Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2009

Whenever Yohji sees red, we see sheer perfection.

Needless to say, this collection is simply magical, from beginning to end. Right off the back, we’re greeted with the usual: a bunch of understated but flawless, classic Yohji looks. The fabrics for this season are fab. Whenever he works with a more delicate fabric, not only are the details fantastic, but the result of how the garments look in motion is off-the-charts gorgeous.

Speaking of details, this season is no different in that he is, time and time again, one of the masters. In this collection in particular, off the bat I immediately fall in love with the raw, unhemmed edges on some of the pieces, the gathering, the overlapping panels of the jackets, surprise placement of pockets (!!!) and all the other fantastic details. But of course, when it comes to Yohji… the exterior details are only half the journey. A lot of why I admire him so much is that the clothing is so personal… what you see on the outside is only a small part of the story. For instance, his garments are often transformable; having extra buttons in odd places, so that you can readjust the entire garment, totally transforming the silhouette. It’s things like this that will always make him my favorite… because his works go above the call of duty and change the ideas of what clothing should be about.

Anyways I am going off on one here, so keeping with this actual collection… I’ll get back on track and mention the way certain pieces are dyed because it looks so stunning. I love when garments are dyed this way – trailing off to create a small gradient effect – and it’s such a good element to add to Yohji’s fluid designs. Also the styling of the show is impeccable as always… even coordinating the hair, which is also dyed in patches, with the clothing. The pale white faces only make the red and black color palette all the more stunning and the shoes are a perfect attribute as well.

Ok, let’s face it… anyone who knows me knows I am a Yohji freak, so, as usual… I don’t have any negative words, gripes, or comparisons to spew. NOT because I have a blind love for him and his work – but because he is a god amongst men and he is simply just that good.

Lanvin Fall 2009

Alber really hit it out of the ballpark with this collection. Sure, there is little to nothing here that we haven’t seen at one point or another from Lanvin… however, it so spectacular. A veritable culmination of the best of the brand, this collection screams Lanvin in all it’s glory and why Elbaz proves time again that he is the only man for the job.

Carrying over from his beautiful pre-fall collection, the overall theme is once again decadence. The over the top jewelry, luxurious fabrics and circa 1940’s Parisian styling updated for 2009 work so well together and make this collection a serious work of beauty. One of the best bits, however, is that amongst this rich vibe, there is a slight quirk about it all which gives it such a gorgeous feel overall.

Not only are the furs he chose of amazing quality, the placement of them and detailing of the pieces is so impressive. I love to see fantastic furs with the larger than life necklaces creating a way too done up sort of look – because when I reach the point in my life where I am actually living (my inevitable future since birth) as the scary old gypsy cat lady of the neighborhood… this is totally how I am going to dress. :p

I have to specifically mention the long, slender cut gowns, because that silhouette is so fantastic and you don’t see it much at all in today’s collections, which is unfortunate. Anyway this silhouette looks so amazing here. One of the long dresses is even made of velour – the inbred cousin of fabrics – and it, too, looks amazing. Basically, this collection is beautiful… from the fabrics, to the styling, to the inspiration, the jewelry… everything is lovely.

Comme des Garçons Fall 2009

Rei has come through this season like she hasn’t in a while. Revisiting her lighter side, this collection is so wonderfully whimsical, from the entire concept all the way down to the smallest of details. Not that there is ever a lack of thoughtfulness when it comes to her work, but this time she seems to be re-inspired and has come up with some fresh concepts and mixes them with her usual CdG magic.

I think that overall the collection gives off a strong impression of comfort and protection; from the blankets, to the concept of enveloped garments, to the militarily influenced pieces, etc. The fact that she chose tulle as the encasing fabric says a lot as it is a fabric which can be seen as both delicate as well as strong. I think it’s so precious that she’s used it to restrict much heavier layers underneath, creating a veritable cocoon.

The outerwear is fantastic; ranging from more practical, neutral pieces, to more detail-oriented pieces such as the jackets with the contrast piping. Not only is there a real differential in the materials but the range of different types of outerwear is also great. There are both translucent as well as opaque capes as well as a number of different type of jackets – including some to die for cropped ones – varying in cut and construction.

My favorite part, however, has got to be the multi-paneled skirts and dresses which are bound by a sheer layer of delicate fabric, restricting the layers underneath and subsequently creating very slender silhouettes. The concept is so beautiful and the way she’s pulled it off is actually really brilliant, especially how it encases every single thing, all the way down to the jewelry. Not only is the message powerful but it looks so, so gorgeous.

It’s one of my favorite collections from her in a while, without a doubt. She’s really gotten back to her roots here and the theme and execution of this is so enchanting.

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2009

Bringing us one of the many glorious collections of the day was Ms. Demeulemeester, who has answered my prayers with this collection. The amount of jealously I felt when the men’s collection had pony hair boots and body-engulfing knits is indescribable… as is the amount of joy I felt when I laid eyes on this. Because as it turns out, she has not forgotten her ovary-clad brethren, aterall… and we, too, get a chance to partake in the heaven that must be wearing pony hair riding boots made by the mother of all equestrian boot makers.

