I know my blog may seem like an advertisement feed for Undercover but I swear I simply just think Takahashi is a brilliant man! So… if you’ve got a free 7 minutes, please check out this video of him constructing – live on stage – one of his Grace dolls, from start to finish! 
enjoy! xoxo
------> video <-----
My beloved Ms. Yamamoto has fully integrated into the Paris world, after a few seasons of showing her collection there, by opening a retail shop inside of her showroom venue. For nine months of the year it will be a shop and for the rest of the time, will serve as a lovely showroom. I really adore the whole vision of this; the entry way is so beautiful and apparently leads you to a courtyard filled with plants and then onto her showroom. The fuchsia is used so brilliantly, how it leads the eye to the shop itself… and then the inside space is so clean and precise. The chairs and table in the center is really adorable as well. I can’t wait to visit!
For anyone in the area who would like to stop by and support Limi, the address is as follows:
13, rue de Turbigo 75002 Paris (Metro: Etienne Marcel)
Tuesday – Saturday 11am – 7pm
Mr. Simons has had such an impressive run thus far, in hindsight, even if I was unsure of where he was headed at a few points… and I just thought I’d give credit where credit was due. I like that he’s always taken chances. I also like that his new work looks nothing like this collection above – despite the fact that I love it. I enjoy the progression of his work over the years and seeing the nods at his former self along the way.
To speak on this collection in particular, I really think the styling clearly lent a hand and a half to how well received this show was – however, I don’t think that detracts from the collection’s actually integrity. There is a wonderful range of pieces shown and the collection has some great aspects. People marvel at the political commentary he depicted here, but I sort of disagree. While I’m actually fine with the pieces aesthetically – I don’t think the intention is so novel, and some of his other collections have a MUCH higher level of political influence – they’re simply just not as literal. All in all, I really liked this collection; the fabrics are really nice, the construction is great and I love the fit of these pieces.
He's definitely one of the most important and underrated designers of our era, and though I'm not sure where he's headed sometimes with some of his newer stuff, he'll always have a special place in my heart.
How magical is this collection and presentation? I am just in love with it. Last season, I loved the collection as well; it’s always beautiful, though, due to the nature of the aesthetic in general. However, this season’s look book is particularly a delight because unlike last season, these ones are in color. I think the color palette of the clothing really needs to be seen to grasp the full concept. The colors are warm, inviting and so complimentary to the look of the clothes. As far as textures go, these pieces are a dream. Layered or on their own, each garment is rich enough in every aspect to be a stand-out piece on it’s own… yet you can endlessly layer the pieces of this collection and it wouldn’t look overdone. It’s just beautiful overall, there isn’t a bad word to say, really. Collections which are highly themed but not gimmicky aren’t easy to accomplish but I think Aski does it so well. There is such a whimsical overtone to the clothing and when that’s pulled off in a beautiful way, it is a great thing.
The styling is fairly minimal yet it does an effective job at showcasing the clothes. But I think because the garments individually possess so much life within them that that was really the best route. There is something to be said for the fabrics used and also the construction of them; it shows much thought, integrity and is so well edited – nothing is remotely lover the top. I love the way the denim is integrated into the otherwise very organic and earthy palette.
I am pretty delighted with this collection, although most of it is not my cup of tea as far as my personal style goes. It is, however, right up my alley in terms of all that it accomplishes and for it’s uniqueness. An astounding amount of designers have jumped on the colorful bandwagon recently, which is great in some cases… not so much in others. Anyhow, I think more people could take a cue or two from a collection like this. It is fun, it is light in mood, it is bright and lovely – but it is simple, it doesn’t take itself too seriously and there are a glorious amount of details to be enchanted by.
The humble draping and thoughtful cuts are two of the most prominent aspects of the collection, along with the slightly understated but wonderfully complimentary and charming color palette. I really like the play at asymmetry without going entirely serve… it gives an overall soft edge type of feeling. The pieces are beautiful on their own but also are a dream if you’re someone who loves to layer, like I do.
As far as the materials go, that may be one of my favorite parts of this. While they may not be the most luxurious or high end, I can really appreciate the mix of textures and different variations going on; I think it all enhances well the overall theme.
