Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2010 Paris

Thankfully, this is not in the same vein as his Spring offering, which - and this pains me to say as a Yohji worshipper - was just not amazing. It wasn't BAD, but it was the first season I wouldn't sacrifice a limb to own most of. This season he is definitely back to his old self, without having actually returned to anything too familiar; it's quintessential Yohji... but at the same time has fresh techniques, proportions and the air of simplicity and confidence that we've come to expect from him. The pleating is amazing and I just adore the subtle deconstruction and the asymmetrical ease of it all.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2010

While Limi asked “C’est un peu de Yohji Yamamoto?” on her SS10 invitations, perhaps it should have been done the other way around! This collection seems like some sort of unexpected homage to his daughter’s work, rather than his own. At any rate, it is sort of nice to see him do such an unexpected collection, though I find it strange in a time where sales are not so great. Interesting choice of detailing as well with the holes and peaked shoulders, which I can’t say I’m the biggest fan of. But overall there are some amazing pieces and I really love many of the proportions involved.

A Mini Shop / Anastasia Boutique

As we all know, the US is severely impaired when it comes to shops which carry some of the more obscure brands we love, but fortunately a new one has surfaced, A Mini Shop. They carry some of my favorite labels, and hopefully yours as well, if you like the aesthetic of my blog. They’ve been kind enough to offer you 30% off (as well as free shipping for US customers!) on their array of Yohji Yamamoto, Undercover, Limi Feu, Junya Watanabe and much more, so take a look at what they’ve got in stock when you get the chance.

xoxo

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2009

To make a terrible ‘word to the Y’s’ joke or not? Anyways, I thought this season’s Y’s collection was a beauty, but I guess that’s no surprise. I love that function is such a huge part in this line but that the clothes are always gorgeous even that they never look as though they’re from a ’secondary’ line. Lately I have been obsessing over ankle-length shirtdresses so I am beyond thrilled to see the denim one shown here and can’t wait to get my mitts on it. The proportions this season are so beautiful and beyond what I’ve shown in the image above, there are a lot more slim fitting pieces in the collection as a whole, so a really nice range of pieces overall. The footwear is really nice as well, particularly the boots; the black and white docs are gorgeous.

Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme Spring 2010

Perhaps one of the most practical and smart, meanwhile undeniably appealing, shows of the season, Yohji’s Spring collection is definitely a great one. Not only because I’m insufferably biased when it comes to the Yamamotos, because that doesn’t always apply to YYPH collections (sometimes I just don’t like them), but because this is a really good Spring collection – especially for a time when we’re all looking to spend our money a little bit more wisely. I like the lack of a runway show and the humble presentation, the practicality and ease of the clothing. Aesthetically speaking, the collection is fantastic in this right as well; lovely silhouettes on overall comfortable looking outfits, comprised of loads of gorgeous basic pieces.

Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2009

Whenever Yohji sees red, we see sheer perfection.

Needless to say, this collection is simply magical, from beginning to end. Right off the back, we’re greeted with the usual: a bunch of understated but flawless, classic Yohji looks. The fabrics for this season are fab. Whenever he works with a more delicate fabric, not only are the details fantastic, but the result of how the garments look in motion is off-the-charts gorgeous.

Speaking of details, this season is no different in that he is, time and time again, one of the masters. In this collection in particular, off the bat I immediately fall in love with the raw, unhemmed edges on some of the pieces, the gathering, the overlapping panels of the jackets, surprise placement of pockets (!!!) and all the other fantastic details. But of course, when it comes to Yohji… the exterior details are only half the journey. A lot of why I admire him so much is that the clothing is so personal… what you see on the outside is only a small part of the story. For instance, his garments are often transformable; having extra buttons in odd places, so that you can readjust the entire garment, totally transforming the silhouette. It’s things like this that will always make him my favorite… because his works go above the call of duty and change the ideas of what clothing should be about.

Anyways I am going off on one here, so keeping with this actual collection… I’ll get back on track and mention the way certain pieces are dyed because it looks so stunning. I love when garments are dyed this way – trailing off to create a small gradient effect – and it’s such a good element to add to Yohji’s fluid designs. Also the styling of the show is impeccable as always… even coordinating the hair, which is also dyed in patches, with the clothing. The pale white faces only make the red and black color palette all the more stunning and the shoes are a perfect attribute as well.

