Y-3 Fall 2009

I swear I am not only posting about Y-3 because I’d rather be subjected to prolonged torture than to write about collections like Marc Jacobs or Alexander Wang. Even Preen, who I was looking forward to, sucked this season… so it’s nice that certain shows such as Y-3 were pleasantly surprising. Well, I have been glad with the progression of the brand over recent seasons now but I think this collection really shows the brand has come into it’s own. I mean, even I love it – and I have a severe to alarming fundamental aversion to all things sneakers and sportswear.

Of course, I have to mention first about these adorable children on the runway. I love that the clothes for kids are very sort of common looking overall – but where the Yamamoto genius lies is in the proportions and silhouette. The plays on volume and non conventional lengths but the clothing stays within a ‘friendly’ color palette and uses fabrics that are comfortable and easy to care for, so these designs are still completely feasible and right for the brand.

The rest of the collection was nothing to shake a stick at, though; I’d actually wear a ton of the pieces! I love how Y-3 brings the signature YY combined element of class and unusuality to even a genre like sportswear, which is usually hideous (hello, D-Squared!) and makes it look so slick. I am also loving the runway styling and I like the fact that it’s presented in such a way that blurs the line between the functionality and the aesthetics of the clothing.

Rodarte Fall 2009

Rodarte presented their collection yesterday and thank heavens for that. NYFW is such a dreadful bore save for VERY few designers, and naturally these two lovely ladies are on that short list. At this point I feel more than comfortable saying that the Mulleavy sisters not only don’t disappoint – but are also clearly striving toward new territories. This is so admirable because they don’t HAVE to do this yet. The last 3 seasons they sort of built a trademark and I definitely admire that they’re not confined within that. To be honest, I assumed we’d see another collection prominently lead by the deconstructed knitwear, which, you know… probably would have been fine, all things considered. But they are already moving along and aspiring to new heights – and while I see some strong influences here – I still think that’s pretty commendable.

These girls must have been working their tails off to have pulled this collection together and I have to say, for me anyhow, it was worth it. The silhouette and some of the bold detailing has not changed this season – but nearly everything else has evolved in some way. The textures here are nothing short of INCREDIBLE. All of the different fabrics intertwined give such a lovely effect. I admire a good print manipulator, such as Dries Van Noten. Blending prints and textures isn’t the easiest thing to do, but some people can just work it in that area and I think Rodarte have fallen into this category as well.

I mentioned above that I see some influences here, perhaps entirely coincidental, of course. The first one – and this was probably due to the boots and color palette – I thought of McQueen’s Fall 2007 collection. Also the textures as well as colors also brought Somarta Fall 2008 to mind, big time.

All in all, I like it. I like Rodarte. I support them a great deal and appreciate them, along with people like Rick Owens, bringing some credibility back to american design. I love that they’re exploring their craft instead of getting into a comfort zone. I can’t wait to see these girls in Paris. Someone make it happen already!

also – I will try to edit this post ASAP with detail shots and whatever else I can find because clearly with Rodarte, the details are where the magic lives.

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall 2009

For a change in recent seasons, I was pretty happy with a few of the haute couture collections which I had been pretty bored with. Above all though, is definitely Gaultier’s collection. While it’s not as good as his best ones, it’s certainly very beautiful!

From heavily embellished short dresses, to elaborate and dramatic gowns, all the way to sexy, structured suits, there is truly a little bit of everything here. Speaking of the embellishment, it’s beyond impressive; not only in intricacy but the compositions are really gorgeous on top of these already well-cut garments. I love the reoccurring smoke-like designs and the differed sized netted fabrics layered on one another or on solid fabric. It is a nice contrast to the sharpness of the designs in general.

The looks really speak for themselves, though. So many gorgeous elements here to admire and like I said, while it’s not his best offering, it’s nothing to shake a stick at by any means. However, whether they’re worth shaking a credit card at may be a different story.

Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Fall 2009

I really loved Ann’s menswear collection this year, and I guess if you’ve looked at the images above, it is no surprise why. The overall mood is so romantic without being cheesy; it’s reall lovely. Also, I think this collection is a step in the right direction for her, as I was getting quite bored with the whole purple thing that kept continuing over. While this is very much the Ann we all know and love, it is a notch above what she’s been doing (in both her men’s and women’s lines) for the last couple of years.

The color palette is a dream and couldn’t be more suited to the pieces themselves. I really like all of the jackets she’s shown here. While they’re nothing new, they’re perfectly suited for the vibe she’s created with this collection. Also, the fabrics she used for them – and in the collection as a whole – are nothing short of perfect; these rich, strong, luxurious fabrics really do everything to enhance the designs and help create the perfect silhouettes.

