Lenny Pier Ramos Fall 2009

I love when a designer can really bring forth a presentation that fully encompasses their point of view and leads you into the world that they envision. Many people are great at making clothing but it’s definitely another talent all together, when you can successfully depict the moods you’re trying to convey, but Antwerp based Lenny Pier Ramos can do just that. Originally from Montréal, Ramos nearly became a film maker and also formerly had a progressive accessory line before making the move abroad to pursue his talent for clothing design, at the prestigious Royal Academy a couple of years ago. He has since successfully culminated his influences and been able to hone them all into one beautifully ominous aesthetic.

Strongly influenced by artists such as sculptor Eduardo Chillida, it is quite wonderful to see how Ramos references and draws from such distinct sources, all the while without portraying it in a literal manner. I’d love to check out his some of stuff in person when I get the chance; the construction of and the textures within his pieces are really intriguing and it looks like he’s using some pretty interesting materials as well.

Architectural Clothes Spring 2010 "Bisector Human"

If you don’t know, now you know… designer Nahum Villasana, that is. This conceptual, complex and very directional design force is just about 23 years old and has an exciting future ahead, to say the least. Villasana is already mastering the art of stacking geometrical forms to create outstanding silhouettes. In a time when so many people seem to be jumping on the all-black train – it is more than refreshing to see someone doing it correctly. The intricate construction and shapes Villasana creates add a sense of immense depth, both literally and figuratively speaking, and thus really sets him apart from other designers.

For more information on this line, please visit the website. As of right now there are no stockists, however you CAN order pieces directly from the designer (and avoid the criminal retail inflation that’s currently plaguing us all, while you’re at it) via his website.

photography by Julio Torres.

Suzuki Takayuki Fall 2009 pt. 2

I know I already made a post about Suzuki Takayuki’s fall collection, however these new pictures certainly warrant a second. I am absolutely in love with Takayuki, which is surely no secret by now but it’s pretty much impossible not to be. These clothes are about as beautiful as they come and each piece is as thoughtful as the next, all the while, each containing such enchanting details. From the garments down to the shoes and all the way to the brooches – everything is absolutely beautiful.

One of my favorite aspects about his clothes are how they’re a dream to wear either alone or layered. While worn on their own, they look so ethereal and dreamy but while layered, the ascending material of each airy garment veritably drips over the next, like layers of wax down the sides of a candle. His unique vision and how he executes it so romantically is so admirable and lucky for us all, he just keeps getting even better each season.

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2009

To make a terrible ‘word to the Y’s’ joke or not? Anyways, I thought this season’s Y’s collection was a beauty, but I guess that’s no surprise. I love that function is such a huge part in this line but that the clothes are always gorgeous even that they never look as though they’re from a ’secondary’ line. Lately I have been obsessing over ankle-length shirtdresses so I am beyond thrilled to see the denim one shown here and can’t wait to get my mitts on it. The proportions this season are so beautiful and beyond what I’ve shown in the image above, there are a lot more slim fitting pieces in the collection as a whole, so a really nice range of pieces overall. The footwear is really nice as well, particularly the boots; the black and white docs are gorgeous.

sacai Spring 2010

Instead of the presentation photos this season, I would really rather show some individual pieces because while Chitose Abe’s overall look is great for sacai – it’s the progress that the construction and detailing has made that is the most admirable thing at this moment, for me anyhow. I have bought some pieces in the past and they’ve been very pretty and also very comfortable but didn’t seem like they’d hold up forever, which is ok since her prices are more than fair. However, in the last year she has really upped the ante; she’s said to have moved to a new atelier and these new creations are beautiful both in theory and in their construction. And although I love how she works with brighter colors in spring – and does impressively well – I think the tones she chose for autumn are perfect here and compliment the techniques she utilizes a great deal. I will definitely be picking up something from this season and I look forward to getting a closer look and feel of the newer pieces overall.

Lina Osterman Fall 2009

This collection has so many gorgeous textures that I barely know which one to comment on first. Ok, I do… it’s the lace. Most times when I see this get used, it’s usually on a horrible body con dress or something to that effect – but how the designer worked with it here is so refreshing. Speaking of the designer, she is Lina Osterman, a former apprentice to artisans Margiela and Laugesen, who has started this second line of her own as a means to work outside of the confines of her Pudel line. And taking advtange of that fact, she is; as I said before this is just a textural treat and is filled to the brim with covetable pieces. I am particularly in love with the dress and knits. The linear detailing on some of the pieces is something special, and the fact that it is black detailing on black fabric, in turn adds quite a bit of depth and additional texture to the pieces. I think the birth of Osterman’s second line to further her creative endeavors has proved to be a great idea and I can’t wait to see what the future holds for her – and to see what she has for us in the future.

stockists: UK - Tokyo / for more info please visit her website.

Komakino Fall 2009

Since founding the label Komakino in 2005, husband and wife duo Fe + Jin have been off to a good start, having already collaborated with Levi’s Korea and putting on a few special presentations to show their collections from the last few seasons in places such as London and Tokyo. This winter’s presentation however, shifted them into a new bracket for me. I find their works this season to be less literal with the political overtones – and more so delving deeper into more complex construction and more durable and diverse materials. The range of pieces this season is great as well; lots of nice outerwear with distinct detailing, as well as some attractive footwear. I particularly enjoy the silhouette and their diligence when it comes to attention to proportion and form – it is an attribute that sets them apart from many of the other brands in the same aesthetic category.

Stockists: Tokyo – Hong Kong – London

please visit their website for more information

Givenchy Fall 2009 Haute Couture

There’s always skepticism surrounding Tisci’s couture collections, but as far as I’m concerned, this one is outstandingly good. I am sure people will nitpick but it is a gorgeous collection and if you’re going to go over the top, this is definitely the way to do it. The heavy gold embellishments are back, yet again – but this time feels new due to his expansive usage of something familiar, creating many new patterns and effects. The clothes all look impeccably constructed, not to mention the designs themselves are to die for. It’s clear there was no stone left unturned this season; everything is so thoughtful and also executed amazingly. From the theme, to the variation in materials, the range of embellishment and detail work, to the presentation, there is so much to admire. bravo Mr. Tisci. :]

Christian Lacroix Fall 2009 Haute Couture

While Lacroix’s future is sadly uncertain, the circumstantial inspiration certainly birthed a gorgeous collection. Though he pretty much wiped out his typically colorful palette for this – it is still inevitably him. And though the reasoning for the black overtone might be a grim one, I’m certainly not complaining for the time being, because I love a bit of darkness with my Lacroix (ok… with my everything). I adore the restrictiveness of it all and how understated yet phenomenal most of the pieces are. I love practical couture because the magic is in the details. The way he works his embellishments here is gorgeous and I really love the lustrous fabrics he used as well. The lack of accessories and humble headwraps on the majority of the looks is perhaps also a reflection of the times, but by the same token, looks stunning. Lacroix certainly made a point this season, as well as some gorgeous clothes… here’s to hoping he’ll be gracing us with many more collections.

Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme Spring 2010

Perhaps one of the most practical and smart, meanwhile undeniably appealing, shows of the season, Yohji’s Spring collection is definitely a great one. Not only because I’m insufferably biased when it comes to the Yamamotos, because that doesn’t always apply to YYPH collections (sometimes I just don’t like them), but because this is a really good Spring collection – especially for a time when we’re all looking to spend our money a little bit more wisely. I like the lack of a runway show and the humble presentation, the practicality and ease of the clothing. Aesthetically speaking, the collection is fantastic in this right as well; lovely silhouettes on overall comfortable looking outfits, comprised of loads of gorgeous basic pieces.