fur fur Fall 2010

Fur fur is always so lovely and so nice to see. Although I personally really liked the presentation from last season, it was obvious that it really put a lot of people off from actually seeing how good her individual pieces are so this season it's great to see them highlighted a bit. As usual, her construction is totally amazing; each piece looks like a dream within itself. The headpieces are so adorable as well and are the icing on the tiered and gathered cake that is the entire collection. Her style is derivative without a doubt but she injects so much uniqueness and consistency within it that it becomes her own type of magic each time.

The Dress & Co. Spring 2010

The Dress & Co. Hideaki Sakaguchi this season is, true to form, a charming mix of outerwear and delicate fabrics. The muted colors are really attractive and just lovely for spring, as are the clothes themselves. I appreciate the effortless combination of superfluity and just the right amount of structure; the ruffle placement is really darling and the jackets have great proportions.

For more information on the designer, please visit his website.

fur fur Spring 2010

Curiously underrated designer Aya Furuhashi delivers another outstanding collection this spring. I have to mention the presentation first because I think it is adorable; the infinite layers of scattered clothing, as the styling of the collection itself also infinitely layered. I worry though, that the heavy styling does her a disservice as far as most people finding it too busy-looking and therefore they don’t pay much attention to the clothing itself – which is a shame because her pieces are tremendously covetable.

Furuhashi’s immense talent for mixing different materials and textures together is really unique; she has knack for harnessing it all and making everything her own, no matter the theme or presentation. The whimsical silhouettes comprised of beautiful deconstruction, the unusual and beautiful accessories – it’s all so distinct and it’s a treasure to witness the progression of her techniques as each season passes.

Suzuki Takayuki Spring 2010

If it wasn’t already wildly apparent that this man is pure genius, then hopefully after this collection, it will be. Looking at any one of his pieces always sends me into a string of amorous adjectives and this season is no different, in that regard. His work is so magnificent, aesthetically and beyond. Some brands just have a presence where you’re drawn in directly to the designer’s vision and in Takayuki’s case, that vision is one of utter enchantment.

I like the fact that there is a great counterbalance of structure this season, styled beautifully with the more ruffled and tiered pieces. The belted looks are really beyond fantastic and the silhouettes are insane. He uses primarily organic materials (he’s even got a separate line specializing in organic cotton) and I think the materials he so carefully chooses for his pieces really do them justice as far as providing the clothing with sort of animate qualities.

The cardigan I have by him is really something; though it looked beautiful online and I thought I knew what to expect, when I actually got it I was blown away by the amount of detailing and obvious thought and consideration that had gone into it. His pieces are incredibly detailed but have such an effortless feel overall, they’re a dream really. Anyway I’ll cut the worship short but as you may have guessed, I just adore this guy.

Somarta Fall 2009

Tamae Hirokawa may have gained notoriety by being ‘the chosen one’ and having been taken under the personal tuition of master Issey Miyake, but she’s carving a place all her own in the fashion world. Decidedly toned down compared to the last few seasons, this collection makes perhaps an even more powerful impact, as it emanates strength and a distinct and mythical beauty.

Trading in a lot of the flair, she seems to have done some serious editing work – not that her clothes seemed to even need it – but the result is indeed gorgeous and gives her work more of a decadent feel overall; the colors, the fabrics, it’s all very rich in tone or texture. Her signature patterns are usually the focal point to a great degree but this season, you’re left to appreciate the sheer beauty of her pieces. I think the ability she has to combine textures so severely, without it looking messy or overbearing, is really special.

The accessories are amazing, but aren’t they always? Yes, but let’s do some redundant gushing anyways. The jaw guards are so, so stunning and I really hope they go to retail. The stockings are a familiar thing, but they look so fresh every time. As do the bodysuits, body stocking, gloves, et al.

While it wasn’t the focus of this collection, her signature pattern is still prevalent as ever and the approaches she took toward working it in this season is really admirable. For instance, the pattern is often on a sheer, light fabric, but we see garments here where she’s translated the pattern via embroidery on opaque pieces instead. She’s also got a design company, Soma Designs, which focus on applying her signature patterns onto products, installations, furniture and more. She was even invited last year by Toyota, to make-over their Compact IQ model.

There are so many more things to mention here but I know I have a tendency to ramble on insufferably about my favorite designers, so I will keep it short. I love the collection, I love her and I look forward to her future more with each passing creation she unleashes on the world.

The Shinmai Creators Project

The Shinmai Creator’s Project is sure to breathe a bit of new life into JFW, meanwhile giving some relatively up-and-coming designers some fantastic exposure. The organization is set to become an annual affair, after this year’s success and will be featuring five new designers and their work, at Japan Fashion Week each year.

