Marc le Bihan Fall 2008

This is such a great collection overall but I’ve chosen my favorite photos from the bunch for this collage. I think they do well at showcasing the overall theme of the collection. It’s incredibly monochromatic, just like I like it, but within that there’s so much intricacy. The execution on each of the many different types of techniques showcased is basically flawless. From drape-y, voluminous pieces, to crisp, white blouses with unusual and fantastic cuts and pleating, this collection has got it all if you look beyond the color palette and heavy styling. There are so many delicately constructed pieces that could be so versatile when taken out of the element of presentation this collection showcases them within. Personally, though, I love heavy layering; it shows so much character. The layers are each unique but together they make something even more beautiful. Overall, I think this is Marc Le Bihan’s best collection to date. It is so thoughtful and well executed… great work!

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Kiminori Morishita Menswear Spring 2009

How adorable is this collection and presentation? Tremendously, yes. Following the current trend of feminizing the male persuasion, Morishita pulls off this idea in an endearing and sweet way… rather than the more popularized objectifying, turning-the-tables type of way which other designers have this season as well as in some of the F/W 08 shows, such as Ms. Miuccia’s. I love the frivolous aspect of it all, and I even love how that is barely counteracted by anything flashy or rough; everything looks so delicate, soft and lovely.

Morishita did one of my favorite spins on the leggings under pants trend this season, for sure, using these opaque and neutral tones. I really like how they are more like tights than leggings in some of the looks; in fact those are my favorite. Paired with the ribbon-tied mary jane type of shoe, these socks look so cute, especially paired with these versatile blazers and short pants. There are so many ideas here it’s hard to tap into them all without absolutely rambling, especially since I don’t have anything negative or critical to say! I adore so many of the concepts, from the use of leather, to the themes and all the way down to the fabrics and palette.

Suffice to say I really like this one and think the nail was hit on the head. The presentation and styling of the collection are adorable, yes… but don’t let that overshadow the fact that there are many incredible individual pieces in here to be found as well.

Somarta Spring 2009

The last day of JFW was an amazing one, mostly due to Somarta, brought to you by the amazing Tamae Hirokawa. She may have studied under the legendary Issey Miyake but she’s developing her brand so well on her own now. The trademarks from each season carry over, but the new ideas also keep popping up. The umbrella skirts are simply amazing in this collection… the construction is flawless and it gives such an incredible play in volume. The exoskeleton looking knits are by far my favorite thing; so organic and so futuristic and forward-thinking at the same time, just really stunning. As always, Somarta’s presentation was such a treat also. A year ago, for SS08 we saw dark, tribal face paint, mimicking her trademark tights/bodysuit/gloves patterns… this year the models are donned with awesome headgear and body shimmer, adding to the overall direction of the clothing. Everything is perfect, can’t wait to see what Ms. Hirokawa has in store for us in future seasons.

Véronique Branquinho Menswear Spring 2009

Véronique delivers a solid, wearable, well-executed and appropriate collection for this spring / summer, which would seemingly be the point… yet not many designers manage to get it all quite right. More impressively, she pulls off all of the aforementioned feats meanwhile incorporating most all of this season’s hottest runway trends. We see stripes, plaid, the infamous pants under shorts and one bold accent color. Thankfully, no two toning or color blocking here which adds to this collection’s refreshing qualities. If I were a guy, I’d be all over this like white on rice. It is so flattering and so now, but at the same time, classic and also forward-thinking. I adore the silhouettes. Everything is just very well done… go Véronique!