Sunday, September 13, 2009

NYFW + Gary Graham Spring 2010

NYFW is a mess this year, a huge mess of tired trends and dated or just completely redundant collections. Not that it’s usually an invigorating fashion week or anything, but this season seems particularly sad. The whole Erin Wasson x RVCA, Alexander Wang, neo-Herve Leger, etc, thing… not only has it been done to death but by now it’s all a bit of a joke.

In a time where finances are so tight that fashion greats such as Veronique Branquinho have to completely shut down their houses and inexplicably talented geniuses such as Yohji Yamamoto’s are also being threatened – it is terrible that this shallow crap is selling like hotcakes and is running rampant on the runways – the place where trends are meant to be set… not regurgitated upon.

At this point, these gimmicky ‘designers’ are basically pulling a Fight Club on their clientele, by selling back to them their own veritable excrement in shiny new packages each season – and according to sales, people are buying it right up. It seems innovation has gone down in priority and I hope that will change.

:straps on Optimist hat:

back to regularly scheduled programming:

Gary Graham is definitely a designer who deserves much more praise and recognition than he’s gotten so far. But in addition to his diligent talent, the feature he just shot for an upcoming issue Vogue (featuring his favorite model Ms. Pivovarova) should definitely help expose him.

I think this collection right here is such a breath of fresh air; from the clothing to the setting – I love to see such thoughtfulness. My favorite aspect is probably the unusual and varying waistlines, it’s a beautiful play on proportions and was furthered beautifully by the great styling. The dresses are all lovely but what really won me over were the structured pieces sprinkled throughout… they add just the right amount of rigidity to counterbalance the whimsical overtone and not to mention the proportions are amazing on them and I love how he uses them to subtly distort the silhouette. All in all, it’s just really well done, attractive and has real subtance, which is something a lot of collections this week are severely lacking. Well done, Mr. Graham!

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