If you checked out the scoute interview on Mr. Taralis, you read mention of a much anticipated S/S 09 collection from the man. Well, some photos have surfaced… and here they are!
This collection is exciting for me because I think he really has done a great job at showcasing who he is as a designer, with it. Smart and very current clothing for the humbly stylish man – but with enough impressive details to really make it all something special. The sheer blazer and trench? Oh god, I am so in love. Not only are they beautifully constructed garments but a man in a conservative garment that happens to be sheer… that is so lovely. Aside from the sheer pieces, the clothing is just solid from every aspect. Unfortunately this isn’t the kind of menswear I personally can wear because it is too masculine – which is actually a great thing, and refreshing at this point – but I admire every bit of it none the less.
One thing in particular that I admire about Taralis is his dedication to staying “in the now” and designing for the present time. Heaven knows I love a good vintage or futuristic inspired collection but let’s face it… there is something to be said for someone who completely has their own vision and can accomplish a completely current collection, themes and gimmicks aside, and that’s something he can do very well.
If I wasn’t already, these images leave me in utter anticipation of his forthcoming women’s line! I really can’t wait to see what he’ll bring forth. The good thing is we’ve only until March to find out. The time has almost arrived.
One of my favorite collections, this Spring 2003 offering of his was definitely one to remember. As he often does, this collection is a bit of a culmination of past techniques (and retrospectively speaking – future ones too) but it is still pretty stand-out, in my opinion. It is really refined and incredibly directional. I always seem to fall for his very narrowly conceptual collections over the varied ones, I’ve noticed, although they’re all delicious.
First of all, I love collars… and this collection has all sorts and they’re either perfectly understated or brilliantly – and in the most effortless of manners – exaggerated. The overall silhouette is a comfortable one but, much like Spring 2009, has a ton of femininity sprinkled throughout the androgynous feel. Another thing I enjoy about this collection is the use of transparency as it’s very subtle yet makes it’s presence in really lovely places; he’s always quite good at the voluminous transparency but I think the way it’s used in an understated manner here is really nice.
As is no surprise, I also am a huge fan of the styling here, and think some of Tao’s collections are rather reminiscent of it. It’s very clean and straight-forward in it’s presentation, as his shows usually are. I really like the understated but ‘pretty’ aspects of it. The pink lipstick and loose finger wave styling of the hair paired with vintage-inspired headpieces really bring it all full circle.
A couple of weeks ago, the lovely people at Supreme Model Management featured some of my older paintings on their blog. It is an honor for me as Supreme is by far my most respected modeling agency and I fully support and believe in their vision of striking, unconventional beauty. It’s more than flattering to get this opportunity from people who I admire the work of. If you want to check the few pieces they selected to feature in the submission, then just click the image above.
Thanks so much to the awesome people @ Supreme, best agency <3
xo
The December issue of scoute.org, one of the publications I contribute to, is now available! This time I just picked some of the ‘Hers’ gift ideas in the Spend section. The issue itself is nothing short of fantastic, however.
It features not one but two major interviews with a couple of designers, who have both got their own respective cult followings. Damir Doma is a newer name in the industry, so the interview is a good chance to get better acquainted with the likes of him. The other interview is a true treat, as it is with Nicolas Andreas Taralis, who is hands-down one of the best in menswear (and beyond!) who’s currently in the game. The interview also talks about his upcoming Spring 2009 line, from which only a couple of sort of ambiguous photos have surfaced thus far. Definitely lots of exciting info to be found in this issue.
Be on the look out for the next issue in which there will be an interview with the ever-so-coveted Maurizio Amadei.
-> scoute.org <-
Rick Owens’ style couldn’t be more recognizable at this point. It’s distinctness is both a blessing and a curse. People will either excitedly recognize it or say it looks too similar as the previous season. And to be fair, this one actually does. However, I still fall more into the former category of being excited about it. As I’m sure is apparent by now… I like when a designer does something and does it well. I like the continuity, I like the subtle progression, I like the honesty. Unfortunately in a high paced environment like that of our fashion world, this persistence is often and easily written off a being boring or a one-note.
