Junya Tashiro Spring 2009

Day 2 of JFW has passed and with it, have some more wonderful collections. Predictably, but justifiably of me, Junya Tashiro was by far my favorite from today and it’s easy to see why. With endless amounts of asymmetrical ruching, pale colors and plenty of intricacy, this collection warms my cold heart. The silhouettes are remarkable; bold and brooding shapes created from such precious construction. As always, the presentation is a dream as well… the models have the classic soft makeup and hairstyles, but it’s contrasted well by dramatic, yet pretty, headpieces and necklaces. I was hoping to see some of the crocheting from last season carried over into this one because it was just divine… however, I have no complaints and barely miss the crocheting after seeing the result of this collection, it’s wonderful. Tashiro always delivers and this is no exception.

I’m really looking forward to Somarta as well… surprise, surprise! :p

Marc le Bihan Fall 2008

This is such a great collection overall but I’ve chosen my favorite photos from the bunch for this collage. I think they do well at showcasing the overall theme of the collection. It’s incredibly monochromatic, just like I like it, but within that there’s so much intricacy. The execution on each of the many different types of techniques showcased is basically flawless. From drape-y, voluminous pieces, to crisp, white blouses with unusual and fantastic cuts and pleating, this collection has got it all if you look beyond the color palette and heavy styling. There are so many delicately constructed pieces that could be so versatile when taken out of the element of presentation this collection showcases them within. Personally, though, I love heavy layering; it shows so much character. The layers are each unique but together they make something even more beautiful. Overall, I think this is Marc Le Bihan’s best collection to date. It is so thoughtful and well executed… great work!

scoute.org

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Kiminori Morishita Menswear Spring 2009

How adorable is this collection and presentation? Tremendously, yes. Following the current trend of feminizing the male persuasion, Morishita pulls off this idea in an endearing and sweet way… rather than the more popularized objectifying, turning-the-tables type of way which other designers have this season as well as in some of the F/W 08 shows, such as Ms. Miuccia’s. I love the frivolous aspect of it all, and I even love how that is barely counteracted by anything flashy or rough; everything looks so delicate, soft and lovely.

Morishita did one of my favorite spins on the leggings under pants trend this season, for sure, using these opaque and neutral tones. I really like how they are more like tights than leggings in some of the looks; in fact those are my favorite. Paired with the ribbon-tied mary jane type of shoe, these socks look so cute, especially paired with these versatile blazers and short pants. There are so many ideas here it’s hard to tap into them all without absolutely rambling, especially since I don’t have anything negative or critical to say! I adore so many of the concepts, from the use of leather, to the themes and all the way down to the fabrics and palette.

Suffice to say I really like this one and think the nail was hit on the head. The presentation and styling of the collection are adorable, yes… but don’t let that overshadow the fact that there are many incredible individual pieces in here to be found as well.

Somarta Spring 2009

The last day of JFW was an amazing one, mostly due to Somarta, brought to you by the amazing Tamae Hirokawa. She may have studied under the legendary Issey Miyake but she’s developing her brand so well on her own now. The trademarks from each season carry over, but the new ideas also keep popping up. The umbrella skirts are simply amazing in this collection… the construction is flawless and it gives such an incredible play in volume. The exoskeleton looking knits are by far my favorite thing; so organic and so futuristic and forward-thinking at the same time, just really stunning. As always, Somarta’s presentation was such a treat also. A year ago, for SS08 we saw dark, tribal face paint, mimicking her trademark tights/bodysuit/gloves patterns… this year the models are donned with awesome headgear and body shimmer, adding to the overall direction of the clothing. Everything is perfect, can’t wait to see what Ms. Hirokawa has in store for us in future seasons.

Véronique Branquinho Menswear Spring 2009

Véronique delivers a solid, wearable, well-executed and appropriate collection for this spring / summer, which would seemingly be the point… yet not many designers manage to get it all quite right. More impressively, she pulls off all of the aforementioned feats meanwhile incorporating most all of this season’s hottest runway trends. We see stripes, plaid, the infamous pants under shorts and one bold accent color. Thankfully, no two toning or color blocking here which adds to this collection’s refreshing qualities. If I were a guy, I’d be all over this like white on rice. It is so flattering and so now, but at the same time, classic and also forward-thinking. I adore the silhouettes. Everything is just very well done… go Véronique!

