After a few seasons of very busy and heavily trend-conscious collections, Tisci has seemed to strip away the heavily adorned garments and get back to his basics. I couldn’t be happier about this and while I didn’t hate the past few seasons, it was getting a little much. This season is so much better; I love how he has delivered a powerful and dramatic collection without all the unnecessary frills.
The collection looks very ‘now’, due to the Tisci detailing, but what I love the most is how he’s channeled Hubert Givenchy so well and the result is a beautiful thing. He’s done a wonderful job here at marrying vintage cuts with the contrasting elements such as the asymmetrical pieces, bead work and the use of fur.
Not only the use of fur… but the choices of furs he’s used for the designs are magnificent. Not only the fur but hair and feathers as well; the combined effect is something special. Check the video and the way the fur and feathers move – it’s so billowy and precious. I love the contrast of this with the structured pieces. The trousers, by the way, are amazing also and are cut to perfection.
The only thing I am not feeling is the lace interlude about midway through. I didn’t include any of them in the collage so I have to mention that they’re there. One even looks like a lace version of a Spring 2007 Christopher Kane dress… even down to the zipper. This section was odd, but thankfully brief, and the pros far outweigh the cons of this season anyway.
The casting of the majority of the models in the show is another thing that obviously can’t go unmentioned! Some really surprising faces turned up and I love the looks he paired each of them with; a really great element to the show.
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