Aski Kataski F/W 09.10 pieces

Another one of my favorite 'newer' designers, Katsuhiro Makino, also has the great ability to produce pieces that are a world of intrigue on all their own. I am never really a fan of his lookbook images - not because the styling isn't great and not that the pieces don't always look covetable - it's just that they leave the viewer with only a vague 'feel' for his overall style... and not a chance to really admire his pieces for what they really are.

The organic feel, plus the celestial overall designs, it's really special. I adore his color palette and his craftsmanship; his pieces feel honest and have such a slight of hand quality that I'm so attracted to. They are not over-the-top at all or shocking aesthetically, but the amount of magic that lies within the materials, detailing, proportions - it's enough to leave one in awe. I hope that the brand will start seeing a surge in retail interest soon, much like I do with Takayuki's.

Iris Van Herpen Fall 2009

Iris Van Herpen is someone who really holds my interest. There are so many different elements to her work and philosophies that I find really beautiful. Her work is obviously brilliant and within it, there is so many different things to admire… her pieces are really a visual feast. The structures are so intricate and the shapes of her dresses are nothing short of divine. The metallics she incorporates are so complimentary; unlike many other designers who work with metallics, they don’t overwhelm, but rather enhance the overall effect.

The fact that she uses leather as the material for such complex and detailed designs is so fantastic. Using a material that basically has a mind of it’s own and will inevitably evolve and for each owner, will have a slightly different outcome… I find it really endearing and sort of selfless to a degree on the designer’s part. To let the wearer complete the process of the evolution of the garment, it sort of reminds me of Marcel Duchamp’s philosophy concerning his works of art – that they were not ‘finished’ until the viewer has come into play. He reckoned that art was incomplete until the viewer got a hold of it and perceived it from their own objective point of view. I always draw the parallel to designers such as Iris who believe in using materials that are not stagnant and which will personalize with each wearer.

I’m probably rambling again but suffice to say I like this lady. She has said she takes on a different technique each collection – and lucky for us all she does a fantastic job at it and we get to see some really progressive, refined and gorgeous clothes from her. Very much looking forward to what her next collection will be like.

Lenny Pier Ramos Fall 2009

I love when a designer can really bring forth a presentation that fully encompasses their point of view and leads you into the world that they envision. Many people are great at making clothing but it’s definitely another talent all together, when you can successfully depict the moods you’re trying to convey, but Antwerp based Lenny Pier Ramos can do just that. Originally from Montréal, Ramos nearly became a film maker and also formerly had a progressive accessory line before making the move abroad to pursue his talent for clothing design, at the prestigious Royal Academy a couple of years ago. He has since successfully culminated his influences and been able to hone them all into one beautifully ominous aesthetic.

Strongly influenced by artists such as sculptor Eduardo Chillida, it is quite wonderful to see how Ramos references and draws from such distinct sources, all the while without portraying it in a literal manner. I’d love to check out his some of stuff in person when I get the chance; the construction of and the textures within his pieces are really intriguing and it looks like he’s using some pretty interesting materials as well.

Suzuki Takayuki Fall 2009 pt. 2

I know I already made a post about Suzuki Takayuki’s fall collection, however these new pictures certainly warrant a second. I am absolutely in love with Takayuki, which is surely no secret by now but it’s pretty much impossible not to be. These clothes are about as beautiful as they come and each piece is as thoughtful as the next, all the while, each containing such enchanting details. From the garments down to the shoes and all the way to the brooches – everything is absolutely beautiful.

One of my favorite aspects about his clothes are how they’re a dream to wear either alone or layered. While worn on their own, they look so ethereal and dreamy but while layered, the ascending material of each airy garment veritably drips over the next, like layers of wax down the sides of a candle. His unique vision and how he executes it so romantically is so admirable and lucky for us all, he just keeps getting even better each season.

