Margaret Howell Fall 2009

After such disasters as Charles Anastase today (ok maybe not a disaster but I didn’t like it as much as I anticipated I would), Margaret Howell’s collection was absolutely a dream. Not only by contrast, however… the pieces are lovely on their own, as is the styling of the show as a whole. I love the color palette so much; the clean tones are really refreshing. As always her flair for using menswear influences in her designs is my favorite part. The influences are not overt to the point where the clothing becomes androgynous but none the less, the menswear influence is apparent still, and I admire her ability to do this.

The proportions are one of my favorite attributes of the collection, as well. The fabrics she chose are perfection in this regard, as they give the beautiful silhouettes an air of ease, comfort and much appeal. The long white shirt-dress is so, so Limi Feu but otherwise no complaints really. I love that she offers up a lot of diversity within the pieces themselves and then further showcases this fact with the styling, as it showcases the great versatility of the pieces.

Oh, and speaking of the styling: it’s perfection. It’s definitely so refreshing to see simple but strategic styling which enhances the clothing’s aesthetics as well as functionality. The shoes are so adorable in their simplicity and suit the collection so well. Also I can’t not mention the hats before I finish. I almost really love the hats, but just wish they were very slightly less squared on the top as they resemble a cowboy hat a bit too much at the moment. I like the brim size of them, however… not small but not floppy either. All in all, this was probably one of the most all-around solid collections of the womenswear season thus far.

Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Fall 2009

I really loved Ann’s menswear collection this year, and I guess if you’ve looked at the images above, it is no surprise why. The overall mood is so romantic without being cheesy; it’s reall lovely. Also, I think this collection is a step in the right direction for her, as I was getting quite bored with the whole purple thing that kept continuing over. While this is very much the Ann we all know and love, it is a notch above what she’s been doing (in both her men’s and women’s lines) for the last couple of years.

The color palette is a dream and couldn’t be more suited to the pieces themselves. I really like all of the jackets she’s shown here. While they’re nothing new, they’re perfectly suited for the vibe she’s created with this collection. Also, the fabrics she used for them – and in the collection as a whole – are nothing short of perfect; these rich, strong, luxurious fabrics really do everything to enhance the designs and help create the perfect silhouettes.

Aside from amazing fabrics, her great choice of materials did not stop there. A few fur pieces made an appearance and really step up the whole collection. Texture wise, there is so much going on within these individual fur garments; they’re truly an aesthetic treat in addition to surely feeling divine to the touch.

Another element that makes this a truly fantastic collection is without a doubt the knitwear! I can hardly believe the size and volume of some of these knitted pieces. In the closeups, the patterns within the knit look intricate, clean and so soft – meanwhile overall creating a top-heavy and amazing silhouette.

To counterbalance the elaborate tops, are plenty of wonderful boots, Ann style. Her more classic models make a reappearance this season as well as plenty of new ones to keep breaking the bank of her fans, including an absolutely irresistible pair of pony hair equestrian boots. The kind of boot that make me wish I were a male, just to be able to wear them; they are decadent and the light shines off them brilliantly.

Miharayasuhiro Fall 2009

Yasuhiro’s collection was certainly one of the most easy on the eyes out of what we saw this season. With the soft neutral color palette and overall air of comfort and ease, there’s not much to dislike here.

First of all, the trousers are amazing. The cut is perfect and also the drop crotch is pulled off flawlessly; doesn’t come across as too trendy or gimmicky. Aside from the drop crotch ones, the skinny cut ones look fantastic as well as the cropped trousers. There is a lot to admire here but I just had to mention the pants right off the bat.

The outerwear is really nice as well, and is very cohesive with the collection as a whole. Many of the pieces could be styled either in a casual or more dressed up looking way, and with the cost of high end designer outerwear, versatility is truly an important factor. But enough with all that practicality nonsense – the pieces look mighty good, which is the most important thing, right?

The accessories are really the icing on the cake. While I don’t love them all personally, I very much appreciate the craftsmanship that’s gone in; they have an aged look to them which increases their appeal quite a bit. I like the quirkiness of the embellishments and hardware… it all adds a very cool touch to the collection.

Gareth Pugh Menswear Fall 2009

Well, it has happened! Gareth has shown his first all-menswear collection in Paris and in my opinion, it went off quite well. The collection isn’t nearly as androgynous as I was anticipating, but I can definitely appreciate where (I speculate) that he is coming from here.

As far as the theme… well, let’s face it, you’d have to be blind not to notice the industrial/goth/club overtones. I think perhaps he could have taken a less literal approach – but I have to say, that is one of my only gripes. I think the overtness of such a throwback and rebellious genre may not work in his best interests as far as how it will be perceived by others. However, I am fine with it, but then again, I am pretty sure he and I have similar backgrounds as far as that whole scene goes.

Given that he’s been producing and showing menswear for a while now, I wasn’t sure what to expect from a solo mens show – particularly after the extravagant SS09 womenswear collection he just graced us with. While I don't think this is the greatest collection ever, I do think it’s pretty impressive that this FW09 menswear line was not only a complete departure from his SS09 womens, but it was actually a progression upon the menswear he’s been working at for quite some time now.

He went with the patent leather triangle garments to act as the centerpiece of the collection, providing a great array of different takes on the design, including suits, trenches, puffy winter jackets, pants, etc. It’s safe to say the best part of this is the outerwear, and surely that’s no accident. After owning one of these pieces – I have to say I am really excited about the prospect of more. But unfortunately, I think people who haven’t handled or worn his pieces easily write them off as ‘unwearable’, when really they’re anything but.

Pugh’s work is funded in part by Rick Owens and in turn, is produced at the prestigious Olmar+Mirta factory – the same place as Rick’s stuff is made. When people say his stuff looks cheap and poorly constructed, it’s a sure sign they’ve never worn Pugh’s stuff themselves, as the construction is actually quite great and the materials are the same ones that are used in Rick’s lines.

I also have to mention the boots, which are phenomenal. I love severe and heavy footwear and, well… who doesn’t love a good skullkicker type of boot, anyway?

overall – bravo to Gareth. Can’t wait to see what he’s got lined up for his next womenswear show

Number (N)ine Fall 2009 "A Closed Feeling"

I’ve come to not speculate in advance on N(N) shows because frankly there is no point anymore. What was once a brand who came a bit close to falling in a niche, has emerged as one with fully themed collections which, at the very least, have been entertaining. Good thing I didn’t bother speculating because I am not sure I would have ventured into the ballpark of this collection. Constructed out of an array of textures and fabrics that look eerily similar to my grandmother’s sofas, which have been encased under clear vinyl slip covers for the last fifty years... this collection is a special one to say the least.

From the all-too-obvious influences Miyashita took here, to the maturity in the silhouette, there is a lot to think about and a lot to take in aesthetically. The silhouettes are so lovely; the capes and cuts of the jackets are divine. Styling and proportion-wise, how could I not love this? The top-heavy shape due to the hats and structured upper half of the body paired with a skirt or cropped trouser and boot; it’s definitely such a great look.

The textures, patterns, fabrics, embellishment, fringe – there are a million things that draw the eye in… but it’s all so cohesive and beautiful. The color palette is seriously a dream; I adore the, for lack of a better term, earthy tones, topped off with the muted colors. The styling is heavy but isn’t it always with N(N)? For me, it works.

The emotional impact of this collection is so strong - the array of different textures, like wearing every single thing in the house at once. The paranoia, the reclusive factor, the hiding, the beauty... it's just a masterpiece from head to toe, beginning to end. Eternal thanks to Miyashita for being beyond brilliant.

Today is only just day 2 of Paris as well – lots more shows on the way.