fur fur Spring 2010

Curiously underrated designer Aya Furuhashi delivers another outstanding collection this spring. I have to mention the presentation first because I think it is adorable; the infinite layers of scattered clothing, as the styling of the collection itself also infinitely layered. I worry though, that the heavy styling does her a disservice as far as most people finding it too busy-looking and therefore they don’t pay much attention to the clothing itself – which is a shame because her pieces are tremendously covetable.

Furuhashi’s immense talent for mixing different materials and textures together is really unique; she has knack for harnessing it all and making everything her own, no matter the theme or presentation. The whimsical silhouettes comprised of beautiful deconstruction, the unusual and beautiful accessories – it’s all so distinct and it’s a treasure to witness the progression of her techniques as each season passes.

Suzuki Takayuki Spring 2010

If it wasn’t already wildly apparent that this man is pure genius, then hopefully after this collection, it will be. Looking at any one of his pieces always sends me into a string of amorous adjectives and this season is no different, in that regard. His work is so magnificent, aesthetically and beyond. Some brands just have a presence where you’re drawn in directly to the designer’s vision and in Takayuki’s case, that vision is one of utter enchantment.

I like the fact that there is a great counterbalance of structure this season, styled beautifully with the more ruffled and tiered pieces. The belted looks are really beyond fantastic and the silhouettes are insane. He uses primarily organic materials (he’s even got a separate line specializing in organic cotton) and I think the materials he so carefully chooses for his pieces really do them justice as far as providing the clothing with sort of animate qualities.

The cardigan I have by him is really something; though it looked beautiful online and I thought I knew what to expect, when I actually got it I was blown away by the amount of detailing and obvious thought and consideration that had gone into it. His pieces are incredibly detailed but have such an effortless feel overall, they’re a dream really. Anyway I’ll cut the worship short but as you may have guessed, I just adore this guy.

Haider Ackermann Spring 2010

Haider is just delicious. Clearly one of the only designers who sees draping not as a trend, but as an art form, he is taking his aesthetic to amazing new heights as each season passes. As I always say, I am a total sucker for evolutionary, yet consistent designers. I don’t mind knowing what to expect from someone – in fact, I admire and often times prefer someone who can push themselves to the limit, slowly expanding upon a specific vision. The cheesy expression “like a fine wine” didn’t come of out nowhere, after all.

The silhouettes are stunning and I love the fit of everything. He knows so well how to dress a woman, how to take advantage of her form, curves and allure and how to enhance them brilliantly. The contradictions within his work are really beautiful to me – the hard and the soft, the structured and the fluid, the revealing and the mysterious. So much complexity and thoughtfulness yet the result is so pure. I also like the details in this collection a lot; the unusual overlapping of fabric, the exaggerated and uniquely placed pockets, etc. Basically everything is really nicely done and couldn’t be more attractive, distinguished or divine.

Vanessa Bruno Spring 2010

Though SS10 wasn’t a ground-breaking season overall, it’s the individual triumphs that will make it a memorable one to me. Such as Ms. Hash returning to form, for example, and let us add another one to the list because this is definitely one of my favorite Vanessa Bruno collections, not just in seasons, but in the last few years. I had really been losing interest with each collection but this one is a total turnaround, which is just fabulous because, well, she is in fact fabulous.

I find the color palette so beautiful, I love these muted tones paired with the crisp white and structured black. There are countless covetable pieces throughout the collection and the styling of the show was perfection, really. She manages off-kilter cuts with finesse, such as the trousers pictured above which I’m in love with.

The accessories are so disarming and feminine and act as a beautiful compliment to the garments, rather than how most designers are leaning toward ultra-severe footwear and jewelry. So not only is this a beautiful collection but it’s definitely a breath of fresh air.

Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2010

I don’t usually waste time writing about the things that I don’t like, but this surpasses the realm of dislike and is in full-on offensive territory. How little respect does Rosso and his new team have for not only MMM’s fan base but for the man himself? This is supposed to be an improvement on Margiela’s slow-crafted, precise and directional vision? Please.

How despicable that he reckons we are so stupid that he can wipe out Margiela’s essence and sell this gimmicky bullshit and have it be as successful. This is not Diesel, man. They didn’t even manage to get the silhouettes right, never mind all of the precision, grace and integrity that Margiela had. They should have just shut the house down when he stepped down; do we really need to witness another sad slaughtering of someone’s good name, à la Helmut Lang?