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2009

To make a terrible ‘word to the Y’s’ joke or not? Anyways, I thought this season’s Y’s collection was a beauty, but I guess that’s no surprise. I love that function is such a huge part in this line but that the clothes are always gorgeous even that they never look as though they’re from a ’secondary’ line. Lately I have been obsessing over ankle-length shirtdresses so I am beyond thrilled to see the denim one shown here and can’t wait to get my mitts on it. The proportions this season are so beautiful and beyond what I’ve shown in the image above, there are a lot more slim fitting pieces in the collection as a whole, so a really nice range of pieces overall. The footwear is really nice as well, particularly the boots; the black and white docs are gorgeous.

Lina Osterman Fall 2009

This collection has so many gorgeous textures that I barely know which one to comment on first. Ok, I do… it’s the lace. Most times when I see this get used, it’s usually on a horrible body con dress or something to that effect – but how the designer worked with it here is so refreshing. Speaking of the designer, she is Lina Osterman, a former apprentice to artisans Margiela and Laugesen, who has started this second line of her own as a means to work outside of the confines of her Pudel line. And taking advtange of that fact, she is; as I said before this is just a textural treat and is filled to the brim with covetable pieces. I am particularly in love with the dress and knits. The linear detailing on some of the pieces is something special, and the fact that it is black detailing on black fabric, in turn adds quite a bit of depth and additional texture to the pieces. I think the birth of Osterman’s second line to further her creative endeavors has proved to be a great idea and I can’t wait to see what the future holds for her – and to see what she has for us in the future.

stockists: UK - Tokyo / for more info please visit her website.

Komakino Fall 2009

Since founding the label Komakino in 2005, husband and wife duo Fe + Jin have been off to a good start, having already collaborated with Levi’s Korea and putting on a few special presentations to show their collections from the last few seasons in places such as London and Tokyo. This winter’s presentation however, shifted them into a new bracket for me. I find their works this season to be less literal with the political overtones – and more so delving deeper into more complex construction and more durable and diverse materials. The range of pieces this season is great as well; lots of nice outerwear with distinct detailing, as well as some attractive footwear. I particularly enjoy the silhouette and their diligence when it comes to attention to proportion and form – it is an attribute that sets them apart from many of the other brands in the same aesthetic category.

Stockists: Tokyo – Hong Kong – London

please visit their website for more information

Y's Red Label Fall 2009

Took me long enough to post this one, I suppose. The last few months have gone by too quickly. Aside from the garments with text prints, which I only included one of above, I really am smitten with this collection. The reasons are obvious, surely… she successfully was able to take the Yamamoto silhouette and really craft it to be her own version for this label and I was beginning to look forward to her output a great deal. Unfortunately, it was been going around that Ms. Suzuki has in fact resigned from the Red Label and subsequently – but so unfortunately – NONE of this gorgeous collection will be seeing the light of day as far as actually going into production and then to retail.

I’m unsure of her reasoning, as it was by word of mouth that I learned of her departure, but while she will be missed as designer of this label, I really hope that she will continue to have some sort of output for us to gawk at because her work is stunning and also I’d love to see what, at this point in her career, she will come up with when not under the confines of someone else’s brand.

Txell Miras Fall 2009

The criminally underrated (and very adorable) Ms. Miras is back with her winter collection and what a beauty it is! She’s been gravitating toward the more conceptual side of things as of late and upon seeing this collection, I am even more excited for the ride ahead. What is particularly exciting is that her style is delicious to begin with and she’s successfully managed to start incorporating entirely new concepts into her work – but meanwhile managing to keep every single, solitary bit of her essence. These are tested and true signs of a visionary and I only hope she’ll have all the success she deserves.

On to this collection itself, which is entitled – wait for it – “Framing”. Perhaps not the most imaginative name, but at least it’s certainly descriptive as nearly every garment either contains a frame or is, in itself, a frame for the wearer. The accessories mimic the theme, too, as the models donned hollow, square pendants.

The theme is particularly interesting because as far as I see it, framing can either be seen as protection or exploitation. The encased feeling of being isolated, protected from harm’s way, can make a frame a very safe thing. On the other hand, frames can also be largely exploitive – restricting and make capital of their subject.

I love the dresses with the strap(s) hanging; things like that are a dream for layering. The construction of her clothes is so good. She uses relatively delicate materials and manipulates them pretty hard – but all the while, the garments look so effortless. She doesn’t go crazy with combining textures but she is very good at using fabrics with enough differentiating qualities, so that they successfully add depth within her black-on-black looks.