The requirements were: that the designer’s experience does not yet exceed the time of 10 years and also, of course, they must have a strong interest in and passion toward Japanese design and manufacturing… and of course, recommendations from highly notable sources, such as professors at prestigious fashion academies. The winners were to show their designs in a special presentation at Japan Fashion Week, this year.

So, in the end, five winners were chosen out of a slew of designers – 52 brands, from 34 schools, in 17 countries, to be exact. On the selection committee were such reputable folks as Nobuyuki Ota (who is the now president of Issey Miyake Inc.), Valérie Toranian (Elle France’s editor in chief)and many more.

The brands/ designers chosen were Sachio Kawasaki (Japan), Nima by Nima Taherzadeh (Iran), Shida Tatsuya by Tatsuya Shida (Japan), aéthéré(e) by Ly-Ling Vilaysane & Adrien Escarvage (Switzerland, France) and Donna Sgro (Australia).

While I wasn’t in love with all of the designers’ work, the majority was definitely great. I wasn’t feeling Donna Sgro or Nima, so I am not going to post them up on here, because I’m just discriminatory like that.

However, I am really glad that these three, who’s work you can see below my rambling, are getting such exposure and they all definitely brought their A-game for JFW. I think they fit so well among the existing Japanese design aesthetic and hope they are invited to continue showing in the future.

aéthéré(e) F/W 09.10

I really like their work as it has a strong sense of ease, comfort and movement. In the same vein of Yohji, their plays on volume are really done well. Although this aesthetic, when pulled off correctly, can look mature – so it’s great how they’ve injected a lot of youth into the looks with the cuts and details. I like that the duo didn’t go flashy in any way; the collection is basically devoid of gimmicks and I respect that. The minimal pieces, styled in a heavy way, speaks a lovely message all on it’s own.

Sachio Kawasaki F/W 09.10

Kawasaki’s work is unique and filled with potential. Off the bat, the silhouettes are what immediately grabbed me, but the linear designs are really gorgeous as well. I like the structured silhouettes, coupled with the really fluid designs… he’s managed to create a really gorgeous effect with this. The execution of this is almost alarmingly good for someone with less than 10 years of accumulative design experience, but of course, that’s what makes it so exciting.

Shida Tatsuya F/W 09.10

If ever a designer belonged at JFW, it is this guy. In fact, it’s hard to believe he’s only showing as a guest, in comparison to most of the seasoned designers who show every season. The colors are used so well and give such an impact but you’ll find that things only get more impressive once you look beyond that. I am pretty blown away by a lot of the pieces; the whole aesthetic isn’t something we’ve never seen but the pieces themselves are divine. I mean… long, heavy, draped and bound fur skirts? Oh yes.

everlasting sprout Fall 2009

Everlasting sprout is always something to look forward to and this season continues in that tradition brilliantly. Muramatsu’s flair for combining rich, diverse textures is always so impressive and this season, the muted color palette he chose is so divine.

It’s impossible not to mention the knitwear straight away… it is absolutely stunning! The range of different knitting techniques is so impressive as well, but it’s how Muramatsu is so creative and unique with them that makes it really something special. There is even a color block knit dress, comprised of contrasting knit panels via different patterns and colors. The chunkier knits, which he builds upon the exterior of are really precious and give off a ‘blooming’ effect, meanwhile – as do all his knits – creating a sweet silhouette.

There isn’t much in the way of outerwear but that capelet is wonderful. I love the pattern and all of the different textures on the piece. Muramatsu is so, so good with the textures; he mixes fabrics so masterfully and while the combinations are often unlikely, the result is always stunning.

As far as styling and presentation goes… well, it’s never run of the mill when it comes to everlasting sprout… it’s always a dream, really. The thoughtful pairing, precision layering and the hair and makeup always tell the story of the designs perfectly. All in all, I love everything; the clothing, presentation and styling are all so poetic and whimsically beautiful.

Suzuki Takayuki Fall 2009

Simply put, Takayuki is one of the fastest rising stars at JFW, as far as I am concerned. He has been showing there for a couple of years now with his namesake line, and his work just keeps getting better with each season. Of course, I am always a huge fan of people who choose to do things a bit off the beaten path, and Takayuki is the perfect example.

Not only is he notoriously eco-conscious when it comes to his fabrics (he also has a separate line for organic-only garments), but he is a mastermind when it comes to the actual construction and detailing, as well. I love the dark and quirky beauty that his work emanates, particularly coupled with the fact that the fabrics themselves are very airy and ethereal – the combination is truly magical.

While his work is filled with atypical aspects, it’s never weird for weird’s sake or for show. The garments each make sense, and I love how much time has (clearly) been invested into the thought process behind them. The multi-layered and tiered pieces are gorgeous, and the jackets look to be cut to perfection as well.

