Haider Ackermann Fall 2010 Paris

Haider Ackermann is just good... no bones about it. His vision is so distinct and his technique has evolved into something that can only be described as masterful. Instead of trend-hopping or going through an obvious metamorphosis each season, as I've said about a million times before, I much prefer designers who slowly nurture and progress upon their own special and unique vision and who could be a better example at this point of this than Haider? He is just spot on, from the cuts themselves to the level of intricacy that the collection descends into. I mean, lace effect laser-cut leather? It's just too beautiful for words. Everything here is simply so thoughtful, so impressive and exceeds all expectations without throwing us for a loop. In the end, these are empowering clothes women will want to wear and feel amazing in, which is what it's all about.

Haider Ackermann Spring 2010

Haider is just delicious. Clearly one of the only designers who sees draping not as a trend, but as an art form, he is taking his aesthetic to amazing new heights as each season passes. As I always say, I am a total sucker for evolutionary, yet consistent designers. I don’t mind knowing what to expect from someone – in fact, I admire and often times prefer someone who can push themselves to the limit, slowly expanding upon a specific vision. The cheesy expression “like a fine wine” didn’t come of out nowhere, after all.

The silhouettes are stunning and I love the fit of everything. He knows so well how to dress a woman, how to take advantage of her form, curves and allure and how to enhance them brilliantly. The contradictions within his work are really beautiful to me – the hard and the soft, the structured and the fluid, the revealing and the mysterious. So much complexity and thoughtfulness yet the result is so pure. I also like the details in this collection a lot; the unusual overlapping of fabric, the exaggerated and uniquely placed pockets, etc. Basically everything is really nicely done and couldn’t be more attractive, distinguished or divine.

Haider Ackermann Fall 2009

Well, it’s yet another brilliant offering from Mr. Ackermann this season. His clothes are always so sexy to me and this season is no exception. Not only is the color palette deep and gorgeous, it compliments his work so well; the rich tones vamp up the luxe factor a great deal. The way he does sexy is so decadent and comfortable in your own skin type of sexy – without venturing into vulgar or tacky territory.

The Ackermann girl is a strong one, and the medieval theme and detailing here only furthers that vibe. Also the juxtaposition of delicately draped pieces paired with such a ‘tough’ embellishment is really lovely. He is one of the best at gathering and draping but I am loving his progression… he still includes all the things we love him for but it’s obvious that he’s leveling up.

The footwear, like many other shows (not that I’m complaining!), consists of super serious over the knee boots, as well as some other various boots. I am obsessed with how he styles his shows… it’s so clean, so modest and just perfect looking. The hair slicked back and the lack of make up is what I adore because it really drives the point home that, as far as he is concerned, sexy is not synonymous with the words overdone or trashy. I love that, because as far as I am concerned (always have been and always will be)… modesty is beauty.

I can’t stop without mentioning his jackets, though. There is just something about the way he cuts them and the way they fit is total perfection. The materials he uses are always really good, the construction is of course out of this world, but it’s always the details that really seal the deal… just great.

Haider Ackermann Spring 2009

I think designers such as Ackermann, Margiela and Rick Owens are so important in the process of reshaping the perception of what is considered sexy and broadening the boundaries of traditional beauty. I admire Ackermann’s vision of a sexy woman; she is confident, strong and comfortable with herself enough to wear clothes which shift the eye away from a traditional ’sexy’ silhouette. Much like designers such as Margiela, he takes a different approach to enhancing the female form, by giving it a strong upper body. In the same token, his overall aesthetic is constructed to be so overtly sensual that the strong silhouettes work incredibly well to enhance that aspect. He strikes the perfect balance between structure and draping and the fabrics he uses are so rich and luxurious. I also appreciate the lack of range he presents in this collection… the look isn’t maybe something you could wear to work, and it’s not for everyone. However, you have to applaud the focus that was put in to creating one concise vision; it shows and the result is phenomenal.