Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2010 Paris

Another constantly references her own past work, but this season was a full-on assault of early Demeulemeester goodness, and I love it. Undeniably and heavily drenched in a 1990's overtone, the collection is really tough and sexy but incredibly polished on the whole. True to form in the cycle of fashion, some of the elements here are so dated, that seeing them again after such a long absence, makes them look so fresh and appealing all over again. The accessories... just wow. No one can work a rooster feather like Ann (why does that sound dirty?) and the braided harnesses, necklaces and those gloves are infinitely appealing. Overall, I think this is such a successful revamp of early Ann and goes above and beyond with all of the newer elements she's managed to marry it with.

Ann D

I've been breaking these in for a few weeks and I just love them. They are beautiful, but beyond that, they go so well with everything from jeans to dresses. Just thought I'd post this up for anyone who's considering getting these as they're just great and in addition to looks, they're so comfortable as well.

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ETA - OOps... I just went to publish/respond to some comments but I accidentally clicked Reject. and according to Google, there is no way to recover them. >_<
I sincerely appreciate and enjoy responding to comments here so I just wanted to say sorry if you don't see your comment published.

Lots of love to you all.

xoxo

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2010

I am loving Ann so much this season for implementing things that dreams are made of – zippers, straps, headpieces, facial bindings, etc… well, my dreams, anyway. Aside from the accessories, there is so much happening within the clothing alone, yet the effect seems effortless. The proportions are nothing short of amazing and the maxi skirts are too perfect. She’s worked with the leather so well here and though there is a lot of it, I don’t find it overwhelming at all. Her choice of a print as well as her use of white couldn’t have been better as they are the perfect contrast to the overall rigidity. Another great element are the jackets which are slightly overpowered by the presentation, but look completely amazing. Overall I really like the sexiness that it exudes while maintaining her usual integrity.

Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Spring 2010

Wasn’t sure what to expect from Ms. Ann this season, but as per usual, I love it. I admit, I was expecting something heavier, more intricate, given the roll she’s been on with both lines over the last seasons, but I was really glad to see that it is a pretty stripped down and definitely something a bit different. I mean a bunch of shirtless men, who is complaining? So on to the clothes which are there – the jackets look beautiful . The accessories are so amazing… I love these (what appear to be) leather headbands and I am pretty much dying over the thin, silver harness pieces; they look so good styled with structured pieces. Though I love when she goes over the top, it’s collections like this which prove that you can strip it all down to the essence of Ann and it’s still going to be great.

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2004

There are about a million reasons to mull over this particular collection of Ann’s but most of all because it is so good. What prompted me the most, though, were the countless parallels between her FW09 collections (both the men’s and women’s) and this FW04 one. While most of her work, over time, clearly carries over from season to season, all the trademarks we’ve come to expect and love… the similarities between the two are pretty prominent. Who knows if it was intentional or not but either way, it’s sort of neat to draw parallels between the two.

And I know that I always say it, but I really adore designers who have a long-standing, distinct and recognizable style to their work, because I think that is where true creativity lies – in being able to expand and perfect upon a unique vision without hiding behind the superficial world of creating collections around industry trends. There are few people who have done so little altering to their general aesthetic as Ann has in all this time… but for as much as it looks similar at a quick glance, there is so much that has changed within.

The FW09 collections may well have had some pony hair boots instead of leather only, and they also may have had imperious furs and haughty knits and an overall air of luxuriousness… but this one has the same base designs – just minus the frills. There is just something about Ann’s work from this point and previous to it, that makes it stand up just as well. So, while her current work might technically be more refined and posses a new-found urbane air about it, (and is no doubt gorgeous)… it was the raw, disorderly and tousled aspects of her earlier work, that you can see here, that really made me fall in love with her initially.

Amongst this deliciously neutral color palette filled with gathered and bound garments amongst a sea of structured pieces, all of which layered and styled to perfection, it’s the heavy dose of rickety disobedience that gives it that extra energy that appeals to me so much. There is not a ton of fur but what fur is there, is used wisely and provides a nice extra texture, in combination with the matte fabrics and the masterfully placed leather bits, which appear with such lovely effulgence in the right light.