Somarta Fall 2009

Tamae Hirokawa may have gained notoriety by being ‘the chosen one’ and having been taken under the personal tuition of master Issey Miyake, but she’s carving a place all her own in the fashion world. Decidedly toned down compared to the last few seasons, this collection makes perhaps an even more powerful impact, as it emanates strength and a distinct and mythical beauty.

Trading in a lot of the flair, she seems to have done some serious editing work – not that her clothes seemed to even need it – but the result is indeed gorgeous and gives her work more of a decadent feel overall; the colors, the fabrics, it’s all very rich in tone or texture. Her signature patterns are usually the focal point to a great degree but this season, you’re left to appreciate the sheer beauty of her pieces. I think the ability she has to combine textures so severely, without it looking messy or overbearing, is really special.

The accessories are amazing, but aren’t they always? Yes, but let’s do some redundant gushing anyways. The jaw guards are so, so stunning and I really hope they go to retail. The stockings are a familiar thing, but they look so fresh every time. As do the bodysuits, body stocking, gloves, et al.

While it wasn’t the focus of this collection, her signature pattern is still prevalent as ever and the approaches she took toward working it in this season is really admirable. For instance, the pattern is often on a sheer, light fabric, but we see garments here where she’s translated the pattern via embroidery on opaque pieces instead. She’s also got a design company, Soma Designs, which focus on applying her signature patterns onto products, installations, furniture and more. She was even invited last year by Toyota, to make-over their Compact IQ model.

There are so many more things to mention here but I know I have a tendency to ramble on insufferably about my favorite designers, so I will keep it short. I love the collection, I love her and I look forward to her future more with each passing creation she unleashes on the world.

everlasting sprout Fall 2009

Everlasting sprout is always something to look forward to and this season continues in that tradition brilliantly. Muramatsu’s flair for combining rich, diverse textures is always so impressive and this season, the muted color palette he chose is so divine.

It’s impossible not to mention the knitwear straight away… it is absolutely stunning! The range of different knitting techniques is so impressive as well, but it’s how Muramatsu is so creative and unique with them that makes it really something special. There is even a color block knit dress, comprised of contrasting knit panels via different patterns and colors. The chunkier knits, which he builds upon the exterior of are really precious and give off a ‘blooming’ effect, meanwhile – as do all his knits – creating a sweet silhouette.

There isn’t much in the way of outerwear but that capelet is wonderful. I love the pattern and all of the different textures on the piece. Muramatsu is so, so good with the textures; he mixes fabrics so masterfully and while the combinations are often unlikely, the result is always stunning.

As far as styling and presentation goes… well, it’s never run of the mill when it comes to everlasting sprout… it’s always a dream, really. The thoughtful pairing, precision layering and the hair and makeup always tell the story of the designs perfectly. All in all, I love everything; the clothing, presentation and styling are all so poetic and whimsically beautiful.

Suzuki Takayuki Fall 2009

Simply put, Takayuki is one of the fastest rising stars at JFW, as far as I am concerned. He has been showing there for a couple of years now with his namesake line, and his work just keeps getting better with each season. Of course, I am always a huge fan of people who choose to do things a bit off the beaten path, and Takayuki is the perfect example.

Not only is he notoriously eco-conscious when it comes to his fabrics (he also has a separate line for organic-only garments), but he is a mastermind when it comes to the actual construction and detailing, as well. I love the dark and quirky beauty that his work emanates, particularly coupled with the fact that the fabrics themselves are very airy and ethereal – the combination is truly magical.

While his work is filled with atypical aspects, it’s never weird for weird’s sake or for show. The garments each make sense, and I love how much time has (clearly) been invested into the thought process behind them. The multi-layered and tiered pieces are gorgeous, and the jackets look to be cut to perfection as well.

