Lanvin Spring 2010

You’ve got to love Alber Elbaz. Not only for being one of the most adorable creatures I can think of, but for his relentless celebration of the female form and spirit. Sure, there is nothing revolutionary here by Lanvin terms, but it is gorgeous no less. The last few collections were heavily decadent and while this is along the same lines, there are a lot of playful elements mixed in which make it covetable. It’s playful, complimentary and has such a powerful and sexy presence… a sure fire recipe to making a woman feel like a million bucks.

Limi Feu Spring 2010

Staying true to herself 100% but in the same token, Limi introduces some really pivotal elements this season and it’s definitely an overall win. The classic silhouettes, the styling, her signature flair… not only is it all present, but there is a more polished feel to it all, without having lost any of the fun spirit that makes her work so endearing.

In the midst of this balancing act of maintaining and advancing her look, she goes one step further and unveils some menswear looks like it ain’t no thing. It was only a matter of time, I guess, but I love her nonchalant introduction of the menswear and also how it just blends right in. Some designers’ women’s and menswear are horses of a completely different color, which can be either impressive or detrimental, but I have a soft spot for those who can interchange and translate their signature aesthetic between their different lines.

It is great that she invested in a retail space that doubles as a venue for her shows, not only for sake of personalization but obviously also from the standpoint of frugality. Everything about this season was a smart move by Limi – from the practicality and effortless beauty of the looks, to the thoughtful new ideas; the pieces all fit and the result is a treat for us all.

Rick Owens Spring 2010

It is probably not surprising to read that I am in love with this, but with good reason, no? Conjuring up a perfect marriage of classic and new concepts, Mr. Owens brings forth a flawless and super fresh Spring collection for us to feast our eyes and wallets on. Well, at least being broke will have seldom looked so good.

He’s shed some new light on his ubiquitous basics by changing up the cuts and shifting even further into a geometrical realm and tastefully evolving away from the fairly formless territory that he was becoming notorious for. He’s always had great structured jackets, but it’s lovely to see the structure and form making a powerful presence in his work as a whole. I guess when the world is on your coattails, it’s as good a time as ever to morph into something even more exciting. The shapes here are so stunning and the silhouettes are wildly intriguing as a result.

The footwear is also really interesting; some brand new ideas, along with some in the same vein of the recent past collections. The thing I like the most is that they strike a nice balance between the ultra dramatic footwear he’s done and something more minimal… but without losing any of the magic that makes his footwear so unique in the first place.

MeadhamKirchhoff Spring 2010

I’ll admit off the bat that I am biased in my love for this collection, as this is pretty much in the vein of the aesthetic I gravitate toward most and is also how I like to dress… however, I think it’s beautiful from an objective standpoint as well. The gathering and pintucking are my favorite bits, but there are also so many unique details such as the trousers with zippers down the front. The difference contrast between certain fabrics used, plus the brilliant runway styling really grab the attention. I adore the bag so much and how it echoes the design of some of the clothing here as well. Really liking this as a whole and will definitely be picking up a thing or two.

Charles Anastase Spring 2010

After what was an uncharacteristic, let down of a collection last season, in my opinion anyways, Charles is BACK and as good as ever. This collection screams his name; all of the attributes we know and love from this brand are representing here and intertwined with a bunch of fresh concepts that all come together so beautifully. He has a real knack for designing fresh, young clothing without crossing the line in to tacky/trashy territory… meanwhile keeping it enticing, just in a more modest way… and after all, as far as I am concerned, modesty is beauty. His silhouettes never falter but this season they’re even more enhanced and exaggerated while remaining slightly off kilter, which of course, I love. The colors are to die for as well – crisp neutrals with the splashes of yellow/orange/red-ish tones. It goes without saying that the dresses are amazing, but the outerwear is right up to par with them.

Rodarte Spring 2010

My favorite kinfolk duo (and fellow anime lovers!), Rodarte, are back and suffice to say they’ve brought along with them a beautiful collection. Darkness for Spring? Yes, please. These ladies are doing remarkable things and I love that they’re cultivating and fine-tuning their trademarks as each season rolls around. I love that their vision never falters, though they bring on new elements and overtones with each collection.

