fur fur Fall 2010

Fur fur is always so lovely and so nice to see. Although I personally really liked the presentation from last season, it was obvious that it really put a lot of people off from actually seeing how good her individual pieces are so this season it's great to see them highlighted a bit. As usual, her construction is totally amazing; each piece looks like a dream within itself. The headpieces are so adorable as well and are the icing on the tiered and gathered cake that is the entire collection. Her style is derivative without a doubt but she injects so much uniqueness and consistency within it that it becomes her own type of magic each time.

Comme des Garçons Fall 2010 Paris

It's been said a million times, but Rei is just beyond talented. She is, at this point, so flawless and masterful in her skill and still so whimsical in her approach. For clothes that so many are quick to deem as 'messy' or 'silly', they're really anything but. Her designs and the construction of them are executed with an almost mind-blowing level of expertise and precision; she just is so good at what it is she does. This season, through careful construction and seam placement on such overbearing, voluminous materials, she manages to create such a fluid effect within each piece. The silhouette of each piece is so poetically ambivalent, having a simultaneous effect of protection/comfort and at the same time, such precise definition. As always, I am thrilled to see her tartan print make an appearance and lastly, I am mildly (ok, very) obsessed with the footwear.

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2010 Paris

Another constantly references her own past work, but this season was a full-on assault of early Demeulemeester goodness, and I love it. Undeniably and heavily drenched in a 1990's overtone, the collection is really tough and sexy but incredibly polished on the whole. True to form in the cycle of fashion, some of the elements here are so dated, that seeing them again after such a long absence, makes them look so fresh and appealing all over again. The accessories... just wow. No one can work a rooster feather like Ann (why does that sound dirty?) and the braided harnesses, necklaces and those gloves are infinitely appealing. Overall, I think this is such a successful revamp of early Ann and goes above and beyond with all of the newer elements she's managed to marry it with.

accessories

TAO Fall 2010 Paris

Tao is such a gem, not only within the CdG universe but in her own right entirely. Her style is very derivative, very Japanese but her signature design traits are so distinct that they speak so loudly, making her work instantly recognizable. In this collection, she does an amazing job at showcasing her unique abilities, such as the restrictive gathering, the skewed proportions and the unapologetic clash of colors, patterns and materials. Each piece of hers is so incredibly thoughtful and is a world of interest in and of itself and especially because of that, I am loving the runway styling; the heavy layering and general unusuality of the combinations just reinforce how powerful and fearless her vision is. I have such admiration and respect for her talent and always look forward to seeing what she'll grace us with, and couldn't be more thrilled by all of the beauty she's graced us with this season.

Junya Watanabe Fall 2010 Paris

Highly reminiscent of his Fall 2006 showing, Junya delivers another military-inspired collection, which is packed with one of the things he does best: outerwear. While FW06 was much more aggressive and rougher around the edges, it seems Junya took a much more polished and less amplified approach. The pieces are practical but still embody a ton of interest due to his mind-blowing construction skills and overall detailing. Junya's talent for creating jackets which are simultaneously flattering, appealing and functional is uncanny and it's nice that it's the focal point of this season. In addition to the outerwear, the skirts can't go unmentioned, as the range of shapes and lengths is fantastic. Aside from the furry Ugg boots which are obviously not pictured here, and the Jersey Shore tans, I really enjoy this collection. It's not the most magical or outrageous presentation we've seen from him but there's no denying that the clothing is beautiful and impressive, as always.

Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2010 Paris

Thankfully, this is not in the same vein as his Spring offering, which - and this pains me to say as a Yohji worshipper - was just not amazing. It wasn't BAD, but it was the first season I wouldn't sacrifice a limb to own most of. This season he is definitely back to his old self, without having actually returned to anything too familiar; it's quintessential Yohji... but at the same time has fresh techniques, proportions and the air of simplicity and confidence that we've come to expect from him. The pleating is amazing and I just adore the subtle deconstruction and the asymmetrical ease of it all.