I love the sex appeal that this collection gives off, with the super bondage inspired leather corsets as well as the binding going on with some of the pieces as well. I think that mixing overtly sexy with masculine pieces always looks good but here it is particularly appealing as Ann’s pieces are so distinct in their shape and construction.

The nature references are really beautiful as well and I think they were a great choice. Feather headpieces which looked sort of like antlers, paired with the structured feel of her clothes is a unique and lovely combination. I am really glad to see these kind of things going on and to see her moving right along, theme-wise, from season to season again in both of her lines.

I can’t not mention the detailing at least briefly. Once again, I have to mention the binding and restrictions on some of the pieces. I am a total sucker for it in general, and of course I liked it in her SS09 but I think it fits better here; the result is so stunning. Also the beading is gorgeous and I can’t wait to examine those pieces close up.

Junya Watanabe Fall 2009

Thank heavens for people like Junya for keeping the surprise element in fashion. I can’t say that I dont’ know what to expect from him to a certain degree, because that’s just not true… every show is always so obviously Junya but the materials he works with are just so drastically different from season to season that it is still exciting to look forward to. When he decides to go dark, the result is always pure enchantment. Just for his SS09 show we got crazy prints and deconstructed denim pieces and now only a few months later he’s back to black. Not just black, however… black puffa, which surely has to be one of the hardest materials to manipulate into a work of beauty, but low and behold, that’s exactly what he’s done here.

I think it goes without saying that I love the color palette. The way he has just one solitary white garment midway is just so precious and I adore the gold detailing later on in the show… not so much the chains (which admittedly are tacky) but the gold fabrics he incorporated. Adding these subtle gold tones made a big impact amongst the black. Speaking of the black – it’s certainly prominent but not at all overwhelming as it is broken up so well due to the difference in materials and techniques from piece to piece.

As far as the styling and all goes, it’s very typical Junya… which of course is a great thing. I adore how the exaggerated heads are changing from season to season but how they’re still there. The makeup by Kamo this time around though, is particularly amazing… I am really blown away by it. What they’ve done is used very heavy and very strategic shading – as done in paintings – to virtually transform the shape and depth of the face. The way that they’ve done each girl’s makeup different is so good as well as it appears they’re each getting a light shone on them from a different angle.

To sum it up, I love it. Each season, Junya is only further proving himself as a living legend at this point. Lately, I have basically been living in my fav piece from FW08 and I am looking forward very much to owning some of this collection as well.

TAO Comme des Garçons Fall 2009

Tao Kurihara is exactly what the CdG ‘universe’ has been needing. Rei and Junya are both amazing but they are who they are, and taking Tao in has proved to have been a great choice. While she’s heavy-handed with the CdG aesthetic, her look is all her own. She’s progressively been bringing out her playful, fantasy-like designs.

The collection for this season is the total lovechild of her SS07 and FW08… topped with a heavy dose of theatrics and classic CdG design techniques tweaked with what’s becoming her signature subtle-but-impactful flair. I love how she is getting more and more multi-dimensional with her detailing… it’s bringing an extra covetable angle to her work.

I am particularly obsessed with and immediately need to acquire the cinched trousers. The placement of them on the trouser is so perfect and gives off such great shape overall. All of the skirts are just beyond words, really. The ones which are tiered are also pleated and the combined effect is so gorgeous. The ruched skirts are of course incredible, too… Tao’s ruching skills are so unique as she always adds her unique touch to them and it shows. I love the gathered and twisted ones also. the way the fabric looks when it’s all bound up like that creates such a beautiful illusion.

While I personally love the styling of this show, I worry because when designers such as Tao, Rei, Bernhard Willhelm, etc, do such elaborate styling, that it deters a lot of people from noticing how genius the pieces are. I just hope the business won’t be a deterrent because this is so fantastic.

Bruno Pieters Fall 2009

Bruno Pieters just continuously kills it, season after season. Whether he’s doing sterile basics, sequined shorts or his signature geometric designs… the man seems to be able to do no wrong when it comes to his womenswear. He changes his look up quite frequently but his cuts, stitching and tailoring are so signature that no matter how different one collection is to the next, these elements will always scream Pieters. This season, though, is pretty much on track with last season in many ways and seems like a bit of an expansion on that aesthetic… which is lovely.

I love how flawless his clothing looks. The tailoring on his work is in a league of it’s own; it’s always constructed to absolute perfection. The textures and colors are so rich looking together and then combined with how structured the silhouettes are, it’s all a match made in heaven, really.

Bruno’s got such a unique flair for geometric designs; it never looks arts and crafts-y or like he is trying too hard. He does well by not incorporating accessories and also by going minimal on the styling… it definitely forces the eye to really appreciate his designs as they are – and as they are, they’re just perfect garments.

The way that he does the geometrical stitching patterns and builds upon the exterior of the pieces by creating lovely linear compositions within them give his work such a distinct sharpness that is all his own.