Aside from amazing fabrics, her great choice of materials did not stop there. A few fur pieces made an appearance and really step up the whole collection. Texture wise, there is so much going on within these individual fur garments; they’re truly an aesthetic treat in addition to surely feeling divine to the touch.

Another element that makes this a truly fantastic collection is without a doubt the knitwear! I can hardly believe the size and volume of some of these knitted pieces. In the closeups, the patterns within the knit look intricate, clean and so soft – meanwhile overall creating a top-heavy and amazing silhouette.

To counterbalance the elaborate tops, are plenty of wonderful boots, Ann style. Her more classic models make a reappearance this season as well as plenty of new ones to keep breaking the bank of her fans, including an absolutely irresistible pair of pony hair equestrian boots. The kind of boot that make me wish I were a male, just to be able to wear them; they are decadent and the light shines off them brilliantly.

Miharayasuhiro Fall 2009

Yasuhiro’s collection was certainly one of the most easy on the eyes out of what we saw this season. With the soft neutral color palette and overall air of comfort and ease, there’s not much to dislike here.

First of all, the trousers are amazing. The cut is perfect and also the drop crotch is pulled off flawlessly; doesn’t come across as too trendy or gimmicky. Aside from the drop crotch ones, the skinny cut ones look fantastic as well as the cropped trousers. There is a lot to admire here but I just had to mention the pants right off the bat.

The outerwear is really nice as well, and is very cohesive with the collection as a whole. Many of the pieces could be styled either in a casual or more dressed up looking way, and with the cost of high end designer outerwear, versatility is truly an important factor. But enough with all that practicality nonsense – the pieces look mighty good, which is the most important thing, right?

The accessories are really the icing on the cake. While I don’t love them all personally, I very much appreciate the craftsmanship that’s gone in; they have an aged look to them which increases their appeal quite a bit. I like the quirkiness of the embellishments and hardware… it all adds a very cool touch to the collection.

Gareth Pugh Menswear Fall 2009

Well, it has happened! Gareth has shown his first all-menswear collection in Paris and in my opinion, it went off quite well. The collection isn’t nearly as androgynous as I was anticipating, but I can definitely appreciate where (I speculate) that he is coming from here.

As far as the theme… well, let’s face it, you’d have to be blind not to notice the industrial/goth/club overtones. I think perhaps he could have taken a less literal approach – but I have to say, that is one of my only gripes. I think the overtness of such a throwback and rebellious genre may not work in his best interests as far as how it will be perceived by others. However, I am fine with it, but then again, I am pretty sure he and I have similar backgrounds as far as that whole scene goes.

Given that he’s been producing and showing menswear for a while now, I wasn’t sure what to expect from a solo mens show – particularly after the extravagant SS09 womenswear collection he just graced us with. While I don't think this is the greatest collection ever, I do think it’s pretty impressive that this FW09 menswear line was not only a complete departure from his SS09 womens, but it was actually a progression upon the menswear he’s been working at for quite some time now.

He went with the patent leather triangle garments to act as the centerpiece of the collection, providing a great array of different takes on the design, including suits, trenches, puffy winter jackets, pants, etc. It’s safe to say the best part of this is the outerwear, and surely that’s no accident. After owning one of these pieces – I have to say I am really excited about the prospect of more. But unfortunately, I think people who haven’t handled or worn his pieces easily write them off as ‘unwearable’, when really they’re anything but.

Pugh’s work is funded in part by Rick Owens and in turn, is produced at the prestigious Olmar+Mirta factory – the same place as Rick’s stuff is made. When people say his stuff looks cheap and poorly constructed, it’s a sure sign they’ve never worn Pugh’s stuff themselves, as the construction is actually quite great and the materials are the same ones that are used in Rick’s lines.

I also have to mention the boots, which are phenomenal. I love severe and heavy footwear and, well… who doesn’t love a good skullkicker type of boot, anyway?

overall – bravo to Gareth. Can’t wait to see what he’s got lined up for his next womenswear show

Rick Owens Menswear Fall 2009

True to form, he delivered nothing particularly outrageous or unexpected, however, that it not to say it was boring or a disappointment – by any means. Some people are bothered by monochromatic collections, which I suppose I can empathize with to a degree. However, if there is enough beauty, depth and thought put into the textures and details within that singular color palette – then not only am I not bothered by it, but I find it totally admirable. My closet is basically monochromatic and therefore I heavily rely on interesting textures, beautiful fabrics and intricate detailing to build upon it.

