Matthew Ames Spring 2009

I saw a couple of preview images from this last year on Ms. Pernet’s blog, but hadn’t seen the full lookbook until now. And I know it’s menswear time but I just had to post it… I am in love! Based on the initial images I’d seen, I assumed it was going to be a lot of minimalist, draped, slender-silhouetted looks, but the range of shapes here is nice and varied. I am dying over how the fabric is gathered and bound, as it completely stops the draping from engulfing the form of the wearer’s body. There are so many designers doing excessive draping, but it looks like crap unless it is done according to the form underneath. Ames really did a lovely job on this, not only with the silhouettes and effects but the actual pieces look brilliantly crafted and the fabrics look great as well. Can’t wait to get ahold of some of this stuff.

Nicolas Andreas Taralis Menswear Spring 2009

If you checked out the scoute interview on Mr. Taralis, you read mention of a much anticipated S/S 09 collection from the man. Well, some photos have surfaced… and here they are!

This collection is exciting for me because I think he really has done a great job at showcasing who he is as a designer, with it. Smart and very current clothing for the humbly stylish man – but with enough impressive details to really make it all something special. The sheer blazer and trench? Oh god, I am so in love. Not only are they beautifully constructed garments but a man in a conservative garment that happens to be sheer… that is so lovely. Aside from the sheer pieces, the clothing is just solid from every aspect. Unfortunately this isn’t the kind of menswear I personally can wear because it is too masculine – which is actually a great thing, and refreshing at this point – but I admire every bit of it none the less.

One thing in particular that I admire about Taralis is his dedication to staying “in the now” and designing for the present time. Heaven knows I love a good vintage or futuristic inspired collection but let’s face it… there is something to be said for someone who completely has their own vision and can accomplish a completely current collection, themes and gimmicks aside, and that’s something he can do very well.

If I wasn’t already, these images leave me in utter anticipation of his forthcoming women’s line! I really can’t wait to see what he’ll bring forth. The good thing is we’ve only until March to find out. The time has almost arrived.

Rad Hourani Spring 2009

Hooray for Hourani! I admire him so much for always sticking to his guns, despite season and despite passing trends. Upon seeing this season’s collection, many criticized that the clothes look too similar to previous seasons. The Hourani silhouette is a strong one of veritable black armor and sleekness… and I, for one, am thrilled to see this look expanded upon and refined. Aside from the fact that there is a huge variety of different types of pieces, the garments themselves are much more streamlined and have tons of distinguishing qualities and details. I always love the fabrics used and the slashed pants are too awesome! The simple presentation is great, as is the casting of diverse models.

Hidenobu Yasui Spring 2009

What a stunning collection, from the fabrics, to the volume, to the monochromatic color scheme… everything is really great. I definitely see a lot of influence in here from certain designers; however, it definitely has it’s own legs to stand on! I think the beauty really lies in the subtle detailing here, such as pockets on the elegant dresses or the unique pleating and the draping it induces. I would buy, wear and adore each piece of this collection, it’s really done so well. Another thing I love is that it is all so very “now”; it’s not some retro or futuristic inspired vision, it’s really just very current, gorgeous, comfortable and wearable. Lastly, I think keeping the presentation minimal… the clothing is really allowed to speak for itself, and what a great statement it makes.

Graham Tabor Spring 2009

I just came across this designer recently and had to make an entry about him and his work. The man himself seems really interesting, drawing his inspiration from archeology. From the aesthetic properties to the emotions the process invokes for him, he’s created his S/S 09 line based around this root of inspiration. I really adore the techniques used, the fragmented design and the sort of deconstructed, decaying aspect of it all… it’s well done and I think it gets the point across really well without being completely unwearable. The fabrics he uses are great and I think there is something to be said about the cuts and lines as well.

Better his words, than mine, though… here is what he has to say about this collection:

“I’m really fascinated by the anthropological aspects of archaeology—what the heritage cultures leave behind and how we collect that knowledge through the traces they leave. At some point, all civilizations (even our own) are reduced to cultural fragments. Those that come later are only left with silent partial objects and they have to create the story around them.”

Check more of his stuff out at: grahamtabor.com

fur fur Spring 2009

Much to my delight, the Spring 2009 Japan Fashion Week is upon us! Some of the brands to show on Day 1 were mintdesigns, mercibeaucoup, Mikio Sakabe and more. The one I adored the most, however was fur fur. Designer Aya Furuhashi showcases a whimsical but strong collection full of natural, earthy tones which give an overall really warm and comfortable effect. The styling is just amazing; layers upon layers of gorgeous fabric, flowers and stunning details. The clothing is extremely well constructed. Most of the individual pieces are oversized and drapey, yet not shapeless or overwhelming, even amongst the heavy layering in the presentation. The accessories are also made out of lovely flowers, including some great headpieces and incredibly elaborate necklaces. This collection is definitely an aesthetically pleasing treat and the craftsmanship is just as admirable… very well done.

Junya Tashiro Spring 2009

Day 2 of JFW has passed and with it, have some more wonderful collections. Predictably, but justifiably of me, Junya Tashiro was by far my favorite from today and it’s easy to see why. With endless amounts of asymmetrical ruching, pale colors and plenty of intricacy, this collection warms my cold heart. The silhouettes are remarkable; bold and brooding shapes created from such precious construction. As always, the presentation is a dream as well… the models have the classic soft makeup and hairstyles, but it’s contrasted well by dramatic, yet pretty, headpieces and necklaces. I was hoping to see some of the crocheting from last season carried over into this one because it was just divine… however, I have no complaints and barely miss the crocheting after seeing the result of this collection, it’s wonderful. Tashiro always delivers and this is no exception.

I’m really looking forward to Somarta as well… surprise, surprise! :p