Above all, however, it is the presentation that is really thrilling. Not only is it original, he really reinforces the sort of decrepit beauty that his work embodies. The garments act as a veritable gossamer to the cobweb feel of the individual installments. On top of the placement and composition – the way the clothes are brought to life, in a way, due to how they’re strewn and bound – the effect is really precious.

mintdesigns Fall 2009

Tokyo Fashion Week began on Monday and, as per usual, it was off to a refreshing start! Trading in an abundance of gorgeously eccentric rain gear from the Spring collection, mintdesigns is back with another great showing.

The stunning print/pattern work is often what sets this duo of designers apart, as well as the unusual but highly functional materials the pieces are comprised of. The patterns they create are so unique and fun, which is just an added bonus on top of the clothing itself.

There is always such an ease about mintdesigns; they are so effortless. Not only are the clothes fun and unique, they’re also a dream to wear as far as how they play out functionality-wise and how amazingly comfortable the garments are.

As always, the styling is sheer adorableness! Although it is hard to top their last season, which had the models wearing mini-skeletal structures as head pieces, amidst what were probably some of the best rain boots and umbrellas of all time… the headpieces this season are also great. Of course I love the chic sars mask look (who doesn’t?) and how it’s coupled with the veritable barb wire halo.

The shoes, which are vintage-inspired lace up boots with contrasting soles, are really good as well – I like how they’re so different than the million variations of the same type of boot that we’re seeing from most other designers.

Hidenobu Yasui Spring 2009

What a stunning collection, from the fabrics, to the volume, to the monochromatic color scheme… everything is really great. I definitely see a lot of influence in here from certain designers; however, it definitely has it’s own legs to stand on! I think the beauty really lies in the subtle detailing here, such as pockets on the elegant dresses or the unique pleating and the draping it induces. I would buy, wear and adore each piece of this collection, it’s really done so well. Another thing I love is that it is all so very “now”; it’s not some retro or futuristic inspired vision, it’s really just very current, gorgeous, comfortable and wearable. Lastly, I think keeping the presentation minimal… the clothing is really allowed to speak for itself, and what a great statement it makes.

fur fur Spring 2009

Much to my delight, the Spring 2009 Japan Fashion Week is upon us! Some of the brands to show on Day 1 were mintdesigns, mercibeaucoup, Mikio Sakabe and more. The one I adored the most, however was fur fur. Designer Aya Furuhashi showcases a whimsical but strong collection full of natural, earthy tones which give an overall really warm and comfortable effect. The styling is just amazing; layers upon layers of gorgeous fabric, flowers and stunning details. The clothing is extremely well constructed. Most of the individual pieces are oversized and drapey, yet not shapeless or overwhelming, even amongst the heavy layering in the presentation. The accessories are also made out of lovely flowers, including some great headpieces and incredibly elaborate necklaces. This collection is definitely an aesthetically pleasing treat and the craftsmanship is just as admirable… very well done.

Junya Tashiro Spring 2009

Day 2 of JFW has passed and with it, have some more wonderful collections. Predictably, but justifiably of me, Junya Tashiro was by far my favorite from today and it’s easy to see why. With endless amounts of asymmetrical ruching, pale colors and plenty of intricacy, this collection warms my cold heart. The silhouettes are remarkable; bold and brooding shapes created from such precious construction. As always, the presentation is a dream as well… the models have the classic soft makeup and hairstyles, but it’s contrasted well by dramatic, yet pretty, headpieces and necklaces. I was hoping to see some of the crocheting from last season carried over into this one because it was just divine… however, I have no complaints and barely miss the crocheting after seeing the result of this collection, it’s wonderful. Tashiro always delivers and this is no exception.

I’m really looking forward to Somarta as well… surprise, surprise! :p

Somarta Spring 2009

The last day of JFW was an amazing one, mostly due to Somarta, brought to you by the amazing Tamae Hirokawa. She may have studied under the legendary Issey Miyake but she’s developing her brand so well on her own now. The trademarks from each season carry over, but the new ideas also keep popping up. The umbrella skirts are simply amazing in this collection… the construction is flawless and it gives such an incredible play in volume. The exoskeleton looking knits are by far my favorite thing; so organic and so futuristic and forward-thinking at the same time, just really stunning. As always, Somarta’s presentation was such a treat also. A year ago, for SS08 we saw dark, tribal face paint, mimicking her trademark tights/bodysuit/gloves patterns… this year the models are donned with awesome headgear and body shimmer, adding to the overall direction of the clothing. Everything is perfect, can’t wait to see what Ms. Hirokawa has in store for us in future seasons.