Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Undercover Fall 2009


Well, it’s about that time… that familiar time between frivolously enchanting collections, when Takahashi hits us with one of his collections that scream, “I can do beautiful more beautiful than most designers when I want to… and I can do an amazing and astoundingly functional winter outerwear-based collection better than anyone when I want to”. It may not be as precious, but the magic of Takahashi’s details and the sheer thought that goes into any of his collections is so admirable.

He is indeed the master of high end outerwear as not only are his designs intricate, sharp and amazing, the functionality is just beyond any expectations from a high-end fashion brand. For instance, he uses custom materials which actually deflect rain. The hoods on his jackets are often able to be manipulated due to bendable wire lining the brim, so that you can always fully shield your face. I bought one of the parkas from FW07, which was my favorite of his outerwear-based collections and it’s so impressive on every level that in some ways, I almost look forward to these collections as much as ones such as Guru Guru and Grace.

The fact that the show took place in a frigid Japanese forest says it all, really. These clothes are functional foremost and just happen to have the added bonus of being an aesthetic dream as well. The color palette narrated similarly to a fire igniting and then extinguishing.

I am in love with the gradients; he’s done them on so many different fabrics and even the bags (!!!), which is so good. I love the shoes also although, I will admit that they’re a bit too close for comfort to those flats that Marni did a few seasons back with the contrasting black strap. These ones are bound to be cooler, though, so who really cares? :p

The cloaks are so incredible and I love how they’re styled with the metal helmet type of headgear… which is also an amazing element of the show. There aren’t many dresses but the ones that do make an appearance are totally precious, cut-wise as well as the fabrics, and added a nice ethereal air to the collection.

Accessories, as always, are to die for… the bags, gloves and stockings are all great. The detailing within some of the accessories is so intricate and it’s those little things that make Takahashi so special. Even in an outerwear collection, no element is left behind… everything is thoughtful and perfect down to the last detail.

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