Txell Miras Fall 2010 London

I was happy to learn that Txell showed in London this season as part of a select group of designers and I thought her collection was lovely. It is definitely toned down and much more straightforward than her older work, and while I do miss the geometric overtones and plays on dimension that we have seen from her in the past, this is still obviously a really nice collection with a lot of great pieces, particularly the outerwear which looks fantastic. I love the styling as well here; the proportions are really interesting. Overall, I like it... though it lacks the distinction of her past works but look forward to see what direction she'll be taking in the future.

MeadhamKirchhoff Spring 2010

I’ll admit off the bat that I am biased in my love for this collection, as this is pretty much in the vein of the aesthetic I gravitate toward most and is also how I like to dress… however, I think it’s beautiful from an objective standpoint as well. The gathering and pintucking are my favorite bits, but there are also so many unique details such as the trousers with zippers down the front. The difference contrast between certain fabrics used, plus the brilliant runway styling really grab the attention. I adore the bag so much and how it echoes the design of some of the clothing here as well. Really liking this as a whole and will definitely be picking up a thing or two.

Charles Anastase Spring 2010

After what was an uncharacteristic, let down of a collection last season, in my opinion anyways, Charles is BACK and as good as ever. This collection screams his name; all of the attributes we know and love from this brand are representing here and intertwined with a bunch of fresh concepts that all come together so beautifully. He has a real knack for designing fresh, young clothing without crossing the line in to tacky/trashy territory… meanwhile keeping it enticing, just in a more modest way… and after all, as far as I am concerned, modesty is beauty. His silhouettes never falter but this season they’re even more enhanced and exaggerated while remaining slightly off kilter, which of course, I love. The colors are to die for as well – crisp neutrals with the splashes of yellow/orange/red-ish tones. It goes without saying that the dresses are amazing, but the outerwear is right up to par with them.

Lina Osterman Fall 2009

This collection has so many gorgeous textures that I barely know which one to comment on first. Ok, I do… it’s the lace. Most times when I see this get used, it’s usually on a horrible body con dress or something to that effect – but how the designer worked with it here is so refreshing. Speaking of the designer, she is Lina Osterman, a former apprentice to artisans Margiela and Laugesen, who has started this second line of her own as a means to work outside of the confines of her Pudel line. And taking advtange of that fact, she is; as I said before this is just a textural treat and is filled to the brim with covetable pieces. I am particularly in love with the dress and knits. The linear detailing on some of the pieces is something special, and the fact that it is black detailing on black fabric, in turn adds quite a bit of depth and additional texture to the pieces. I think the birth of Osterman’s second line to further her creative endeavors has proved to be a great idea and I can’t wait to see what the future holds for her – and to see what she has for us in the future.

stockists: UK - Tokyo / for more info please visit her website.

Komakino Fall 2009

Since founding the label Komakino in 2005, husband and wife duo Fe + Jin have been off to a good start, having already collaborated with Levi’s Korea and putting on a few special presentations to show their collections from the last few seasons in places such as London and Tokyo. This winter’s presentation however, shifted them into a new bracket for me. I find their works this season to be less literal with the political overtones – and more so delving deeper into more complex construction and more durable and diverse materials. The range of pieces this season is great as well; lots of nice outerwear with distinct detailing, as well as some attractive footwear. I particularly enjoy the silhouette and their diligence when it comes to attention to proportion and form – it is an attribute that sets them apart from many of the other brands in the same aesthetic category.

Stockists: Tokyo – Hong Kong – London

please visit their website for more information

Margaret Howell Fall 2009

After such disasters as Charles Anastase today (ok maybe not a disaster but I didn’t like it as much as I anticipated I would), Margaret Howell’s collection was absolutely a dream. Not only by contrast, however… the pieces are lovely on their own, as is the styling of the show as a whole. I love the color palette so much; the clean tones are really refreshing. As always her flair for using menswear influences in her designs is my favorite part. The influences are not overt to the point where the clothing becomes androgynous but none the less, the menswear influence is apparent still, and I admire her ability to do this.

The proportions are one of my favorite attributes of the collection, as well. The fabrics she chose are perfection in this regard, as they give the beautiful silhouettes an air of ease, comfort and much appeal. The long white shirt-dress is so, so Limi Feu but otherwise no complaints really. I love that she offers up a lot of diversity within the pieces themselves and then further showcases this fact with the styling, as it showcases the great versatility of the pieces.

Oh, and speaking of the styling: it’s perfection. It’s definitely so refreshing to see simple but strategic styling which enhances the clothing’s aesthetics as well as functionality. The shoes are so adorable in their simplicity and suit the collection so well. Also I can’t not mention the hats before I finish. I almost really love the hats, but just wish they were very slightly less squared on the top as they resemble a cowboy hat a bit too much at the moment. I like the brim size of them, however… not small but not floppy either. All in all, this was probably one of the most all-around solid collections of the womenswear season thus far.