I was looking back through some of Richard Serra's sculptures recently and noticed immediately that they reminded me of something I'd seen since the last time I'd looked... the bracelets from Rick Owens S/S 10 collection. They are nearly identical in shape and structure to Serra's works, particularly the one pictured above. I can't be positive that Rick intentionally derived inspiration from Serra but if so, I definitely think he did well at translating and conveying the structures into a wearable medium. And if not, it's an interesting and striking comparison, none the less.

Rick Owens Fall 2010 Paris

My favorite kind of Rick is the old school, pre-Paris Rick, when his work was very raw and unapologetic... so, needless to say, I am loving this collection. It's so fun to see him make a dive back into his old graphic, severe style that gained him so much notoriety initially. This collection's look is so primal; like lemur priestesses, who would also kick your ass in a dark alley. I could do without the tights and some other things but I appreciate them because it reinforces the shameless confidence that the collection gives off as a whole. The fur pieces are nothing short of gorgeous and I really like the effect of the adorned pieces as well... and it pretty much goes without saying that the outerwear he shows here is, always has been and always will be amazing.

Cruella x Rick Owens

She immediately flung it off her head but it was fabulous for the moment.

Rick Owens Spring 2010

It is probably not surprising to read that I am in love with this, but with good reason, no? Conjuring up a perfect marriage of classic and new concepts, Mr. Owens brings forth a flawless and super fresh Spring collection for us to feast our eyes and wallets on. Well, at least being broke will have seldom looked so good.

He’s shed some new light on his ubiquitous basics by changing up the cuts and shifting even further into a geometrical realm and tastefully evolving away from the fairly formless territory that he was becoming notorious for. He’s always had great structured jackets, but it’s lovely to see the structure and form making a powerful presence in his work as a whole. I guess when the world is on your coattails, it’s as good a time as ever to morph into something even more exciting. The shapes here are so stunning and the silhouettes are wildly intriguing as a result.

The footwear is also really interesting; some brand new ideas, along with some in the same vein of the recent past collections. The thing I like the most is that they strike a nice balance between the ultra dramatic footwear he’s done and something more minimal… but without losing any of the magic that makes his footwear so unique in the first place.

Rick Owens Furniture

Rick Owens has created some new furniture for an upcoming exhibit, which will be showcased alongside some of his previous works. He seems to employ many of the same inspirations he does with his clothing, into his furniture. It, like his garments, is very structured and animalistic. I wish I could pop over to check out the exhibit but that’s definitely not happening in less than 2 weeks. But anyone in the London area who stops by – I’d love to hear what you think of it!

Sept. 9th @ Sebastian+Barquet

PS – Rick… when will you come out with a bedding line? I’m trying to sleep on some Lilies sheets!

Rick Owens Fall 2009

There is so much beauty here that I barely know where to begin… although I guess the stunning color palette is as good a place to start as any. The opening barrage of heavy black looks progress to ascend into pale blue-ish grey pieces, leading the collection into an all-out galactic, evil, ice princess assault. The fact that muted neutrals are used as accentual colors here is also something worth mentioning. It is all so lovely, a true visual pleasure. Despite the lack of dark colors, his pieces still contain a lot of depth and richness.

Aside from the colors, I am absolutely dying over the cuts. Sure, there are a handful or two of cuts we have seen from Rick before… but instead of simply recycling the designs, he definitely tweaks and refines the outerwear, season by season. One of the things I’m actually the most enamored about here is how he has really got everything so perfect this time around. There are some obvious experiments but mostly everything just looks so refined and well polished – but still maintains the hard edge we know and love his work for. Just beautiful, really.

Owens has such an uncanny ability to rework the standard female silhouette – and I truly don’t think he is recognized enough for this talent. The way he deconstructs, and then completely rebuilds the silhouette and totally distorts the proportions… frankly, it’s nothing short of phenomenal. It’s like the materialistic equivalent of what the early cubists did for modern art and it truly surprises me this genius aspect of his design is often overlooked. It’s such a feat, really.