Above all, however, it is the presentation that is really thrilling. Not only is it original, he really reinforces the sort of decrepit beauty that his work embodies. The garments act as a veritable gossamer to the cobweb feel of the individual installments. On top of the placement and composition – the way the clothes are brought to life, in a way, due to how they’re strewn and bound – the effect is really precious.

mintdesigns Fall 2009

Tokyo Fashion Week began on Monday and, as per usual, it was off to a refreshing start! Trading in an abundance of gorgeously eccentric rain gear from the Spring collection, mintdesigns is back with another great showing.

The stunning print/pattern work is often what sets this duo of designers apart, as well as the unusual but highly functional materials the pieces are comprised of. The patterns they create are so unique and fun, which is just an added bonus on top of the clothing itself.

There is always such an ease about mintdesigns; they are so effortless. Not only are the clothes fun and unique, they’re also a dream to wear as far as how they play out functionality-wise and how amazingly comfortable the garments are.

As always, the styling is sheer adorableness! Although it is hard to top their last season, which had the models wearing mini-skeletal structures as head pieces, amidst what were probably some of the best rain boots and umbrellas of all time… the headpieces this season are also great. Of course I love the chic sars mask look (who doesn’t?) and how it’s coupled with the veritable barb wire halo.

The shoes, which are vintage-inspired lace up boots with contrasting soles, are really good as well – I like how they’re so different than the million variations of the same type of boot that we’re seeing from most other designers.

Undercover Menswear Fall 2009

Sorry I have been MIA but of course, there is nothing better to return with than an Undercover menswear collection which is on par with his womenswear collection, for a change. Not only on par but they are cohesive with one another and this contains man-friendly versions of some of the best pieces from the womenswear collection, which is fabulous.

There are still notable differences between the collections, of course. For instance this one has a more standard look book style for the presentation. The shattered glass is lovely, by the way and I love it on the backdrop as the shards appear to be suspended. Also… despite the extreme cohesion with the womenswear pieces, this collection also contains prominent elements all it’s own such as the pieces paying homage to the great Joy Division – which is so fantastic, by the way!

I’m sure it goes without saying that the outerwear is fantastic… but it’s fantastic for so many reasons. Usually his menswear stuff has a more outdoors-y, backwoods feel… but not this season. This season, he’s come correct with a broad range of outerwear, from modest to more flamboyant, and it all looks delicious. The capes are so divine and I love that he’s done the gradients for men as well. It’s also great how he’s done a ton of functional jackets, and in addition, a bunch of more formally cut ones.

He’s definitely one of my favs when it comes to cutting a blazer – for both his mens and womens lines – and this collection has a ton of lovely ones. The detailing on them is also pretty breathtaking if you’re into that sort of thing… lots of contrasting panels and unusual fabric combos. Aside from the blazers there are a ton of other stand out pieces as well, such as gradient knit hoodies (!).

Accessories are amazing but not much different from the women’s so I wont babble too much about them. I was so glad to see he used the gloves here also, though… particularly the long ones because that is so hot for a guy. The backpacks though are really nice – but his bags are unconditionally amazing in every little way – so that’s also no surprise. The footwear is great; the range of styles shown is pretty impressive.

Limi Feu Fall 2009

Add another triumph to the list of great collections for the week, because Ms. Yamamoto has delivered another great one. Significantly toned down, styling-wise… I wonder if this isn’t a response to criticism of her work looking ‘too young’. Perhaps that is not the reason why the styling is so different, but the stripped-down result still makes the point either way: her clothes are well done, her skills are beyond her years and most importantly, women of all ages can wear her clothing and that there are copious styling possibilities.

She shows us that somehow, the vintage-inspired but ultimately simple hair and makeup works just as well – and makes just as much sense – as the Princess Leia headphones or her typically very heavily-layered styling did.

Another high point for me is the fact that this is much more reminiscent of her work from before making the transition to showing in Paris. This collection is less, what is widely seen as, simply Yamamoto… and instead is more Limi herself. The silhouettes are not as over the top, the asymmetry isn’t as severe… but the detailing is seemingly where she channeled most of her energy and amen to that, because I know these pieces will be an absolute dream upon purchasing.

I guess the first element of this collection for me to gush about would have to be her vests. I mean, who can make a waistcoat like this woman, really? I love how she illudes to other garments such as jackets and then uses a halter back so that they’re essentially backless. Her vests contradict themselves and I adore that. Some of her garments heavily contradict themselves and I love that.

