Comme des Garçons Fall 2010 Paris

It's been said a million times, but Rei is just beyond talented. She is, at this point, so flawless and masterful in her skill and still so whimsical in her approach. For clothes that so many are quick to deem as 'messy' or 'silly', they're really anything but. Her designs and the construction of them are executed with an almost mind-blowing level of expertise and precision; she just is so good at what it is she does. This season, through careful construction and seam placement on such overbearing, voluminous materials, she manages to create such a fluid effect within each piece. The silhouette of each piece is so poetically ambivalent, having a simultaneous effect of protection/comfort and at the same time, such precise definition. As always, I am thrilled to see her tartan print make an appearance and lastly, I am mildly (ok, very) obsessed with the footwear.

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2010 Paris

Another constantly references her own past work, but this season was a full-on assault of early Demeulemeester goodness, and I love it. Undeniably and heavily drenched in a 1990's overtone, the collection is really tough and sexy but incredibly polished on the whole. True to form in the cycle of fashion, some of the elements here are so dated, that seeing them again after such a long absence, makes them look so fresh and appealing all over again. The accessories... just wow. No one can work a rooster feather like Ann (why does that sound dirty?) and the braided harnesses, necklaces and those gloves are infinitely appealing. Overall, I think this is such a successful revamp of early Ann and goes above and beyond with all of the newer elements she's managed to marry it with.

TAO Fall 2010 Paris

Tao is such a gem, not only within the CdG universe but in her own right entirely. Her style is very derivative, very Japanese but her signature design traits are so distinct that they speak so loudly, making her work instantly recognizable. In this collection, she does an amazing job at showcasing her unique abilities, such as the restrictive gathering, the skewed proportions and the unapologetic clash of colors, patterns and materials. Each piece of hers is so incredibly thoughtful and is a world of interest in and of itself and especially because of that, I am loving the runway styling; the heavy layering and general unusuality of the combinations just reinforce how powerful and fearless her vision is. I have such admiration and respect for her talent and always look forward to seeing what she'll grace us with, and couldn't be more thrilled by all of the beauty she's graced us with this season.

Junya Watanabe Fall 2010 Paris

Highly reminiscent of his Fall 2006 showing, Junya delivers another military-inspired collection, which is packed with one of the things he does best: outerwear. While FW06 was much more aggressive and rougher around the edges, it seems Junya took a much more polished and less amplified approach. The pieces are practical but still embody a ton of interest due to his mind-blowing construction skills and overall detailing. Junya's talent for creating jackets which are simultaneously flattering, appealing and functional is uncanny and it's nice that it's the focal point of this season. In addition to the outerwear, the skirts can't go unmentioned, as the range of shapes and lengths is fantastic. Aside from the furry Ugg boots which are obviously not pictured here, and the Jersey Shore tans, I really enjoy this collection. It's not the most magical or outrageous presentation we've seen from him but there's no denying that the clothing is beautiful and impressive, as always.

Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2010 Paris

Thankfully, this is not in the same vein as his Spring offering, which - and this pains me to say as a Yohji worshipper - was just not amazing. It wasn't BAD, but it was the first season I wouldn't sacrifice a limb to own most of. This season he is definitely back to his old self, without having actually returned to anything too familiar; it's quintessential Yohji... but at the same time has fresh techniques, proportions and the air of simplicity and confidence that we've come to expect from him. The pleating is amazing and I just adore the subtle deconstruction and the asymmetrical ease of it all.

Haider Ackermann Fall 2010 Paris

Haider Ackermann is just good... no bones about it. His vision is so distinct and his technique has evolved into something that can only be described as masterful. Instead of trend-hopping or going through an obvious metamorphosis each season, as I've said about a million times before, I much prefer designers who slowly nurture and progress upon their own special and unique vision and who could be a better example at this point of this than Haider? He is just spot on, from the cuts themselves to the level of intricacy that the collection descends into. I mean, lace effect laser-cut leather? It's just too beautiful for words. Everything here is simply so thoughtful, so impressive and exceeds all expectations without throwing us for a loop. In the end, these are empowering clothes women will want to wear and feel amazing in, which is what it's all about.

Rick Owens Fall 2010 Paris

My favorite kind of Rick is the old school, pre-Paris Rick, when his work was very raw and unapologetic... so, needless to say, I am loving this collection. It's so fun to see him make a dive back into his old graphic, severe style that gained him so much notoriety initially. This collection's look is so primal; like lemur priestesses, who would also kick your ass in a dark alley. I could do without the tights and some other things but I appreciate them because it reinforces the shameless confidence that the collection gives off as a whole. The fur pieces are nothing short of gorgeous and I really like the effect of the adorned pieces as well... and it pretty much goes without saying that the outerwear he shows here is, always has been and always will be amazing.