I often see people say Rick Owens is too same-y and it really gets me. I mean… I wonder if these people really believe this or if they’re just talking out of their asses sometime. There is a HUGE difference between being same-y and being a visionary who has the ability to carry over their distinct design aesthetic from season to season, meanwhile almost completely reworking and evolving the theme of each collection. He is truly the undisputed messiah of this… being able to be a complete chameleon but also maintain his sense of self. I think people mistake being same-y for the fact that his aesthetic is 100% irrefutable, no matter how much he shapes and shifts it.

Rick Owens Menswear Fall 2009

True to form, he delivered nothing particularly outrageous or unexpected, however, that it not to say it was boring or a disappointment – by any means. Some people are bothered by monochromatic collections, which I suppose I can empathize with to a degree. However, if there is enough beauty, depth and thought put into the textures and details within that singular color palette – then not only am I not bothered by it, but I find it totally admirable. My closet is basically monochromatic and therefore I heavily rely on interesting textures, beautiful fabrics and intricate detailing to build upon it.

At any rate, I think he’s done some great things here, if you take the time to consider. The variety of different leathers and textiles is so delicious; particularly the crocodile jacket with asymmetrical zipper – I think it’s fantastic. The proportions are nothing new, but they always look fresh to me, but I suppose maybe I am just a typical Rick fan in that way.

Perhaps he might catch some heat for these boots with the fur, so to speak. However, knowing Rick’s background, he came from the LA club / freak show scene of the late 80’s and if you are elderly enough (don’t worry, I am too) to remember those days, or possibly have been to a rave or two during that time, one of the things that the lovely gender benders would wear were hot pants with these elaborate DIY fur boots. The ones he’s done here are very similar in concept and material (although clearly his are ridiculously higher end), so I can’t help but wonder if this is somehow a nod to that era somehow.

Overall I really like it. I think some of the looks were maybe a little redundant, at least for a runway presentation, but it was also nice to see the range of things he’s produced. The basics, as usual are genius, the styling is amazing and what’s nearly the best part about is work is – the quality of the materials and the construction is perfect.

Rick Owens Menswear Spring 2009 "Strutter"

Rick Owens’ style couldn’t be more recognizable at this point. It’s distinctness is both a blessing and a curse. People will either excitedly recognize it or say it looks too similar as the previous season. And to be fair, this one actually does. However, I still fall more into the former category of being excited about it. As I’m sure is apparent by now… I like when a designer does something and does it well. I like the continuity, I like the subtle progression, I like the honesty. Unfortunately in a high paced environment like that of our fashion world, this persistence is often and easily written off a being boring or a one-note.

Anyways, on to my thoughts on this collection in particular… it is peculiarly similar to last season, right down to the presentation, model and styling. But there is something really admirable and slightly amusing about this. As far as the clothes go… they’re lovely, they’re Rick, they’re clothes that malnourished young men will look sexy in… you know, the usual. There is enough progression here to keep my interest, though. I love the gradient leather jacket with the contrast sleeves, it’s really nice looking. I love the cut of the leathers, the proportions and – even though it’s something we’ve seen before – the styling; it just works.

Rick Owens Spring 2009

Oh, Mr. Owens, can you do no wrong? At first glance, this collection may appear fairly minimal – well, in comparison to the last few, at least – but there is so much going on. The subtle variation and expansion of different takes on each look via different materials and detailing is really admirable. The details are truly where it’s at… particularly in many of the skirts, which look as if you could endlessly peel the layers away like the petals of a flower.

What has always moved me most about Rick Owens is his idea of beauty… which is, I suppose, that there should be no singular idea of beauty. He breaks down the conventional concepts of how women should look… but not defiantly. Rather, he demonstrates his own unique vision of a woman, and somehow, she couldn’t look more appealing.

His color palette, while not a surprise, never seems to get old. The fabrics he uses always tell a story of their own, as well. They’re full of integrity, potential, strength and luxuriousness. I love how he tweaks his silhouette with each season, but that his unique traits undoubtedly shine through. The presentation is wonderful; veiled heads and veiled feet, and nothing but the garment in between.