At any rate, I think he’s done some great things here, if you take the time to consider. The variety of different leathers and textiles is so delicious; particularly the crocodile jacket with asymmetrical zipper – I think it’s fantastic. The proportions are nothing new, but they always look fresh to me, but I suppose maybe I am just a typical Rick fan in that way.

Perhaps he might catch some heat for these boots with the fur, so to speak. However, knowing Rick’s background, he came from the LA club / freak show scene of the late 80’s and if you are elderly enough (don’t worry, I am too) to remember those days, or possibly have been to a rave or two during that time, one of the things that the lovely gender benders would wear were hot pants with these elaborate DIY fur boots. The ones he’s done here are very similar in concept and material (although clearly his are ridiculously higher end), so I can’t help but wonder if this is somehow a nod to that era somehow.

Overall I really like it. I think some of the looks were maybe a little redundant, at least for a runway presentation, but it was also nice to see the range of things he’s produced. The basics, as usual are genius, the styling is amazing and what’s nearly the best part about is work is – the quality of the materials and the construction is perfect.

Number (N)ine Fall 2009 "A Closed Feeling"

I’ve come to not speculate in advance on N(N) shows because frankly there is no point anymore. What was once a brand who came a bit close to falling in a niche, has emerged as one with fully themed collections which, at the very least, have been entertaining. Good thing I didn’t bother speculating because I am not sure I would have ventured into the ballpark of this collection. Constructed out of an array of textures and fabrics that look eerily similar to my grandmother’s sofas, which have been encased under clear vinyl slip covers for the last fifty years... this collection is a special one to say the least.

From the all-too-obvious influences Miyashita took here, to the maturity in the silhouette, there is a lot to think about and a lot to take in aesthetically. The silhouettes are so lovely; the capes and cuts of the jackets are divine. Styling and proportion-wise, how could I not love this? The top-heavy shape due to the hats and structured upper half of the body paired with a skirt or cropped trouser and boot; it’s definitely such a great look.

The textures, patterns, fabrics, embellishment, fringe – there are a million things that draw the eye in… but it’s all so cohesive and beautiful. The color palette is seriously a dream; I adore the, for lack of a better term, earthy tones, topped off with the muted colors. The styling is heavy but isn’t it always with N(N)? For me, it works.

The emotional impact of this collection is so strong - the array of different textures, like wearing every single thing in the house at once. The paranoia, the reclusive factor, the hiding, the beauty... it's just a masterpiece from head to toe, beginning to end. Eternal thanks to Miyashita for being beyond brilliant.

Today is only just day 2 of Paris as well – lots more shows on the way.

Lanvin Pre-Fall 2009

Oh, Mr. Elbaz, thank you. I was really scared after Spring’s frankly cheap looking collection… but this not only reinstated my love and faith in his vision for Lanvin, but it’s actually stunning above and beyond that. The rich fabrics, the heavy styling and mucho accessories – it’s overtly luxurious and I love it. I would love to kidnap him, pinch his cheeks and buy him a pink and blue swirl lollipop for this collection. Yeah, sure… we are in a recession. But do I want to look like I am? No. Bring on the decadence, I say.

I am absolutely in love with the fur coats/bolero here because, while I’m very glad fur has made a comeback, I see a lot of cheap looking pieces out there currently (even if their price tag is not), but these are phenomenal and I love what he’s conveying with them. The huge dramatic collars warm my cold soul and paired with the slouchy gloves and draped fabrics… oh yes! I love how the color palette is completely out shined by the wide array of different textured fabrics; they all give off a different effect, therefore rendering layered blacks to almost appear as different shades. This effect, paired with the impressively strategic use of metallics and the intense gathering in all the right places sends my mind into overdrive.

Yohji Yamamoto Y's Spring 2009

Another Y’s collection, another success. As usual, the silhouettes are grand, and while they’re often not as dramatic as YY’s, it doesn’t necessarily mean they’re a step down. Y’s is one of the few labels I have a hard time swallowing when someone refers to it as a diffusion label – because I think the aesthetic is so consistently strong and impressive that it really has it’s own legs to stand on without being constantly compared or downgraded by being referred to as diffusion.

At any rate, these clothes are gorgeous as usual. The dresses and skirts are so beautiful and the fabrics look incredible as well. Everything looks extremely comfortable and the fabrics, delicate or not, drape wonderfully. The trousers are all cut to perfection and I love the color palette for spring as well.