Haider Ackermann Fall 2010 Paris

Haider Ackermann is just good... no bones about it. His vision is so distinct and his technique has evolved into something that can only be described as masterful. Instead of trend-hopping or going through an obvious metamorphosis each season, as I've said about a million times before, I much prefer designers who slowly nurture and progress upon their own special and unique vision and who could be a better example at this point of this than Haider? He is just spot on, from the cuts themselves to the level of intricacy that the collection descends into. I mean, lace effect laser-cut leather? It's just too beautiful for words. Everything here is simply so thoughtful, so impressive and exceeds all expectations without throwing us for a loop. In the end, these are empowering clothes women will want to wear and feel amazing in, which is what it's all about.

I was looking back through some of Richard Serra's sculptures recently and noticed immediately that they reminded me of something I'd seen since the last time I'd looked... the bracelets from Rick Owens S/S 10 collection. They are nearly identical in shape and structure to Serra's works, particularly the one pictured above. I can't be positive that Rick intentionally derived inspiration from Serra but if so, I definitely think he did well at translating and conveying the structures into a wearable medium. And if not, it's an interesting and striking comparison, none the less.

Rick Owens Fall 2010 Paris

My favorite kind of Rick is the old school, pre-Paris Rick, when his work was very raw and unapologetic... so, needless to say, I am loving this collection. It's so fun to see him make a dive back into his old graphic, severe style that gained him so much notoriety initially. This collection's look is so primal; like lemur priestesses, who would also kick your ass in a dark alley. I could do without the tights and some other things but I appreciate them because it reinforces the shameless confidence that the collection gives off as a whole. The fur pieces are nothing short of gorgeous and I really like the effect of the adorned pieces as well... and it pretty much goes without saying that the outerwear he shows here is, always has been and always will be amazing.

Sharon Wauchob Fall 2010 Paris

For some reason I am surprised by this collection, despite the fact that there's nothing relatively new here as far as Sharon is concerned. I guess it just feels really fresh and current, meanwhile tying in all of the sensibilities and distinct talent that she always encompasses. She's really pulled out all the stops, technique-wise, but keeps the collection as a whole very concise and cohesive. The color story is simply beautiful; rich, earthy tones paired with the severe black. The construction on everything is really just impeccable, from the structured outerwear to the intricate workings such as the weaved leather. Overall just a really great collection for the moment, perfectly executed with wit and plenty of integrity.

Dries Van Noten Fall 2010 Paris

While Dries is a master at mixing prints, combining unusual patterns and materials, all the while accomplishing it in such an effortless manner - what I really love is when he strips down to his basics like this, which he hasn't done in quite a few years. Sometimes I feel the busyness of his recent collections really overshadowed the core of what makes him just so good; it's the proportions, the ease, the deceptively simple pieces... all of which are cut to absolute perfection and topped off with the perfect detailing accessories and styling. To say I'd love to own and wear most of this is a total understatement... it's just gorgeous.

Limi Feu Fall 2010 Paris

Definitely one of my favorite collections from Limi since she transitioned to Paris a couple of years back, it is filled with masterful, playful, feminine yet severe and just plain covetable pieces. It's hard to ignore the Ann Demeulemeester influence on many of the looks, even down to the styling and similar hats... perhaps a homage of sorts? I'm not sure the intention, but the result is total perfection. Limi's style is always progressing and adapting but her voice is always so strong no matter the theme she's after. The feminine touch that she breathes into the bold silhouettes she cuts, always strikes such an admirable balance, creating an air of simultaneous severity and ease.

Txell Miras Fall 2010 London

I was happy to learn that Txell showed in London this season as part of a select group of designers and I thought her collection was lovely. It is definitely toned down and much more straightforward than her older work, and while I do miss the geometric overtones and plays on dimension that we have seen from her in the past, this is still obviously a really nice collection with a lot of great pieces, particularly the outerwear which looks fantastic. I love the styling as well here; the proportions are really interesting. Overall, I like it... though it lacks the distinction of her past works but look forward to see what direction she'll be taking in the future.

Antonio Marras Fall 2010 Milan

A journey through textural landscapes, layer upon layer of luxe materials, embellishments and accessories, Marras' collection is definitely a favorite of the season thus far. His work always oozes such a rich sensibility but with so much depth and the right amount of a quirk factor that it is almost impossible not to covet his pieces and to be in awe of the overall styling and presence. The styling is just utter perfection; the contrast of fabrics, silhouettes and accessories are perfect enhancements to a beautiful collection.