Anyways, on to my thoughts on this collection in particular… it is peculiarly similar to last season, right down to the presentation, model and styling. But there is something really admirable and slightly amusing about this. As far as the clothes go… they’re lovely, they’re Rick, they’re clothes that malnourished young men will look sexy in… you know, the usual. There is enough progression here to keep my interest, though. I love the gradient leather jacket with the contrast sleeves, it’s really nice looking. I love the cut of the leathers, the proportions and – even though it’s something we’ve seen before – the styling; it just works.
If I’m going to start posting old collections which I love, then surely this one has to be one of the first to go up. And if ever there was a collection where Takahashi showcases an undeniable manifestation of his genius, then again, here it is. This season was a sight to behold as it encompassed a good degree of what he is all about. It’s a veritable whirlwind of gorgeous and innovative concepts, pulled off with the finest of execution.
His flair for combining functionality with glamour and subsequently spawning mind-blowing results is so apparent in this collection and has since become one of the things Takahashi is known best for. The luxurious but quirky details manage to make it all just that much more special as there is so much to look at and so much to admire from every facet. I own one of the dresses from this collection and it is a dream; layer upon delicate layer of silk, with such fine details and contrasts in texture. The intricacy and high end quality of his work, not only conceptually but execution-wise is truly something special.
Many people marvel at his seamless ‘transitions’ from streetwear to high end design, but in my opinion, what is most impressive to me about Takahashi is that he doesn’t so much transition, as to pull from his many sources of inspiration and different creative visions and combines the concepts into fresh ideas all together. I don’t think he abandons one for the other but rather draws from a more advanced playing field due to his vast talents and styles. I think they all benefit from each other greatly.
I am always left with the feeling of a terrible void after fashion weeks end each season, so I’ve decided that in the absence of new collections, I should post some of my favorite collections of the past. The good thing is, many of them have proved to be timeless, so rather than taking a dated look back, it’s actually nice to see how well they’ve held up with time and it makes me appreciate them that much more. I hope you’ll all enjoy them as well.
The first one I chose was Comme des Garçons’ S/S 03. Rei has always been such a master of her craft and taking a look back really solidifies that. This collection in particular was one of my favorites of hers simply because it does a good job at showcasing some of the things that she did well at the time and ultimately went on to be known for. Her gathering and ruching techniques have always been so admirable and the construction of her pieces is always so unique.
One thing in particular I have always loved about Rei, which is really plain to see in this collection, is that while the techniques she uses are used by many designers, her work always seems so personal. It is never too polished looking, too symmetrical, but rather it is a lovely visualization of brilliant trains of thought… ones which are not restricted by the confines of traditional construction. Her work is just so honest in that regard. The result is that the garments end up telling an intricate story and are able to lead the eye in unexpected places.
Thursday, January, the 22nd
10.30 am – HUGO, HUGO BOSS [Couvent des Cordeliers - 15 rue de l'Ecole de Médecine - Paris 6e]
11.30 am – KILGOUR [To be confirmed]
12.30 pm – GASPARD YURKIEVICH [Salon des Miroirs - 13 passage Jouffroy - Paris 9e]
1.30 pm – UTE PLOIER [Maison des Métallos - salle Blanche - 94 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud - Paris 11e]