Sharon Wauchob Fall 2010 Paris

For some reason I am surprised by this collection, despite the fact that there's nothing relatively new here as far as Sharon is concerned. I guess it just feels really fresh and current, meanwhile tying in all of the sensibilities and distinct talent that she always encompasses. She's really pulled out all the stops, technique-wise, but keeps the collection as a whole very concise and cohesive. The color story is simply beautiful; rich, earthy tones paired with the severe black. The construction on everything is really just impeccable, from the structured outerwear to the intricate workings such as the weaved leather. Overall just a really great collection for the moment, perfectly executed with wit and plenty of integrity.

Dries Van Noten Fall 2010 Paris

While Dries is a master at mixing prints, combining unusual patterns and materials, all the while accomplishing it in such an effortless manner - what I really love is when he strips down to his basics like this, which he hasn't done in quite a few years. Sometimes I feel the busyness of his recent collections really overshadowed the core of what makes him just so good; it's the proportions, the ease, the deceptively simple pieces... all of which are cut to absolute perfection and topped off with the perfect detailing accessories and styling. To say I'd love to own and wear most of this is a total understatement... it's just gorgeous.

Limi Feu Fall 2010 Paris

Definitely one of my favorite collections from Limi since she transitioned to Paris a couple of years back, it is filled with masterful, playful, feminine yet severe and just plain covetable pieces. It's hard to ignore the Ann Demeulemeester influence on many of the looks, even down to the styling and similar hats... perhaps a homage of sorts? I'm not sure the intention, but the result is total perfection. Limi's style is always progressing and adapting but her voice is always so strong no matter the theme she's after. The feminine touch that she breathes into the bold silhouettes she cuts, always strikes such an admirable balance, creating an air of simultaneous severity and ease.

Sophia Kokosalaki Fall 2002

Ms. Kokosalaki’s latest collections have left me cold. It’s not that they’re that bad, it’s just that this stuff was that good. Her old collections really captured me – they were so severe, so spot on. Her ubiquitous details, signature shapes, overlapping panels and and just the overall brilliance of her concepts… it was all so directional and unmistakable. I wish I could get my claws on a ton of her older work as the pieces are so unique and relatively timeless. The basic pieces are tailored perfectly and I love the proportions on them… and of course, the geometric dresses and tops are obviously to die for. Perhaps some day she’ll return to making stuff in this vein but if not, it’s always nice to reflect upon anyway.

Haider Ackermann Spring 2010

Haider is just delicious. Clearly one of the only designers who sees draping not as a trend, but as an art form, he is taking his aesthetic to amazing new heights as each season passes. As I always say, I am a total sucker for evolutionary, yet consistent designers. I don’t mind knowing what to expect from someone – in fact, I admire and often times prefer someone who can push themselves to the limit, slowly expanding upon a specific vision. The cheesy expression “like a fine wine” didn’t come of out nowhere, after all.

The silhouettes are stunning and I love the fit of everything. He knows so well how to dress a woman, how to take advantage of her form, curves and allure and how to enhance them brilliantly. The contradictions within his work are really beautiful to me – the hard and the soft, the structured and the fluid, the revealing and the mysterious. So much complexity and thoughtfulness yet the result is so pure. I also like the details in this collection a lot; the unusual overlapping of fabric, the exaggerated and uniquely placed pockets, etc. Basically everything is really nicely done and couldn’t be more attractive, distinguished or divine.

Vanessa Bruno Spring 2010

Though SS10 wasn’t a ground-breaking season overall, it’s the individual triumphs that will make it a memorable one to me. Such as Ms. Hash returning to form, for example, and let us add another one to the list because this is definitely one of my favorite Vanessa Bruno collections, not just in seasons, but in the last few years. I had really been losing interest with each collection but this one is a total turnaround, which is just fabulous because, well, she is in fact fabulous.

I find the color palette so beautiful, I love these muted tones paired with the crisp white and structured black. There are countless covetable pieces throughout the collection and the styling of the show was perfection, really. She manages off-kilter cuts with finesse, such as the trousers pictured above which I’m in love with.

The accessories are so disarming and feminine and act as a beautiful compliment to the garments, rather than how most designers are leaning toward ultra-severe footwear and jewelry. So not only is this a beautiful collection but it’s definitely a breath of fresh air.

Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2010

I don’t usually waste time writing about the things that I don’t like, but this surpasses the realm of dislike and is in full-on offensive territory. How little respect does Rosso and his new team have for not only MMM’s fan base but for the man himself? This is supposed to be an improvement on Margiela’s slow-crafted, precise and directional vision? Please.

How despicable that he reckons we are so stupid that he can wipe out Margiela’s essence and sell this gimmicky bullshit and have it be as successful. This is not Diesel, man. They didn’t even manage to get the silhouettes right, never mind all of the precision, grace and integrity that Margiela had. They should have just shut the house down when he stepped down; do we really need to witness another sad slaughtering of someone’s good name, à la Helmut Lang?

