels of the jackets, surprise placement of pockets (!!!) and all the other fantastic details. But of course, when it comes to Yohji… the exterior details are only half the journey. A lot of why I admire him so much is that the clothing is so personal… what you see on the outside is only a small part of the story. For instance, his garments are often transformable; having extra buttons in odd places, so that you can readjust the entire garment, totally transforming the silhouette. It’s things like this that will always make him my favorite… because his works go above the call of duty and change the ideas of what clothing should be about.

Anyways I am going off on one here, so keeping with this actual collection… I’ll get back on track and mention the way certain pieces are dyed because it looks so stunning. I love when garments are dyed this way – trailing off to create a small gradient effect – and it’s such a good element to add to Yohji’s fluid designs. Also the styling of the show is impeccable as always… even coordinating the hair, which is also dyed in patches, with the clothing. The pale white faces only make the red and black color palette all the more stunning and the shoes are a perfect attribute as well.

Ok, let’s face it… anyone who knows me knows I am a Yohji freak, so, as usual… I don’t have any negative words, gripes, or comparisons to spew. NOT because I have a blind love for him and his work – but because he is a god amongst men and he is simply just that good.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2003

One of my favorite collections, this Spring 2003 offering of his was definitely one to remember. As he often does, this collection is a bit of a culmination of past techniques (and retrospectively speaking – future ones too) but it is still pretty stand-out, in my opinion. It is really refined and incredibly directional. I always seem to fall for his very narrowly conceptual collections over the varied ones, I’ve noticed, although they’re all delicious.

First of all, I love collars… and this collection has all sorts and they’re either perfectly understated or brilliantly – and in the most effortless of manners – exaggerated. The overall silhouette is a comfortable one but, much like Spring 2009, has a ton of femininity sprinkled throughout the androgynous feel. Another thing I enjoy about this collection is the use of transparency as it’s very subtle yet makes it’s presence in really lovely places; he’s always quite good at the voluminous transparency but I think the way it’s used in an understated manner here is really nice.

As is no surprise, I also am a huge fan of the styling here, and think some of Tao’s collections are rather reminiscent of it. It’s very clean and straight-forward in it’s presentation, as his shows usually are. I really like the understated but ‘pretty’ aspects of it. The pink lipstick and loose finger wave styling of the hair paired with vintage-inspired headpieces really bring it all full circle.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2009

Although I adore his autumn shows, Yohji’s spring collections always seem to be my very favorite. There was a lot to live up to after last spring’s show and he definitely came through with this one. The black and white color palette always suits his work perfectly as there’s so much brilliance in each piece, that sometimes adding color is almost a distraction from his amazing work. Pale, haunting makeup on the models do all to enhance the great vibe of this show. Light, thin fabrics make the clothes wonderful for warmer weather and do much for the potential of layering.

His flair for asymmetry is always impressive, no matter how many times I see it in his work, it never gets old. He’s got the ability to do it with such class… it never comes close to looking juvenile. The long white dresses are incredible, in theory and in execution; they’re so new, but so Yohji all the same. I don’t even like sunglasses (save for the L’incognitos) but I can’t deny the appeal of these ones he’s used here… they’re really nice in shape and just interesting overall and not to mention they suit his aesthetic perfectly. The belts are also something to be spoken of… whether in an accentual white or in black, they definitely add a subtle but great statement to the looks.