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P.S. – while I’m ranting here: hey Gareth, please return to what made you so special in the first place. Don’t sell yourself short by becoming a bad gothic parody of Rick Owens. Still love you, though. <3

Comme des Garçons Spring 2010

Two words: fucking perfect. After the incredibly tough act to follow that was her Autumn collection, she’s back with another magical one. It’s hard to really comment on everything or else I’d be here all day, but of course the patchwork is the standout technique here and she’s executed it so flawlessly, so admirably. Amidst the masterful deconstruction and patchworking, there are a ton of great basics and other covetable pieces, which truly make the collection a home run on the whole.

The dresses are beyond beautiful, the trousers are cut to perfection, the shoes are a dream; this collection really thrives in all aspects. I am most obsessed with the trenches. I adore beyond words how she substitutes severe fabrics for very ethereal ones within her structured garments. The idea alone of using these delicate fabrics on outerwear is so precious, and the finished products are almost heartbreakingly beautiful.

The craftsmanship that goes into Rei’s collections is no doubt amazing but what is most touching to me is how she manages to convey and depict so clearly her messages of nostalgia, sentimentality and guarded beauty… it’s really something special.

Undercover Spring 2010

For me personally, Jun Takahashi’s sportswear collections are, albeit not as whimsical as some of his others, just as interesting as far as detail is concerned and even more so in their amazing functionality. Granted, one of the parkas from his FW07 collection is probably the most impressive garment I own in terms of its purposeful detailing, custom fabrics, numerous options for interchangeability. So I guess my fascination with that thing probably fuels my excitement toward his collections of this persuasion, but really his active/outerwear is just as thoughtful as any of his other types of pieces.

I love how he consistently cycles his collections, giving each of his aesthetics a season of it’s own to shine, instead of trying to over-diversify with a mix of everything in each one. It’s great not only that he has multiple styles, but for how one never suffers for or due to the other. Not to mention his menswear has been staggeringly good the past few seasons and I am loving how he’s created a cohesion in theme and color palette between the two lines.

This collection is current yet inventive and contains so many fantastic pieces. The progressive nature of his design works so well when he applies it toward function. Undercover’s aesthetic is so untainted, so devoid of trends and outside influence, yet manages to keep it exciting each season, while slowly reworking and refining the key pieces of the brand.This season’s simple presentation is really lovely with the sea of lights as the backdrop. If I had to pick something to replace it’d definitely be those clutches and bring back these bags instead. Otherwise… amazing pieces and proportions throughout, as always, and I am especially loving some of the jackets… which I’m sure are going to be to die for in person.

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2010

I am loving Ann so much this season for implementing things that dreams are made of – zippers, straps, headpieces, facial bindings, etc… well, my dreams, anyway. Aside from the accessories, there is so much happening within the clothing alone, yet the effect seems effortless. The proportions are nothing short of amazing and the maxi skirts are too perfect. She’s worked with the leather so well here and though there is a lot of it, I don’t find it overwhelming at all. Her choice of a print as well as her use of white couldn’t have been better as they are the perfect contrast to the overall rigidity. Another great element are the jackets which are slightly overpowered by the presentation, but look completely amazing. Overall I really like the sexiness that it exudes while maintaining her usual integrity.

TAO Comme des Garçons Spring 2010

Add another one on to the list of unexpectedness, but this one is most intriguing to me. As any long time TAO worshipper would be, I was sort of taken aback by the presentation alone. Not in a bad way, it is just so different than her usual runway vibe that it was a definite surprise. Looking beyond the styling, though, you can easily find a number of beautiful pieces and see the complex and inventive spirit that she is known for. There are a lot of nice basics as well as some really stand out pieces, which I’m sure the craftsmanship is amazing on, as always. The best parts for me this season are definitely the range of amazing textures, and of course… the boots.