The outerwear is pretty fantastic here as well; especially loving the jackets with the additional front panels, eluding to them being layered pieces. The knitwear is fabulous as well, down to the pockets and the piping. Some of the short tulle skirts are a little too tutu for comfort, if I’m being honest, but the longer ones, plus the tweed skirts more than make up for it. The boots are phenomenal, though. I love how they sort of ascend into a thigh high stocking, therefore rendering the boot able to be manipulated, which is fantastic.

Now, the styling may have been toned down but the clothing is as beautiful as ever. I like the difference in presentation as well as how she played around with different types of closures, straps, hardware, etc, also. It seems like she is trying to find herself to some degree and I think it’s translating very endearingly into her work. Whatever the motivation, though… I love her evolutionary process and her clothes are some of the most beloved in my entire closet. And the fact that the ride is essentially only beginning is absolutely tantalizing.

Alexander McQueen Fall 2009

Whatever it was that reignited the fire under McQueen’s ass this season… let us be thankful for it. I used to look forward to his collections like a kid on Christmas morning and it was always so exciting. However, in the last handful of years, they’ve been on a slow decline… save for Spring 2007 which was amazing beyond belief.

To be honest, yesterday when I was rechecking the Paris schedule for today and tomorrow… for the first time ever, when I scanned by his name, I didn’t even know how to feel. It was sort of depressing, given how, a few years ago my anticipation level and faith in him were off the charts. Not to say spring’s collection was that bad because it wasn’t, but it lacked the severity and drama. It was sort of sitting midway on a seesaw, and this season could have either been really great… or an unfortunate return to the fairy princess madness and thankfully it was not the latter.

The presentation is of course fabulous. The Leigh Bowery references – the makeup as well as some of the design elements – are really great. He really took it and ran with it and gave us all back what we’ve been missing dearly. It’s wonderful to see some of that old rebellion, severity and twisted beauty get injected back into the veins his work.

There are so many amazing dresses and jackets in here that I don’t even know where to start. I am sure the images speak for themselves for the most part, but there is so much goodness going on that I have to mention a few of my favorite bits. First, I am loving how he has done some variations of his older designs by reworking and updating them. Perhaps it’s a big fuck you response to all of the people who were saying that Pugh had essentially replaced him… because there is graphic work going on like we haven’t seen in a long time from him. Or maybe that’s not why at all, but whatever the reason, I am grateful and I am loving it.

As always, his textures are intimidatingly good and the garments are executed to perfection. Another one of the best parts, though, are the silhouettes. We’ve seen them before and they’ve been done astoundingly well then, too, but to see them via a long awaited return, of course, makes them look just that much better.

Undercover Fall 2009

Well, it’s about that time… that familiar time between frivolously enchanting collections, when Takahashi hits us with one of his collections that scream, “I can do beautiful more beautiful than most designers when I want to… and I can do an amazing and astoundingly functional winter outerwear-based collection better than anyone when I want to”. It may not be as precious, but the magic of Takahashi’s details and the sheer thought that goes into any of his collections is so admirable.

He is indeed the master of high end outerwear as not only are his designs intricate, sharp and amazing, the functionality is just beyond any expectations from a high-end fashion brand. For instance, he uses custom materials which actually deflect rain. The hoods on his jackets are often able to be manipulated due to bendable wire lining the brim, so that you can always fully shield your face. I bought one of the parkas from FW07, which was my favorite of his outerwear-based collections and it’s so impressive on every level that in some ways, I almost look forward to these collections as much as ones such as Guru Guru and Grace.

The fact that the show took place in a frigid Japanese forest says it all, really. These clothes are functional foremost and just happen to have the added bonus of being an aesthetic dream as well. The color palette narrated similarly to a fire igniting and then extinguishing.

I am in love with the gradients; he’s done them on so many different fabrics and even the bags (!!!), which is so good. I love the shoes also although, I will admit that they’re a bit too close for comfort to those flats that Marni did a few seasons back with the contrasting black strap. These ones are bound to be cooler, though, so who really cares? :p

The cloaks are so incredible and I love how they’re styled with the metal helmet type of headgear… which is also an amazing element of the show. There aren’t many dresses but the ones that do make an appearance are totally precious, cut-wise as well as the fabrics, and added a nice ethereal air to the collection.

