Jil Sander Menswear Spring 2010

I like this collection a lot. Given Raf’s output over the last year or so, I was dreading neon color blocking over otherwise gorgeous suits or something like that – but this time we got just the gorgeous suits (as well as some non-invasive prints), so thank you, Mr. Simons! Speaking of the prints; they are a bit odd but I think they’re lovely. I love the simplicity of everything here. And while, sure, the collection is pretty boring overall, I think Raf is a little bit stuck between a rock and a hard place there. When he steps out of the box, it’s been about a 50/50 chance, in recent times, that it is either going to be a really good… or a really bad thing, so he’s a bit damned if he does, damned if he doesn’t, in that way. But personally, I’m so glad this time he stayed true to Jil and himself simultaneously this time – because the stripped-down essence of both of their styles together has always been such a beautiful marriage. This collection has that; it is minimal, it is tailored impeccably and the colors are perfection.

Jil Sander Fall 2009

Milan’s fashion week kicked off and as usual it’s slim pickings, but at least it means we’re one step closer to Paris. :p

I am pretty happy with this Jil Sander collection overall, despite a few mishaps (most of, not shown in above collage) which are all too reminiscent of Raf’s FW09 menswear and obviously that is not a good thing. The odd cuts and neon patches aren’t doing it, Raf… give it up, man.

Anyways on to the positives, because, to be fair… there are indeed many! I see a lot of classic Jil here; many of the signature silhouettes and classic, sleek cuts that the brand was made famous for. A lot of the looks I pictured above are just the ones I liked the most and are not representative of the collection entirely but I think there are enough great looks to make the collection a really good one overall.

The fact that it is very no frills is appealing to me. It seems stripped of trends and gimmicks and lets the simplicity speak for itself. When Raf wants to go minimal, he can do it so well, so I wish he’d ditch these gimmicks he’s had going for a few years now and stick to classic and refined pieces because I think that’s where his strength lies currently. It seems like he’s sort of rebelling against that truth sometimes with the extras he adds on… when indeed he’s just detracting from the beauty that already exists in the minimalism.

Always a fan of longer jackets with a fitted trouser, I am definitely loving the proportions on most of the looks. The colors are amazing as well and I adore how he styles navy blue with black, because yes, that combo does work, and it works beautifully. The plays on different silhouettes is really cute as well, particularly the shorter black dress. Long skirts are always a win with me but gawd, the dashes of color on the linings underneath really ruin the asymmetrical skirts for me here… loving the cuts and length on them, though.

Raf Simons Spring 2002

Mr. Simons has had such an impressive run thus far, in hindsight, even if I was unsure of where he was headed at a few points… and I just thought I’d give credit where credit was due. I like that he’s always taken chances. I also like that his new work looks nothing like this collection above – despite the fact that I love it. I enjoy the progression of his work over the years and seeing the nods at his former self along the way.

To speak on this collection in particular, I really think the styling clearly lent a hand and a half to how well received this show was – however, I don’t think that detracts from the collection’s actually integrity. There is a wonderful range of pieces shown and the collection has some great aspects. People marvel at the political commentary he depicted here, but I sort of disagree. While I’m actually fine with the pieces aesthetically – I don’t think the intention is so novel, and some of his other collections have a MUCH higher level of political influence – they’re simply just not as literal. All in all, I really liked this collection; the fabrics are really nice, the construction is great and I love the fit of these pieces.

He's definitely one of the most important and underrated designers of our era, and though I'm not sure where he's headed sometimes with some of his newer stuff, he'll always have a special place in my heart.

Jil Sander Spring 2009

By far the only collection from Milan worth drooling over… or writing about, for that matter. No surprises there, as MFW is always an endless barrage of tackiness. Raf delivered a stellar collection, in every aspect. Lacking in gimmicks and abundant in integrity, these clothes are simply gorgeous. Sure, it may not be the most exciting presentation in the world, but these are clothes a modern woman would want to wear… coupled with the fact that it’s a collection which is admirably suited to Jil’s original aesthetic. The monochromatic palette and the minimalist, yet powerful vibe make these clothes near perfect. The shoes are nothing short of incredible, which is also not a surprise, but they must be talked about. They are absolutely gorgeous; strong but so lovely in the same token… surely a must-have for all the fellow shoe-loving ladies out there. Overall I thought this collection was probably one of Raf’s best for Jil and that is indeed saying a lot. While I loved the ethereal feel that last spring’s collection had, it was very trendy all the same… however, this one if simply timeless.