2.30 pm – LOUIS VUITTON [See invitation]
4.00 pm – NUMBER (N)INE [Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts - Salle Melpomène - 13 quai Malaquais - Paris 6e]
5.00 pm – JEAN PAUL GAULTIER [325 rue Saint-Martin - Paris 3e]
6.00 pm – YOHJI YAMAMOTO [155 rue Saint-Martin - Paris 3e]
7.00 pm – VERONIQUE BRANQUINHO [Maison des Métallos - salle Noire - 94 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud - Paris 11e]
8.00 pm – DRIES VAN NOTEN [To be confirmed]
9.00 pm – HENRIK VIBSKOV [Espace Saint Martin - 199 bis rue Saint-Martin - Paris 3e]
Friday, January, the 23rd
10.00 am – JUNYA WATANABE MAN [See invitation]
11.00 am – BLAAK HOMME [To be confirmed]
12.00 pm – THIERRY MUGLER [Couvent des Cordeliers]
1.00 pm – RICK OWENS [Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts - Salle Melpomène - 13 quai Malaquais - Paris 6e]
2.00 pm – JUUN J. [BETC EURO RSCG- 85/87 rue du faubourg Saint-Martin - Paris 10e]
3.00 pm – KRIS VAN ASSCHE [Musée de l'Homme]
4.00 pm – COMME DES GARCONS HOMME PLUS [Voir invitation]
5.00 pm – CERRUTI [Cité de l'Architecture - 11 avenue Albert de Mun - Paris 16e]
6.00 pm – GIVENCHY [Musée Bourdelle - 18 rue Antoine Bourdelle - Paris 15e]
7.00 pm – RAF SIMONS [Musée de l'Homme]
8.30 pm – JOHN GALLIANO [To be confirmed]
Saturday, January, the 24th
10.00 am – MIHARAYASUHIRO [Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts - Salle Melpomène - 13 quai Malaquais - Paris 6e]
11.00 am – KENZO [Palais de Tokyo - 13 avenue du Président Wilson - Paris 16e]
12.00 pm – ARMAND BASI [Maison des Métallos - 94 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud - Paris 11e]
1.00 pm – TILLMANN LAUTERBACH [Palais Brongniart]
2.00 pm – ANN DEMEULEMEESTER [Couvent des Cordeliers - 15 rue de l'Ecole de Médecine - Paris 6e]
3.00 pm – KAZUYUKI KUMAGAI / ATTACHMENT [Garage Turenne - 66 rue de Turenne - Paris 3e]
4.00 pm – WINTLE [Atelier Richelieu - 60 rue de Richelieu - Paris 2e]
5.00 pm – DAMIR DOMA [Elysée Montmartre]
6.00 pm – EMANUEL UNGARO [To be confirmed]
7.00 pm – PETAR PETROV [Espace Saint Martin - 199 bis rue Saint-Martin - Paris 3e]
8.00 pm – HERMÈS [To be confirmed]
9.00 pm – JEROEN VAN TUYL [To be confirmed]
Sunday, January, the 25th
10.00 am – U-NI-TY [To be confirmed]
11.00 am – LANVIN [See invitation]
12.00 pm – WOOYOUNGMI [Le Labo]
1.00 pm – MASATOMO [Hôtel Meurice - 228 rue de Rivoli - Paris 1er]
2.00 pm – DIOR HOMME [To be confirmed]
3.00 pm – PAUL SMITH [Couvent des Cordeliers - 15 rue de l'Ecole de Médecine - Paris 6e]
4.00 pm – WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK [Bataclan]
5.00 pm – AGNÈS B. [17 rue Dieu - Paris 10e]
6.00 pm – JULIUS [Maison des Métallos - salle Noire - 94 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud - Paris 11e]
7.00 pm – ROMAIN KREMER [Maison des Métallos - salle Blanche - 94 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud - Paris 11e]
8.00 pm – DUNHILL [La Maison de l’Architecture - Couvent des Recollets - 148 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin - Paris 10e]
9.00 pm – GARETH PUGH [To be confirmed]
Aside from Gareth’s collection, I am really looking forward to a bunch of other shows as well. Ute Ploier has me eternally pulling for her to bring back some of the magic and creativity that her Fall 2008 collection showcased. It was so solid, it was weird to see her revert back to Rafism after such a great response, so I am hopeful to see what she’ll present.
Also I want to see Julius – why? Maybe I am a glutton for punishment, but perhaps they’ll come with something new… something that doesn’t look dreadfully similar to the last bunch of seasons. It’s getting OLD, time to move on. When they were on point it was so good but they really milked it horribly.
Number (N)ine has me in great anticipation after the range of styles that have been popping up, I definitely am looking forward to seeing what is coming next! I hope it’s a mixture of the N(N) roots and new inspirations, instead of something completely out of left field or reminiscent but we’ll see – it never disappoints, either way.