Ok, let’s face it… anyone who knows me knows I am a Yohji freak, so, as usual… I don’t have any negative words, gripes, or comparisons to spew. NOT because I have a blind love for him and his work – but because he is a god amongst men and he is simply just that good.

Y-3 Fall 2009

I swear I am not only posting about Y-3 because I’d rather be subjected to prolonged torture than to write about collections like Marc Jacobs or Alexander Wang. Even Preen, who I was looking forward to, sucked this season… so it’s nice that certain shows such as Y-3 were pleasantly surprising. Well, I have been glad with the progression of the brand over recent seasons now but I think this collection really shows the brand has come into it’s own. I mean, even I love it – and I have a severe to alarming fundamental aversion to all things sneakers and sportswear.

Of course, I have to mention first about these adorable children on the runway. I love that the clothes for kids are very sort of common looking overall – but where the Yamamoto genius lies is in the proportions and silhouette. The plays on volume and non conventional lengths but the clothing stays within a ‘friendly’ color palette and uses fabrics that are comfortable and easy to care for, so these designs are still completely feasible and right for the brand.

The rest of the collection was nothing to shake a stick at, though; I’d actually wear a ton of the pieces! I love how Y-3 brings the signature YY combined element of class and unusuality to even a genre like sportswear, which is usually hideous (hello, D-Squared!) and makes it look so slick. I am also loving the runway styling and I like the fact that it’s presented in such a way that blurs the line between the functionality and the aesthetics of the clothing.

Yohji Yamamoto Y's Spring 2009

Another Y’s collection, another success. As usual, the silhouettes are grand, and while they’re often not as dramatic as YY’s, it doesn’t necessarily mean they’re a step down. Y’s is one of the few labels I have a hard time swallowing when someone refers to it as a diffusion label – because I think the aesthetic is so consistently strong and impressive that it really has it’s own legs to stand on without being constantly compared or downgraded by being referred to as diffusion.

At any rate, these clothes are gorgeous as usual. The dresses and skirts are so beautiful and the fabrics look incredible as well. Everything looks extremely comfortable and the fabrics, delicate or not, drape wonderfully. The trousers are all cut to perfection and I love the color palette for spring as well.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2003

One of my favorite collections, this Spring 2003 offering of his was definitely one to remember. As he often does, this collection is a bit of a culmination of past techniques (and retrospectively speaking – future ones too) but it is still pretty stand-out, in my opinion. It is really refined and incredibly directional. I always seem to fall for his very narrowly conceptual collections over the varied ones, I’ve noticed, although they’re all delicious.

First of all, I love collars… and this collection has all sorts and they’re either perfectly understated or brilliantly – and in the most effortless of manners – exaggerated. The overall silhouette is a comfortable one but, much like Spring 2009, has a ton of femininity sprinkled throughout the androgynous feel. Another thing I enjoy about this collection is the use of transparency as it’s very subtle yet makes it’s presence in really lovely places; he’s always quite good at the voluminous transparency but I think the way it’s used in an understated manner here is really nice.

As is no surprise, I also am a huge fan of the styling here, and think some of Tao’s collections are rather reminiscent of it. It’s very clean and straight-forward in it’s presentation, as his shows usually are. I really like the understated but ‘pretty’ aspects of it. The pink lipstick and loose finger wave styling of the hair paired with vintage-inspired headpieces really bring it all full circle.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2009

Although I adore his autumn shows, Yohji’s spring collections always seem to be my very favorite. There was a lot to live up to after last spring’s show and he definitely came through with this one. The black and white color palette always suits his work perfectly as there’s so much brilliance in each piece, that sometimes adding color is almost a distraction from his amazing work. Pale, haunting makeup on the models do all to enhance the great vibe of this show. Light, thin fabrics make the clothes wonderful for warmer weather and do much for the potential of layering.

His flair for asymmetry is always impressive, no matter how many times I see it in his work, it never gets old. He’s got the ability to do it with such class… it never comes close to looking juvenile. The long white dresses are incredible, in theory and in execution; they’re so new, but so Yohji all the same. I don’t even like sunglasses (save for the L’incognitos) but I can’t deny the appeal of these ones he’s used here… they’re really nice in shape and just interesting overall and not to mention they suit his aesthetic perfectly. The belts are also something to be spoken of… whether in an accentual white or in black, they definitely add a subtle but great statement to the looks.