Sharon Wauchob Fall 2009

I have to give a huge THANK YOU to the amazing Ms. Wauchob for saving the day with frankly what is an impeccable collection. A beautiful collection from Sharon is no surprise, of course… but she really went all out this season, in every aspect. Her aesthetic is always dependably refreshing and she’s always bringing interesting techniques and other new things into the mix but always so consistent… without having to play it safe in any way.

Ok, first… two words: the fur. I almost died when the first fur looks emerged, because of the extreme luxuriousness and also the lack of modesty within them; they are big, decadent and completely transform the silhouette into some serious drama. The look with the grey fur was the perfect transition into the batch of purple looks, as well.

The rest of the collection is an absolute textural treat, as well. Not only is the whole collection a mashup of fur, leather, metallic and more – but the intermixing of the textures within the pieces is done so well. It’s not overboard but instead it looks to have all been very precisely designed.

Sharon is definitely one of the masters of gathering and draping and I think this collection reinforces that a great deal. Everything from very heavy outerwear all the way to slinky dresses – it all wears so well. The way the pieces hang on the body is just fabulous no matter the material she uses for them.

Since there is just so much to mention about this collection, I almost forgot to bring up how much I am dying over some of the trousers… simply perfect cuts and I love the detailing on them. I NEED the ones in the last row, 2nd pic in from the left. The gathered knee trousers that I have from her last fall collection have fast become some of my favorite trousers, so I definitely can’t wait to pick up a pair from this collection as well.

Today of all days, particularly after the sheer DISASTERS that were Balenciaga, Balmain (no surprise there, though, of course.. Balmain is such horrible shit), Anne-Valerie Hash and most others as well, this was particularly lovely to see. Bruno Pieters was amazing though and Rick Owens! will post pics ASAP

Rick Owens Fall 2009

There is so much beauty here that I barely know where to begin… although I guess the stunning color palette is as good a place to start as any. The opening barrage of heavy black looks progress to ascend into pale blue-ish grey pieces, leading the collection into an all-out galactic, evil, ice princess assault. The fact that muted neutrals are used as accentual colors here is also something worth mentioning. It is all so lovely, a true visual pleasure. Despite the lack of dark colors, his pieces still contain a lot of depth and richness.

Aside from the colors, I am absolutely dying over the cuts. Sure, there are a handful or two of cuts we have seen from Rick before… but instead of simply recycling the designs, he definitely tweaks and refines the outerwear, season by season. One of the things I’m actually the most enamored about here is how he has really got everything so perfect this time around. There are some obvious experiments but mostly everything just looks so refined and well polished – but still maintains the hard edge we know and love his work for. Just beautiful, really.

Owens has such an uncanny ability to rework the standard female silhouette – and I truly don’t think he is recognized enough for this talent. The way he deconstructs, and then completely rebuilds the silhouette and totally distorts the proportions… frankly, it’s nothing short of phenomenal. It’s like the materialistic equivalent of what the early cubists did for modern art and it truly surprises me this genius aspect of his design is often overlooked. It’s such a feat, really.

I often see people say Rick Owens is too same-y and it really gets me. I mean… I wonder if these people really believe this or if they’re just talking out of their asses sometime. There is a HUGE difference between being same-y and being a visionary who has the ability to carry over their distinct design aesthetic from season to season, meanwhile almost completely reworking and evolving the theme of each collection. He is truly the undisputed messiah of this… being able to be a complete chameleon but also maintain his sense of self. I think people mistake being same-y for the fact that his aesthetic is 100% irrefutable, no matter how much he shapes and shifts it.

Gareth Pugh Fall 2009

Let me just preface by admitting that yes… I am well aware that this is far too Rick Owens for Gareth’s own good. I think he should be mindful of this, as far as his integrity as a visionary goes… HOWEVER, being the rampant Pugh/Owens-obsesser that I am, you’re not going to hear me complain about the aesthetic love child of these two men.

While the silhouettes and cuts scream Mr. Owens, the materials definitely make this collection undeniably Pugh. He’s managed to encompass a lot of the detailing from his FW09 menswear, while seemingly has pretty much abandoned the aesthetic of his SS09 women’s line. I think this is more to the core of Pugh but to be honest, I was actually looking forward to seeing how he’d mesh this aesthetic WITH the one of SS09 womens. Maybe in the future he will go that route, who knows.

I think an important progression to mention is that these clothes look so beautifully constructed although he is still using very a-typical, industrial type materials and detailing. There is a definite refinement taking place which is admirable… I appreciate that he is upping his ante without losing himself and his original vision.

The outerwear for instance is to die for; those classic Owens cuts mixed with Pugh’s very inorganic materials is such a clear win. The metallics really enhance some of the silhouettes and give a cool effect. One thing I am not thrilled about is these wide leg trousers. I don’t hate wide leg trousers by any means… I own and wear a few pairs, but the ones here look sort of awkward and dare I say it, a bit matronly. What more than made up for that, though, are the amazing, ridiculously long goth dresses/skirts. I’m always a lover of long skirts and combined with these textures, they definitely made my heart skip a beat.

Overall I am fond of the collection. The outerwear, the boots, the beautiful textured tights – it’s all beautiful and I can’t wait to get my hands on some more pieces.