I am really hoping that Damir Doma sort of takes it up a level or expands his horizons a bit, be it with different textures, new concepts, cuts, something – because while I adore him, let’s face it, he is being lumped in with the “goth ninja” cliche but I personally believe his potential is much higher than this niche.
Bruno Pieters for Hugo is pretty exciting for me. I have high expectations for him but it’s because of the great things we’ve seen him do. He could breathe a hideously needed breath of fresh air into a brand who’s name is synonymous with… well… not a whole lot of positives.
Dior Homme… again, maybe I am asking to be disappointed but I really want to see what kind of damage that KVA will do with his tacky little paws this time around. It couldn’t be worse than last season – surely?!
Of course looking forward to a bunch of the usual suspects: Branquinho, Vibskov, Raf, Ann D., etc, etc. It’s not long now until it will be upon us… who are you looking forward to?
Another season, another amazing collection from Ms. Yamamoto. I was so pleased to see a lighthearted but conceptual and beautifully done collection from her this spring. The show seemed to be a good summary of her career thus far, yet not retrospective as she brought in many new elements and concepts in addition. There was a significant amount of color, from bright reds and blues, to bold pastels; great accentual pieces amongst the monochromatic scheme of the majority of the collection. She has a knack for constructing over sized garments with such a thoughtful – but not overt – amount of detailing so that they’re still very feminine; they always fall nicely on the frame and avoid looking boxy or masculine. Her clothes are not for the faint of heart, but in the same token are so well thought out and comfortable to wear. Her garments are often really dynamic and multifunctional as many of them include very large pockets, which could hypothetically replace a handbag for many women.
Limi’s styling is beyond refreshing amongst so many other designers who have the same boring, traditional visions of how a woman should look and how she should be clad. I like that not only does she challenge conventional views of sensuality but she also lifts many of the stereotypes and presents her girl in a more playful and nontraditional way. Another great thing is that she casts wonderful models; different heights, different ages and different builds. These women wear her clothes, the clothes are not wearing them. I think this makes a large statement… that her clothes have the ability to speak for themselves, but through the wearer’s voice.
The models wore headphones constructed of faux braided hair, a la Princess Leia, and were seemingly functional as they were plugged into iPods. As usual, she had great androgynous footwear and accessories, such as black-soled boots in a variety of colors, as well as neck ties and suspenders.
Bernhard Willhelm killed it once again with his newest collection. It was a bit understated compared to what I was anticipating but, of course, it’s so gorgeous and amazingly well done. I guess it makes sense that during a season when so many designers – from lesser known to some of the biggest design houses – are having their way with vibrant colors, patterns and silhouettes, that the master tones his aesthetic down a bit… meanwhile further perfecting the things that he’s known best for. The outstanding shapes and silhouettes were there in full effect, in true Willhelm form.
Brilliant colors strategically placed and plenty of his infectious hand crafted prints filled the runway, as did an air of maturity. Not to say his aesthetic lacks maturity, but rather the woman he is dressing seemed a bit more refined this season. The clothing is eye catching but perfectly comfortable and has a certain ease about it… a very relaxed feel. The styling was amusing; the models were decked out with Sharpie-esque written words and drawings on their faces and the accessories had a culinary theme. Rarely do I like leggings, but what can I say… he does them right. Also really great thigh high stockings make an appearance as well. Overall, another visual delight from Willhelm.
I am absolutely blown away by this collection and presentation; it’s by far the most magical, all in all, than I have experienced in quite a long time. The room filled with sterile white mannequins donning sterile white clothing, coordinately colored jewelry and footwear. The walls are decorated with massive, mysterious UC photographs and provide a perfectly haunting vibe to the clothing. The collection may be all white but there is certainly no lack of beauty or brilliance. Each garment has mass quantities of thoughtful details to the point where I can barely get over it, it’s all just so lovely. Silhouette-wise it’s also a grand slam; not too fitted and not too loose.
