Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Alexander McQueen Fall 2009


Whatever it was that reignited the fire under McQueen’s ass this season… let us be thankful for it. I used to look forward to his collections like a kid on Christmas morning and it was always so exciting. However, in the last handful of years, they’ve been on a slow decline… save for Spring 2007 which was amazing beyond belief.

To be honest, yesterday when I was rechecking the Paris schedule for today and tomorrow… for the first time ever, when I scanned by his name, I didn’t even know how to feel. It was sort of depressing, given how, a few years ago my anticipation level and faith in him were off the charts. Not to say spring’s collection was that bad because it wasn’t, but it lacked the severity and drama. It was sort of sitting midway on a seesaw, and this season could have either been really great… or an unfortunate return to the fairy princess madness and thankfully it was not the latter.

The presentation is of course fabulous. The Leigh Bowery references – the makeup as well as some of the design elements – are really great. He really took it and ran with it and gave us all back what we’ve been missing dearly. It’s wonderful to see some of that old rebellion, severity and twisted beauty get injected back into the veins his work.

There are so many amazing dresses and jackets in here that I don’t even know where to start. I am sure the images speak for themselves for the most part, but there is so much goodness going on that I have to mention a few of my favorite bits. First, I am loving how he has done some variations of his older designs by reworking and updating them. Perhaps it’s a big fuck you response to all of the people who were saying that Pugh had essentially replaced him… because there is graphic work going on like we haven’t seen in a long time from him. Or maybe that’s not why at all, but whatever the reason, I am grateful and I am loving it. ;)

As always, his textures are intimidatingly good and the garments are executed to perfection. Another one of the best parts, though, are the silhouettes. We’ve seen them before and they’ve been done astoundingly well then, too, but to see them via a long awaited return, of course, makes them look just that much better.

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