Accessories, as always, are to die for… the bags, gloves and stockings are all great. The detailing within some of the accessories is so intricate and it’s those little things that make Takahashi so special. Even in an outerwear collection, no element is left behind… everything is thoughtful and perfect down to the last detail.

Hartmann Nordenholz Fall 2009

I wasn’t sure what to expect from him this season but Nordenholz definitely brought something fresh and lovely to the table. It’s nice to see his great pleating skills, as always. The draping is fantastic as well and looks extra amazing ascending from the precision pleating. I love how in the photos where the clothing blends into the printed background, that the manipulated portions of the pieces are the bits that stand out due to the dimensions.

Some of the silhouettes are really interesting as well and I’m sure the garments move like a dream due to the construction and delicate fabrics. I adore the use of mauve, of all colors… paired with that perfect blue and the neutrals; an unlikely but perfect combination.

One thing that I really like about this as a whole is that while it’s heavy on the draping, it also includes some fantastic structured bits as well. The proportions are also great overall and I really enjoy the skirts in particular… great lengths and fabrics. The tanktops are also really nice; the cuts, as well as how the prints were done on them.

But the best part? The bag. I need to find a stockist for that thing because it must be mine. I will always be faithful to my O.G. Nightingale but I wouldn’t mind cheating on it once a week with that stunner. The shoes are perfect for the collection and pretty cute, generally speaking, as well.

Véronique branquinho Fall 2009

The ladies are owning Paris this season and Véronique’s collection is no exception. Possibly my favorite from her in a while; I am loving everything, even down to the shoes… and I never like her shoes. This season she seems to have pulled out all the stops and in all the right ways. There is a lot of obvious thought that’s gone in here and the result is a deliciously directional show.

Probably one of my favorite color palettes this season… all of the black and white, paired with the most perfect muted violet… pure beauty! I love all of the structured pieces and they’re so well done. The cuts are amazing and I love the fit of everything. There aren’t a ton of prints but the pieces which have prints are divine. The range of textures is also fantastic, considering how minimal the overall vibe is.

The knitwear is perfect; delicate pieces, topped off with braided detailing. I am also adoring the use of fur… there are so many great shows this season with covetable furs, though I’m sure the price tags will be nothing short of dream-shattering, for most of us. Aside from just the fur pieces, all of the outerwear is so good and I love the length of them.

I can’t go without mentioning the shoes, because usually they’re a matronly nightmare. They’re adorable this season, though. The range of them is nice and the details are fab. I am especially digging the sparkly ones.

Givenchy Fall 2009

After a few seasons of very busy and heavily trend-conscious collections, Tisci has seemed to strip away the heavily adorned garments and get back to his basics. I couldn’t be happier about this and while I didn’t hate the past few seasons, it was getting a little much. This season is so much better; I love how he has delivered a powerful and dramatic collection without all the unnecessary frills.

The collection looks very ‘now’, due to the Tisci detailing, but what I love the most is how he’s channeled Hubert Givenchy so well and the result is a beautiful thing. He’s done a wonderful job here at marrying vintage cuts with the contrasting elements such as the asymmetrical pieces, bead work and the use of fur.

Not only the use of fur… but the choices of furs he’s used for the designs are magnificent. Not only the fur but hair and feathers as well; the combined effect is something special. Check the video and the way the fur and feathers move – it’s so billowy and precious. I love the contrast of this with the structured pieces. The trousers, by the way, are amazing also and are cut to perfection.

The only thing I am not feeling is the lace interlude about midway through. I didn’t include any of them in the collage so I have to mention that they’re there. One even looks like a lace version of a Spring 2007 Christopher Kane dress… even down to the zipper. This section was odd, but thankfully brief, and the pros far outweigh the cons of this season anyway.

The casting of the majority of the models in the show is another thing that obviously can’t go unmentioned! Some really surprising faces turned up and I love the looks he paired each of them with; a really great element to the show.