Junya Watanabe Spring 2010

A very straightforward collection from Junya this season, but that is not necessarily a bad thing. Practicality can still be exciting, especially when someone of his calibre is performing the task. The man can cut a jacket, that’s one thing we know for sure and this collection is filled with great ones in terms of their flawless structure and no doubt their function. I’m not wild about basic leggings, particularly worn as pants, but Junya is one of the only designers who manages to present them in a way that doesn’t turn me off entirely. It goes without saying that the headpieces are brilliant, but I’ll say it anyway and the shoes are divine as well.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2010

While Limi asked “C’est un peu de Yohji Yamamoto?” on her SS10 invitations, perhaps it should have been done the other way around! This collection seems like some sort of unexpected homage to his daughter’s work, rather than his own. At any rate, it is sort of nice to see him do such an unexpected collection, though I find it strange in a time where sales are not so great. Interesting choice of detailing as well with the holes and peaked shoulders, which I can’t say I’m the biggest fan of. But overall there are some amazing pieces and I really love many of the proportions involved.

Bernhard Willhelm Spring 2010

Willhelm is undoubtedly one of the best in the game at working with prints and volume, particularly simultaneously. Decidedly toned down, or perhaps matured from his seasons of the past, this is a really refined BW aesthetic but not devoid of any creativity or execution. His print work is so original and inspired and he always shows us things we’ve not seen before. The patterns he creates, whether by way of dyeing or his progressive knitwear, are truly something to be admired. It is sort of annoying that a lot of people write his stuff off as not being serious, because really, he is such an innovator whose ideas are filled with integrity and ingenuity – and his work totally crushes most others who try their hand in the same aesthetic.

Anne Valerie Hash Spring 2010

Hands down one of the most pleasant surprises of the day, Ms. Hash is back and seriously on point! I am thrilled she made a return in the same vein as some of her past collections, and not just any of them… this is reminiscent of some of her best works, which is a dream come true to say the least. She’s such a distinct talent and it’s great to see her headed in this direction once again. She’s amazing at creating deceptively simple designs; they’re super practical but also really thoughtful in terms of construction and materials. The only thing I could do without would obviously be the sneakers but they’re easy to ignore since the rest of this is pure perfection, AVH style.

Lanvin Spring 2010

You’ve got to love Alber Elbaz. Not only for being one of the most adorable creatures I can think of, but for his relentless celebration of the female form and spirit. Sure, there is nothing revolutionary here by Lanvin terms, but it is gorgeous no less. The last few collections were heavily decadent and while this is along the same lines, there are a lot of playful elements mixed in which make it covetable. It’s playful, complimentary and has such a powerful and sexy presence… a sure fire recipe to making a woman feel like a million bucks.

Limi Feu Spring 2010

Staying true to herself 100% but in the same token, Limi introduces some really pivotal elements this season and it’s definitely an overall win. The classic silhouettes, the styling, her signature flair… not only is it all present, but there is a more polished feel to it all, without having lost any of the fun spirit that makes her work so endearing.

In the midst of this balancing act of maintaining and advancing her look, she goes one step further and unveils some menswear looks like it ain’t no thing. It was only a matter of time, I guess, but I love her nonchalant introduction of the menswear and also how it just blends right in. Some designers’ women’s and menswear are horses of a completely different color, which can be either impressive or detrimental, but I have a soft spot for those who can interchange and translate their signature aesthetic between their different lines.

It is great that she invested in a retail space that doubles as a venue for her shows, not only for sake of personalization but obviously also from the standpoint of frugality. Everything about this season was a smart move by Limi – from the practicality and effortless beauty of the looks, to the thoughtful new ideas; the pieces all fit and the result is a treat for us all.

Rick Owens Spring 2010

It is probably not surprising to read that I am in love with this, but with good reason, no? Conjuring up a perfect marriage of classic and new concepts, Mr. Owens brings forth a flawless and super fresh Spring collection for us to feast our eyes and wallets on. Well, at least being broke will have seldom looked so good.

He’s shed some new light on his ubiquitous basics by changing up the cuts and shifting even further into a geometrical realm and tastefully evolving away from the fairly formless territory that he was becoming notorious for. He’s always had great structured jackets, but it’s lovely to see the structure and form making a powerful presence in his work as a whole. I guess when the world is on your coattails, it’s as good a time as ever to morph into something even more exciting. The shapes here are so stunning and the silhouettes are wildly intriguing as a result.

The footwear is also really interesting; some brand new ideas, along with some in the same vein of the recent past collections. The thing I like the most is that they strike a nice balance between the ultra dramatic footwear he’s done and something more minimal… but without losing any of the magic that makes his footwear so unique in the first place.