I can’t applaud the presentation enough. Usually I’m not thrilled about showroom presentations to begin with – let alone ones with mannequins – as they usually do a large disservice to the collection, but this one is truly a treat and it all works so well. Honorable mention has to also go to the adorable cycloptic creatures perched on the mannequin’s shoulders… they’re so cute to begin with and the fact that they’re wearing such beautiful jewelry makes them all the more endearing.
There aren’t enough good things to say about this collection. Jun Takahashi is absolutely brilliant and if that fact wasn’t set in stone before, it sure is now.
Although I adore his autumn shows, Yohji’s spring collections always seem to be my very favorite. There was a lot to live up to after last spring’s show and he definitely came through with this one. The black and white color palette always suits his work perfectly as there’s so much brilliance in each piece, that sometimes adding color is almost a distraction from his amazing work. Pale, haunting makeup on the models do all to enhance the great vibe of this show. Light, thin fabrics make the clothes wonderful for warmer weather and do much for the potential of layering.
His flair for asymmetry is always impressive, no matter how many times I see it in his work, it never gets old. He’s got the ability to do it with such class… it never comes close to looking juvenile. The long white dresses are incredible, in theory and in execution; they’re so new, but so Yohji all the same. I don’t even like sunglasses (save for the L’incognitos) but I can’t deny the appeal of these ones he’s used here… they’re really nice in shape and just interesting overall and not to mention they suit his aesthetic perfectly. The belts are also something to be spoken of… whether in an accentual white or in black, they definitely add a subtle but great statement to the looks.
Oh, Mr. Owens, can you do no wrong? At first glance, this collection may appear fairly minimal – well, in comparison to the last few, at least – but there is so much going on. The subtle variation and expansion of different takes on each look via different materials and detailing is really admirable. The details are truly where it’s at… particularly in many of the skirts, which look as if you could endlessly peel the layers away like the petals of a flower.
What has always moved me most about Rick Owens is his idea of beauty… which is, I suppose, that there should be no singular idea of beauty. He breaks down the conventional concepts of how women should look… but not defiantly. Rather, he demonstrates his own unique vision of a woman, and somehow, she couldn’t look more appealing.
His color palette, while not a surprise, never seems to get old. The fabrics he uses always tell a story of their own, as well. They’re full of integrity, potential, strength and luxuriousness. I love how he tweaks his silhouette with each season, but that his unique traits undoubtedly shine through. The presentation is wonderful; veiled heads and veiled feet, and nothing but the garment in between.
Paris… Paris is here!
And Gareth is there! It’s Mr. Pugh’s first venture into the world that is Paris Fashion Week and oh my, what a first impression to make. Pugh, who’s known for his boundary-pushing designs and unmistakable exaggerated silhouettes, absolutely WORKED the first day of PFW. First and foremost, he has proved in a large way that he does indeed have the ability to edit and restrain some of the theatrics, but most important – this collection is still undoubtedly his aesthetic. He’s taken some of the muscle out of the theatrics and put it into the detailing and what a fantastic shift it is. With a somehow robotic, Elizabethan samurai look… the pieces are each a work of art in their own right, yet they’re very thoughtful and actually quite body-conscious and have lovely accentuation. The color pallette is divine, but then again I am always a sucker for white/black/off-white, a la Tao S/S 07. There’s not a bad word I can say about this, in all honesty. If you know Pugh, it’s easy to recognize the work and the thought he put in to this one and I applaud it a great deal.
I just came across this designer recently and had to make an entry about him and his work. The man himself seems really interesting, drawing his inspiration from archeology. From the aesthetic properties to the emotions the process invokes for him, he’s created his S/S 09 line based around this root of inspiration. I really adore the techniques used, the fragmented design and the sort of deconstructed, decaying aspect of it all… it’s well done and I think it gets the point across really well without being completely unwearable. The fabrics he uses are great and I think there is something to be said about the cuts and lines as well.
Better his words, than mine, though… here is what he has to say about this collection:
“I’m really fascinated by the anthropological aspects of archaeology—what the heritage cultures leave behind and how we collect that knowledge through the traces they leave. At some point, all civilizations (even our own) are reduced to cultural fragments. Those that come later are only left with silent partial objects and they have to create the story around them.”
Check more of his stuff out at: grahamtabor.com