This one is so dramatic and has so much to feast the eyes on that it’s hard to keep your sight on one thing for very long. The textures that are happening within each piece is nothing short of mind blowing! Construction-wise, they are one of the most exciting brands for me – in person, their pieces are intense and unusual in the most lovely of ways and the intricacy is just so impressive.

The rich, deep color story this season was gorgeous as well and I adore their printwork. The contrast of elements in these pieces and how they masterfully overlap, intertwine and marry the different materials within each garment is such a beautiful thing. Truly sensational.

Their influences are always present but they translate and incorporate them with such nonchalance that they only add fuel to the already dramatic and visually orgasmic aesthetic that is the foundation of their label. It is a delight to witness the Mulleavy sisters continually flourish each season, enchanting us all along the way.

Rad Hourani Spring 2010

Thank heavens for Rad Hourani, this season especially. I am enamored with his directional progression; there’s little better than a designer with an original look that just gets better and better over the years, à la Rick Owens and Hourani is certainly on a similar path. The fact that his work just is what it is and is timeless in the sense that it transcends trends and has a distinct aesthetic, that he’s able to rework his look is showing that he has the potential to be a diligent and consistent force to be reckoned with.

I also applaud, not only the aesthetic progression in terms of detailing and updated versions of his signature pieces, but the fact that the construction and materials he’s using are evolving right along with it. Everything looks so clean and attractive and the different textures, contrasting panels and zipper detailing only further the appeal.

Jeremy Laing Spring 2010

Carrying over from his very nicely done and well-received autumn collection, Jeremy Laing is back with another one. I am really loving the range of fabrics he chose and worked into this one and the array of detailing that the collection possesses overall. Each piece is something special, when broken down, in addition to them all working as a cohesive unit. Laing’s work always feels so young and vibrant with a nice edge, to me – but it also has so many mature and impressive elements that it makes him someone who’s interesting and well worth following the work of.

NYFW + Gary Graham Spring 2010

NYFW is a mess this year, a huge mess of tired trends and dated or just completely redundant collections. Not that it’s usually an invigorating fashion week or anything, but this season seems particularly sad. The whole Erin Wasson x RVCA, Alexander Wang, neo-Herve Leger, etc, thing… not only has it been done to death but by now it’s all a bit of a joke.

In a time where finances are so tight that fashion greats such as Veronique Branquinho have to completely shut down their houses and inexplicably talented geniuses such as Yohji Yamamoto’s are also being threatened – it is terrible that this shallow crap is selling like hotcakes and is running rampant on the runways – the place where trends are meant to be set… not regurgitated upon.

At this point, these gimmicky ‘designers’ are basically pulling a Fight Club on their clientele, by selling back to them their own veritable excrement in shiny new packages each season – and according to sales, people are buying it right up. It seems innovation has gone down in priority and I hope that will change.

:straps on Optimist hat:

back to regularly scheduled programming:

Gary Graham is definitely a designer who deserves much more praise and recognition than he’s gotten so far. But in addition to his diligent talent, the feature he just shot for an upcoming issue Vogue (featuring his favorite model Ms. Pivovarova) should definitely help expose him.

I think this collection right here is such a breath of fresh air; from the clothing to the setting – I love to see such thoughtfulness. My favorite aspect is probably the unusual and varying waistlines, it’s a beautiful play on proportions and was furthered beautifully by the great styling. The dresses are all lovely but what really won me over were the structured pieces sprinkled throughout… they add just the right amount of rigidity to counterbalance the whimsical overtone and not to mention the proportions are amazing on them and I love how he uses them to subtly distort the silhouette. All in all, it’s just really well done, attractive and has real subtance, which is something a lot of collections this week are severely lacking. Well done, Mr. Graham!

Chitose Abe x Monclear Spring 2010

Moncler did well by inviting the amazing designer of Sacai, Chitose Abe, to design a collection for them. How stunning are these silhouettes? If there’s one thing above all that Abe does flawlessly, it is combining beauty and function and these really showcase that. My usual association with Moncler is the world bulky, but these really break the mold and are actually very pretty and incredibly interesting. They are so in line with her aesthetic, despite the challenge of working with outerwear materials. The pieces will be released for sale next year under the label of ‘Moncler S’ and it’s said that they will be available in black, white and olive.