This is sort of unrelated to this specific collection but one thing about Ann in general, that kind of cracks me up, is how she has decidely chosen equestrian boots and black leather gloves as the only consistent accessories that matter, for ages now (and can it really be argued?!)… but when she decides to actually do jewelry – she comes at us with the most insanely intricate and decadent necklaces/earrings known to man.

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2009

Bringing us one of the many glorious collections of the day was Ms. Demeulemeester, who has answered my prayers with this collection. The amount of jealously I felt when the men’s collection had pony hair boots and body-engulfing knits is indescribable… as is the amount of joy I felt when I laid eyes on this. Because as it turns out, she has not forgotten her ovary-clad brethren, aterall… and we, too, get a chance to partake in the heaven that must be wearing pony hair riding boots made by the mother of all equestrian boot makers.

I love the sex appeal that this collection gives off, with the super bondage inspired leather corsets as well as the binding going on with some of the pieces as well. I think that mixing overtly sexy with masculine pieces always looks good but here it is particularly appealing as Ann’s pieces are so distinct in their shape and construction.

The nature references are really beautiful as well and I think they were a great choice. Feather headpieces which looked sort of like antlers, paired with the structured feel of her clothes is a unique and lovely combination. I am really glad to see these kind of things going on and to see her moving right along, theme-wise, from season to season again in both of her lines.

I can’t not mention the detailing at least briefly. Once again, I have to mention the binding and restrictions on some of the pieces. I am a total sucker for it in general, and of course I liked it in her SS09 but I think it fits better here; the result is so stunning. Also the beading is gorgeous and I can’t wait to examine those pieces close up.

Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Fall 2009

I really loved Ann’s menswear collection this year, and I guess if you’ve looked at the images above, it is no surprise why. The overall mood is so romantic without being cheesy; it’s reall lovely. Also, I think this collection is a step in the right direction for her, as I was getting quite bored with the whole purple thing that kept continuing over. While this is very much the Ann we all know and love, it is a notch above what she’s been doing (in both her men’s and women’s lines) for the last couple of years.

The color palette is a dream and couldn’t be more suited to the pieces themselves. I really like all of the jackets she’s shown here. While they’re nothing new, they’re perfectly suited for the vibe she’s created with this collection. Also, the fabrics she used for them – and in the collection as a whole – are nothing short of perfect; these rich, strong, luxurious fabrics really do everything to enhance the designs and help create the perfect silhouettes.

Aside from amazing fabrics, her great choice of materials did not stop there. A few fur pieces made an appearance and really step up the whole collection. Texture wise, there is so much going on within these individual fur garments; they’re truly an aesthetic treat in addition to surely feeling divine to the touch.

Another element that makes this a truly fantastic collection is without a doubt the knitwear! I can hardly believe the size and volume of some of these knitted pieces. In the closeups, the patterns within the knit look intricate, clean and so soft – meanwhile overall creating a top-heavy and amazing silhouette.

To counterbalance the elaborate tops, are plenty of wonderful boots, Ann style. Her more classic models make a reappearance this season as well as plenty of new ones to keep breaking the bank of her fans, including an absolutely irresistible pair of pony hair equestrian boots. The kind of boot that make me wish I were a male, just to be able to wear them; they are decadent and the light shines off them brilliantly.

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2009

Such a surprising collection from Ann this season! I love her but I am so glad she took on a re-invention of sorts this Spring. Her last collection was great, because her work is great, but it was getting to be very same-y without much expansion. She’s really outdone herself here… while breathing much new life into her aesthetic, she’s managed to keep the core of what, for many, Ann D. is all about (which is something many other designers could take a cue from). The color palette is really varied; I’m not the biggest fan of that orange but boy am I glad it’s in there. The stripes are always something I love to see popping up in her clothes because I just love how she works them. Accessories are also super fresh here; the necklaces are absolutely out of this world. The shoes are great although they remind me a bit of the lace-effect Alaia’s… though that isn’t a terrible thing. The menswear is beautiful as well; handsome and a bit refined but with much of her signature quirkiness maintained. Such a great collection… go Ann!