Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2010

I don’t usually waste time writing about the things that I don’t like, but this surpasses the realm of dislike and is in full-on offensive territory. How little respect does Rosso and his new team have for not only MMM’s fan base but for the man himself? This is supposed to be an improvement on Margiela’s slow-crafted, precise and directional vision? Please.

How despicable that he reckons we are so stupid that he can wipe out Margiela’s essence and sell this gimmicky bullshit and have it be as successful. This is not Diesel, man. They didn’t even manage to get the silhouettes right, never mind all of the precision, grace and integrity that Margiela had. They should have just shut the house down when he stepped down; do we really need to witness another sad slaughtering of someone’s good name, à la Helmut Lang?

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P.S. – while I’m ranting here: hey Gareth, please return to what made you so special in the first place. Don’t sell yourself short by becoming a bad gothic parody of Rick Owens. Still love you, though. <3

Maison Martin Margiela Menswear Spring 2010

The menswear collection that Margiela bestows upon us may have a completely different aesthetic from their womenswear lines but they’re equally as great. There are few houses that can cut a jacket like Margiela do – whether for the severe womens line or for their more relaxed menswear and this season is filled to the brim with gorgeous ones. Cream and white is, of course, one of my favorite color combinations and I have been overjoyed at the amount of collections which utilized the combo this season; it is such a good look, particularly when coupled with other muted tones. I am so in love with the huge floral brooches as well as the dye work on some of the trousers aand jackets… can’t wait to see them close up. Maybe this stuff isn’t for everybody but the Margiela man is so sexy to me and I think this collection is just about perfect.

Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2009 - Anniversary collection

This collection is a riot. It really is. First of all, happy anniversary to one of the industry’s greats! What better way is there to celebrate the most well-known recent works of one of our most beloved (and cheekiest) designers than to have a larger-than-life sized walking cake? We see a showcase of the things he’s been best known for in recent years: the extended and raised shoulders, the humor, the art, etc. I think perhaps it could have been slightly less humorous and he could have possibly put a new twist on some of his concepts – particularly since half the designers in Paris seem to be taking a stab at MMM shoulders – but none the less it’s a joy to look at if you’re a fan of his. The hirsute pieces are absolutely hilarious and I love the backwards styling and all of the props. Here’s to many more decades…