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P.S. – while I’m ranting here: hey Gareth, please return to what made you so special in the first place. Don’t sell yourself short by becoming a bad gothic parody of Rick Owens. Still love you, though. <3

Comme des Garçons Spring 2010

Two words: fucking perfect. After the incredibly tough act to follow that was her Autumn collection, she’s back with another magical one. It’s hard to really comment on everything or else I’d be here all day, but of course the patchwork is the standout technique here and she’s executed it so flawlessly, so admirably. Amidst the masterful deconstruction and patchworking, there are a ton of great basics and other covetable pieces, which truly make the collection a home run on the whole.

The dresses are beyond beautiful, the trousers are cut to perfection, the shoes are a dream; this collection really thrives in all aspects. I am most obsessed with the trenches. I adore beyond words how she substitutes severe fabrics for very ethereal ones within her structured garments. The idea alone of using these delicate fabrics on outerwear is so precious, and the finished products are almost heartbreakingly beautiful.

The craftsmanship that goes into Rei’s collections is no doubt amazing but what is most touching to me is how she manages to convey and depict so clearly her messages of nostalgia, sentimentality and guarded beauty… it’s really something special.

Undercover Spring 2010

For me personally, Jun Takahashi’s sportswear collections are, albeit not as whimsical as some of his others, just as interesting as far as detail is concerned and even more so in their amazing functionality. Granted, one of the parkas from his FW07 collection is probably the most impressive garment I own in terms of its purposeful detailing, custom fabrics, numerous options for interchangeability. So I guess my fascination with that thing probably fuels my excitement toward his collections of this persuasion, but really his active/outerwear is just as thoughtful as any of his other types of pieces.

I love how he consistently cycles his collections, giving each of his aesthetics a season of it’s own to shine, instead of trying to over-diversify with a mix of everything in each one. It’s great not only that he has multiple styles, but for how one never suffers for or due to the other. Not to mention his menswear has been staggeringly good the past few seasons and I am loving how he’s created a cohesion in theme and color palette between the two lines.

This collection is current yet inventive and contains so many fantastic pieces. The progressive nature of his design works so well when he applies it toward function. Undercover’s aesthetic is so untainted, so devoid of trends and outside influence, yet manages to keep it exciting each season, while slowly reworking and refining the key pieces of the brand.This season’s simple presentation is really lovely with the sea of lights as the backdrop. If I had to pick something to replace it’d definitely be those clutches and bring back these bags instead. Otherwise… amazing pieces and proportions throughout, as always, and I am especially loving some of the jackets… which I’m sure are going to be to die for in person.

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2010

I am loving Ann so much this season for implementing things that dreams are made of – zippers, straps, headpieces, facial bindings, etc… well, my dreams, anyway. Aside from the accessories, there is so much happening within the clothing alone, yet the effect seems effortless. The proportions are nothing short of amazing and the maxi skirts are too perfect. She’s worked with the leather so well here and though there is a lot of it, I don’t find it overwhelming at all. Her choice of a print as well as her use of white couldn’t have been better as they are the perfect contrast to the overall rigidity. Another great element are the jackets which are slightly overpowered by the presentation, but look completely amazing. Overall I really like the sexiness that it exudes while maintaining her usual integrity.

TAO Comme des Garçons Spring 2010

Add another one on to the list of unexpectedness, but this one is most intriguing to me. As any long time TAO worshipper would be, I was sort of taken aback by the presentation alone. Not in a bad way, it is just so different than her usual runway vibe that it was a definite surprise. Looking beyond the styling, though, you can easily find a number of beautiful pieces and see the complex and inventive spirit that she is known for. There are a lot of nice basics as well as some really stand out pieces, which I’m sure the craftsmanship is amazing on, as always. The best parts for me this season are definitely the range of amazing textures, and of course… the boots.

Junya Watanabe Spring 2010

A very straightforward collection from Junya this season, but that is not necessarily a bad thing. Practicality can still be exciting, especially when someone of his calibre is performing the task. The man can cut a jacket, that’s one thing we know for sure and this collection is filled with great ones in terms of their flawless structure and no doubt their function. I’m not wild about basic leggings, particularly worn as pants, but Junya is one of the only designers who manages to present them in a way that doesn’t turn me off entirely. It goes without saying that the headpieces are brilliant, but I’ll say it anyway and the shoes are divine as well.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2010

While Limi asked “C’est un peu de Yohji Yamamoto?” on her SS10 invitations, perhaps it should have been done the other way around! This collection seems like some sort of unexpected homage to his daughter’s work, rather than his own. At any rate, it is sort of nice to see him do such an unexpected collection, though I find it strange in a time where sales are not so great. Interesting choice of detailing as well with the holes and peaked shoulders, which I can’t say I’m the biggest fan of. But overall there are some amazing pieces and I really love many of the proportions involved.