Comme des Garçons Menswear Spring 2009

Rei has brought the heat this season as this collection is absolutely a dream. There are so many patterns going on, so many different layers and dimensions of complexity yet it is not sloppy or goofy looking at all. There are many skirts in the collection, and you hardly notice because of the pretty masculine styling of the show. The pants underneath the shorts and skirts look really great. The jackets and blazers are absolutely amazing as well. Very wearable but with so much of Rei’s signature charm and extreme attention to detail. The look I chose to feature above the collage, I chose because it sums up my feelings on the whole collection in one look; impeccable styling and layering, the mixture of extremely different prints which provide so much depth and complexity, the pants under the long, layered skirts, everything. Well done, I’d say. It’s an incredibly wearable collection for CDG but I also think it’s still very thoughtful toward her male market and not patronizingly feminine for the sake of it… like some of the other collections this season.

Richard Chai Menswear Spring 2009

I didn’t realize Mr. Chai was showing in Paris this season but I am thrilled he has and I love this collection! Everything about it is great, there is so much good in it that it’s hard to choose where to begin. As seen in the first photo above the collage, the model to the left of Richard Chai has on this divine white shirt and there are a few other similar ones here and there throughout the collection… I think those were my favorite pieces. The button downs are also superb and have really subtle yet intriguing details. I love the overall textures and the fabrics used; the mixture of textiles really makes the collection dynamic amongst it’s mostly subdued color palette. The pants are simply hot… the cut of them are so nice and I love how they’re rolled up and provide just the right amount of volume to create these lovely silhouettes in this collection. One of my other favorite pieces is the long cardigan which I may even consider getting in the future. It’s pretty much the ideal over sized cardigan, all the way down to the buttons. The styling is really exceptional in this showing as well, I thought… just good all around!

Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme Spring 2009

A really marvelous collection from Yohji this season. His choice of models speaks volumes and the clothing conveys something quite well: that Yohji designs for the realistic man. These looks are practical, comfortable, loose fitting yet incredibly stylish and above all they are wearable on such a dramatic age scale. Young men will look handsome in these clothes and older men will look distinguished. There are seasonal trends sprinkled throughout such as the lace, a small amount of color blocking, et al, but for the most part, this collection seems blatantly driven toward extreme wearability and most importantly, the looks are classic. Not only classic Yohji designs but classic in the sense that they are timeless pieces as well. The look I featured above the collage, however, was without a doubt my favorite, design-wise. The asymmetrical jacket is impeccable. We all know Yohji is the master of asymmetry, but typically we see it from him in a much more unkempt and exaggerated way… but here, it is so well tailored and the proportions are just amazing. An overall A+ from me. In short, this is a collection of effortlessly complex clothing, made for the uniquely average man.

Alexander McQueen Menswear Spring 2009

It’s that time of the year already! Menswear fashion week is upon us… well, Milan’s anyhow. I am eagerly awaiting Paris’ as always but I was pleasantly surprised with McQueen’s Milan showing yesterday. I wasn’t sure what to expect after last year’s collection, which was a veritable train wreck of polar bears, wild west hobo-ness, tartan and to top it all off, literally, greasy looking ancient Roman style hairdo’s. I am not sure if my attraction to this collection has more to do with relief than actually loving it, but either way, it’s definitely got many high points for me.

I think it’s very similar to Prada menswear of last season, in using the nude tones very prominently. However, where as Miuccia used the nude as entire pieces, McQueen seems to use it here to play up and distort the silhouette a bit and as more of an accent to create interesting shapes. The gradient effects are also wonderful, I love the men’s and women’s looks which have it; really interesting line patterns. I also adore the use of metallics. They are used as accents and I think the fluidity or smoke-like patterns they seem to flow in are really nice as well as the lining of the blazers with a bold metallic.

It’s as close as we’ve gotten in a while to a streamlined, wearable and most importantly: appealing collection since about S/S07 from McQueen. I don’t love everything but I think he surely deserves some credit for this one.